CU & Cooker Radial Advice Please

[leakycap]

First off, im new here. Im an electrical engineer but not an electrician.
I will be working on my own home.
Ive used the forum search which kinda answered most my questions.
However I would still like to post my mental summary here in the hope that I avoid any pitfalls.
or this could be a clasical example to you guys of what not to do;-)

The house is a 1970's Semi.
From new the house would have had a cooker electric supply In the Kitchen, I can see the cover on the wall with disconnected wires behind it. But this wire is disconnected at both ends and on the wrong wall of the kitchen.

Currently we have: a Gas Built in Cooker, Gas Hob, No Extractor Hood.

The CU is plastic BS5486 PT13 CM16. Containing 30mA RCD/80Amp Isolator and 6 MCB's 32 down to 6Amps (all MCB being used, non of which by old cooker cct)
===================================

We are installing a new Kitchen, Non 13 amp socket appliances comprising:
Dishwasher
Extractor Hood
Gas Hob (elec ignition)
Electric Built in Double Oven,Tech Spec sheet advises Fuse Rating 30 Amp, max power 5.7kW

Oven Install:
Run 6mm Sq T+E (Rated at 46Amp Clipped, 38Amp Enclosed) under floorboards and up into new oven tower with new CCU 45Amp with 13Amp Socket mounted into side of oven tower adjacent to worktop.

Dishwasher Install: Wired as a fused spur off the kitchen Ring Main
Extracer Hood Install: Wired as a fused spur off the kitchen Ring Main
Gas Hob Install: Wired as a fused spur off the kitchen Ring Main
Adjust the Kitchen Ring Main MCB to suit load (not sure of best way to calculate this??)

Consumer Unit install: At first I thought i needed a Split Load CU, but I now believe as any part of my wiring may be within 50mm of surface (which I think is the case) all circuits should be 30mA protected.

Does the above sound ok?
Who do I get to test my install once finished?



leakycap

 

[acat]

Havent read through it all because your first stumbling block is the testing an electrician cannot test and certify someone elses work. So the choices open to you are hire an electrician to do the entire job or notify your local authority building control and pay them a fortune they will then sign your work off.


Hope that helps


Chris

 

[pushrod]

With it all being notifiable work you have a problem , as acat says, even though you quite possibly have the skills to do a reasonable job. About the best you can probably do is work closely with an electrician who is with an umbrella scheme such as niceic, napit or elecsa, or one who is on the books with your LABC as a competent person and explain the situation and see if they are prepared to check the install as you do it and then test it and sign it off for you. Otherwise if you notify LABC at the start they will want to have various visits which will probs end up costing all the money you are hoping to save.