Z
zzr-matt
I have read various methods of daisy chaining downlighters and I was wondering which you guys think are the pros and cons of each.
Taking for example a JCC GU10 fitting. It says the terminals are suitable for loop in - loop out and they certainly seem big enough but the manufacturers instructions also state that heat resistant rubber or silicone flex should be used.
The ways of doing this I can see are:
1. 1.5mm2 T+E loop in and out of the fitting directly. But obviously this goes against the manufacturers instructions as there is no heat resistant cable in proximity to the fitting and there is a risk of melted cable.
2. 1.5mm2 T+E loop in and out of an ashley J501 or similar with a stub of Heat Resistant flex to the fitting. Seems like a good plan but introduces even more screw terminals with short stubs of T+E between each box. What were the manufacturers intentions in putting a connector big enough for loop in loop out if this is what is required?
Given that the light output from the downlighters means they normally need to be placed within say 1m of each other is there any reason you couldn't go with:
3. Ashley J501 as a junction box for the switch and incomming supply with the output to the first downlighter in 1.0mm2 heat resistant flex and then daisy chain all the fittings together with more 1.0mm2 heat resistant flex?
Taking for example a JCC GU10 fitting. It says the terminals are suitable for loop in - loop out and they certainly seem big enough but the manufacturers instructions also state that heat resistant rubber or silicone flex should be used.
The ways of doing this I can see are:
1. 1.5mm2 T+E loop in and out of the fitting directly. But obviously this goes against the manufacturers instructions as there is no heat resistant cable in proximity to the fitting and there is a risk of melted cable.
2. 1.5mm2 T+E loop in and out of an ashley J501 or similar with a stub of Heat Resistant flex to the fitting. Seems like a good plan but introduces even more screw terminals with short stubs of T+E between each box. What were the manufacturers intentions in putting a connector big enough for loop in loop out if this is what is required?
Given that the light output from the downlighters means they normally need to be placed within say 1m of each other is there any reason you couldn't go with:
3. Ashley J501 as a junction box for the switch and incomming supply with the output to the first downlighter in 1.0mm2 heat resistant flex and then daisy chain all the fittings together with more 1.0mm2 heat resistant flex?
