DIY Motor Switch Wiring

[Icurnvs]

Hello! I'm trying to replace a reversible AC boat lift motor switch with a wireless relay switch. The current switch has 6 wire connections and the wireless switch only has 5. Can somebody help me with wiring the wireless relay correctly. The drum switch is the original working setup and the white box is the new wireless relay. Thanks for any help!

 

[Icurnvs]

Of course! After thinking about it, that would have everything shorting out. New plan with bare minimum two 3-pole contactors (pictured below):

Forward contactor:
Hot -> L1
Hot -> L2
Neutral & 3 (White) -> L3
T1 -> 1 (Red)
T2 -> 2 (Orange)
T3 -> 4 (Black)

Reverse contactor:
Hot -> L1
Hot -> L2
Neutral & 3 (White) -> L3
T1 -> 1 (Red)
T2 -> 4 (Black)
T3 -> 2 (Orange)

3 (White) stays permanently connected to the Neutral power source. 2 & 4 (Orange & Black) get swapped between Hot and Neutral.

If I can get my hands on a 4-Pole Contactor, I'll move 3 white to T4 and another Neutral to L4

Is this a scenario that should work? It's tough for me to visualize all the connections and I get lost in my diagram scribbles ?

Thanks again for the help!

 

[Icurnvs]

Well, this is what I came up with. The wireless control box activates the coil on one of the contactors chosen by which direction is called for on the remote. Hot and Neutral get swapped for the start winding depending on which contactor gets activated. Thank you all for the help!

 

[marconi]

please tell us how well this works in practice, we like to know about outcomes.

 

[Lucien Nunes]

Yes that looks as though it would work, although I also think it looks unfinished without the interlock. Don't forget to add whatever manual and emergency switching is required at the winch location. Consider the situation that the radio receiver goes nuts and starts randomly winding the thing up or down, or goes dead and you get stuck halfway up. I would like a 'local / remote' changeover switch to select either the receiver outputs or manual up and down buttons, an an emergency stop that cuts all control power. Again, up to you to comply with safety codes on that.

Not sure what tool you are using to crimp those 0.25" receptacles but visually the results seem a little variable. The crimp placement seems inconsistent and it is not putting the strain relief crimp around the insulation. FWIW It should be impossible to move or pull the conductor out of the terminal without destroying either the wire or the terminal.