DIY Question - Is this SWA? or Hi-Tuff

[KeenPensioner]

My sister has a cable feeding an outside boiler (see image). I want to tidy it up by adding a new piece of cable as shown. I can't see any ends of the existing cable to determine whether it's SWA or Hi-tuff. Is there any way of determing whether this cable is swa?

 

[littlespark]

doesnt look big enough to be SWA or hituff....

Can we get a close up photograph of the cable showing a couple of those clips?

Actually.... if it used to be clipped all the way, then it might be long enough as it is...

 

[ipf]

Check for any written details on the outer sheath.
If you want to replace it you'll have to trace to remove it.

As above, can it not be re routed?

 

[KeenPensioner]

doesnt look big enough to be SWA or hituff....

Can we get a close up photograph of the cable showing a couple of those clips?

Actually.... if it used to be clipped all the way, then it might be long enough as it is...

Thanks for getting back to me. The cable certainly feels like swa or hi tuff. The cable goes into the loft and is black there - it's been painted white outside. It presumably goes back to the wiring centre fot the central heating but I'm not going in there!! It's not clipped at all outside. I've measured it and it's not long enought to be neatened to a vertical drop. I can access the loft - will the cable be marked to identify it in any way? Is there a detector that would pick up the steel?

 

[littlespark]

ah ok... so the clipped cable is going to the light fitting there?

I would think SWA is thicker overall diameter for the same size and and number of cores than hituff... Any way of measuring?

Will it just be a L,N,E feed cable, or possibly a multicore carrying signals from thermostats etc?

edit: Can you see how the cable terminated into the boiler there? You don't need to take any covers off, just see if there's a gland.
SWA will have a shroud with a brass gland below. Hituff will just likely be a normal compression gland.

 

[ferg]

It should be 4c.
SL-L-N-E
Sometimes 5c if the valves are jammed into the boiler.
There might be an unpainted section of the cable after it enters the boiler.
You should be able to see it if you take the door off the boiler, there is a turnkey handle at the base of it.

 

[pc1966]

Is there any way of determing whether this cable is swa?

If it is magnetic to any degree it is SWA with the steel armour.

Hi-Tuf and similar only have copper & plastic that is not ferromagnetic.

 

[pc1966]

Also to add the bend radius on the bit coming out of the wall is not looking too good, it should be around 8 * diameter and that is rarely sharper than a 5" drain pipe.

 

[davesparks]

Is there a detector that would pick up the steel?

Yes, a magnet

 

[ferg]

Also to add the bend radius on the bit coming out of the wall is not looking too good, it should be around 8 * diameter and that is rarely sharper than a 5" drain pipe.

In that type of house the cable is sometimes fed from the attic following the roofline as the walls can be problematic to get through.
Sometimes >2ft thick stone with the middle being rubble filled.
Path of least resistance.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Take the cover off the boiler and have a look, then get some more cable the same, a waterproof junction box and stuffing glands to put under the eaves and join the new to the old with appropriate joints (Wagos etc), don't forget to take a picture of the old cable fixings before you undo them.

 

[KeenPensioner]

ah ok... so the clipped cable is going to the light fitting there?

I would think SWA is thicker overall diameter for the same size and and number of cores than hituff... Any way of measuring?

Will it just be a L,N,E feed cable, or possibly a multicore carrying signals from thermostats etc?

edit: Can you see how the cable terminated into the boiler there? You don't need to take any covers off, just see if there's a gland.
SWA will have a shroud with a brass gland below. Hituff will just likely be a normal compression gland.

Yes, you're correct, the clipped cable is to the light. I've had alook at the boiler with the side cover off but the feed cable disappears under the control panel and I can't see how it's terminated - I'm not keen to dismantle the boler to trace the feed cable. The wiring diagram provided says it's just LNE and so does the boiler repair man (I contacted him for advice) so not multi core. I know my limitations and all I wanted to do was cut the existing cable and add a new piece joining them in IP66 Wiska boxes. I suppose I could assume it's SWA and when I cut it, if it's just Hi Tuff then I can just join everything and forget about the swa sheathing as a potential earth etc? Is there no other way to detect whether a cable has a swa sheathing?

 

[KeenPensioner]

Take the cover off the boiler and have a look, then get some more cable the same, a waterproof junction box and stuffing glands to put under the eaves and join the new to the old with appropriate joints (Wagos etc), don't forget to take a picture of the old cable fixings before you undo them.

Thank you for replying. I've taken the cover off but the feed cable disappears behind a control panel and I'm not keen to dismantle the boiler to trace the feed to see how it's terminated - I know my limitations . Thanks again.

 

[KeenPensioner]

It should be 4c.
SL-L-N-E
Sometimes 5c if the valves are jammed into the boiler.
There might be an unpainted section of the cable after it enters the boiler.
You should be able to see it if you take the door off the boiler, there is a turnkey handle at the base of it.

Thanks for getting back to me.

It should be 4c.
SL-L-N-E
Sometimes 5c if the valves are jammed into the boiler.
There might be an unpainted section of the cable after it enters the boiler.
You should be able to see it if you take the door off the boiler, there is a turnkey handle at the base of it.

Thank you for replying. I've taken the cover off but the feed cable disappears behind a control panel and I'm not keen to dismantle the boiler to trace the feed to see how it's terminated - I know my limitations . Thanks again.

 

[KeenPensioner]

Also to add the bend radius on the bit coming out of the wall is not looking too good, it should be around 8 * diameter and that is rarely sharper than a 5" drain pipe.

Thanks for replying. The clipped cable you see is for the outside light. The bend radius of the boiler feed is almost straight (into the loft).