Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views!

[Darkwood]

Right ... Just been nudged to set this up by Paul.M and sounds a good idea following recent threads I've done in the Arms..

Rules....No Offensive material... edit if required before posting as this is the public arena.
Anything to do with the trade or in and around it ...H&S pic's welcome.



I've posted this a few times and this is at a mates house following a kitchen refirb several yrs ago. mg_smile:

 

[123]

Now i'm confused. I've never seen an arbour that will let you attach two hole saws at the same time?

Some do, some don’t. Just depends on the length of the threaded part.

As per post #5904, Starret make something specifically for this, it's called an Oops Arbour. CK also do one. It replaces the pilot bit and means you enlarge a hole by using the original size holesaw as the pilot. Best use I've found for it is changing from the old spring downlights which are 64mm hole to the more modern versions which are anything from 70mm hole and up.

 

[ipf]

As per post #5904, Starret make something specifically for this, it's called an Oops Arbour.

For someone who's crapping themselves having drilled the wrong side holes..?

 

[nicebutdim]

Many ways to do this two as suggested by BrianMoooore above, used both methods, never needed a special arbor to do it, most standard arbours will take two hole saws.

No need for a fancy arbor in this instance, but holesaws aren't used exclusively to cut holes in plasterboard and not all arbors have sufficient thread to accommodate two cutters.

 

[mainline]

Starrett A19 Arbor for A1/A2/A10 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Starrett A19 Arbor for A1/A2/A10 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

www.amazon.co.uk

https://www.amazon.co.uk/C-K-T3216-Hole-Enlarging-Adapter/dp/B0102DVPMQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2UYWZ6K7ZRGJF&keywords=c.k.+t3216&qid=1654993166&sprefix=c.k.+t3216%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-1

I can't see how you can easily start a hole in the centre of a joist, as the inner hole saw protrudes too much. ?

 

[nicebutdim]

I can't see how you can easily start a hole in the centre of a joist, as the inner hole saw protrudes too much. ?

I wouldn't use it in those circumstance, unless the ceiling was of sufficient depth to strart the new hole without cutting into the joist.

To my mind their real value is enlarging holes in sheet metal.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Their real value is enlarging holes in plasterboard for upgraded downlighter's and that is what everyone else is posting about.

 

[pc1966]

Their real value is enlarging holes in plasterboard for upgraded downlighter's and that is what everyone else is posting about.

In my limited experiance the problem are holes that are too big (e.g. old R80 lamp holders) so you can fit smaller LED downlights without getting extra covers, and even those sometimes won't hid the damage of getting the original out if crusted in paint, etc.

 

[Mike Johnson]

TLC have these for just such an occurrence in white, chrome or brass: LEDlite Hole Conversion Plate - White | LEDlite (LTHCP White) - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTHCP.html

Or make a plasterboard cut out to fit and bond it to a cross piece inside the larger hole then make good around the edge, I have done both, but prefer the covers for convenience.

 

[loz2754]

In my limited experiance the problem are holes that are too big (e.g. old R80 lamp holders) so you can fit smaller LED downlights without getting extra covers, and even those sometimes won't hid the damage of getting the original out if crusted in paint, etc.

These are a good option for up to 100mm:

Integral LED 70-100mm Cut Out Evofire IP65 Fire Rated Downlight

For safe, stylish and reliable lighting that's easy to install with a 70-100mm cut-out, this Integral LED EvoFire fire-rated downlight is the perfect choice. The ultra-thin 1mm bezel fits flush against the ceiling for a discreet and attractive finish, while the canless design helps the lamp run...

www.toolstation.com

 

[Baddegg]

Tumble drier, washing machine, dish washer that’ll be ok I’m sure……
Larger cable is feeding a double socket with wm td on and the smaller flex is for the dishwasher…..

 

[mainline]

Sorry don’t understand your question. I was just suggesting cutting an access hole into the plasterboard.

It was related to cutting a hole across a joist, a hole saw is difficult to start the cut without some sort of pilot.

 

[123]

Tumble drier, washing machine, dish washer that’ll be ok I’m sure……
Larger cable is feeding a double socket with wm td on and the smaller flex is for the dishwasher…..

As with shower pullcords, it's always the neutral that fails

 

[brianmoooore]

Cut a hole in a piece of plywood, throw away the circular piece you cut out, then hold the plywood against the ceiling, and use the hole as a guide for the hole saw.

It was related to cutting a hole across a joist, a hole saw is difficult to start the cut without some sort of pilot.

Second quote should be first!

 

[mainline]

This is what I usually do too, where lifting boards in the room above isn't possible/feasible. I find the joists with a magnet, measure 120mm to the side and cut the hole centred there. I cut them all so I can see any cables/pipes, then drill the joists using a dewalt 90deg attachment for the drill.

I'm going to buy a 5 or 6" holesaw for it, as while 4" works, it is just a little on the tight side as you need to get your hand in to apply pressure as you drill the joist.

If you replace the correct p-board circle to it's respective hole, in the correct orientation (mark before cutting), they go back in perfectly. Easifill and then sand, no need for reskimming!

In my experience they never fit perfectly you have to peel at least one layer of the backing off the plaster board otherwise it's proud, ideally you want the infill paper thin below the surface makes it a doddle to skim over.

Orientation of the infill shouldn't matter as they should all be the same, not that it would matter with such small gap tolerances that's going to be filled anyway.

I'm of course assuming that you baton across the hole and screw the infill into that ? If so, then either side of the baton has to be screwed through the ceiling into the baton either side of the hole.

Notching the joist from below is far easier and much quicker, with far less damage to the ceiling.

If using 1mm then the notch is hardly anything.

Drilling the joist is the better job, but far more work.

 

[brianmoooore]

Notch the underside of the joists? Sounds a bit " mind your spurs don't damage the furniture" to me. The only place cables should be passing through joists is through a drilled hole on the neutral axis.