Dot Dab Plaster wall - 35mm box? Plasterer at odds with electrician

[JLeague]

As part of my spec I said that I wanted 35mm back boxes. The walls have been taken back to the brick and will be dot and dabbed with plasterboard and then skim finished.

Electrician said that he can just screw the backbox onto the wall without digging into the brick because onces its dotted and dabbed the wall will come forward 35mm and cover the box.

Plasterer is adamant that is wrong and has said that he will do dot and dab but the wall will not come out as much so the boxes will protude.

 

[Vortigern]

Slightly off topic but how do you wire the ring in this case, horizontally or vertically between sockets?

 

[JLeague]

Just an update. Even though I specced it as 35mm I have decided to go with 25mm back boxes and slim profile face plates / sockets.

I am on a schedule and I need the electrician to finish before the plasterer comes in with his team which I cannot delay as he has secured all the plaster so if I didnt start on the agreed date he would need to be paid for 2 days delay for his whole team - 3 of them.

I am not having any dimmer switches - just standard light fittings and downlights.

 

[UNG]

Like that would make a difference? I'm assuming we're talking about a room here, not a cupboard!

It could make all the difference between a kitchen optimally fitting the space or not. A 3m x 2.5m room would lose just under 0.5m² of floor area, it doesn't sound a lot but in some areas of the country that could be a very expensive 0.5m²

 

[telectrix]

Like that would make a difference? I'm assuming we're talking about a room here, not a cupboard!

no wood left for a cupboard. it's all been used for your studding, and 1 tree less to absorb C02.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Call me old fashioned, but IMO plasterboard should only be used on ceilings, dot and dab was invented to speed up construction no other reason, any muppet can do it, very little skill involved, with hard plaster, cupboards and fittings can be fitted directly to the wall no need for noggins, but it does need skill which seems to be lacking in the building trade these days.
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Like that would make a difference? I'm assuming we're talking about a room here, not a cupboard!

Kitchen units are normally a multiple of 600, 300 & 400 so any reduction of space is at a premium to get all the units in, kitchen planning needs a bit of skill.

 

[nicebutdim]

Call me old fashioned, but IMO plasterboard should only be used on ceilings, dot and dab was invented to speed up construction no other reason,

I've never seen dot and dab used and only became aware of its existence a few years back, from watching youtube videos. I don't think this technique is used in NI at all. It seems a bit mad to take a solid wall and turn it into a hollow wall.

 

[JLeague]

I've never seen dot and dab used and only became aware of its existence a few years back, from watching youtube videos. I don't think this technique is used in NI at all. It seems a bit mad to take a solid wall and turn it into a hollow wall.

I thought one benefit was having a little air gap of 10-15mm helps with insulation a bit like double glazing - but I may be totally wrong!

 

[Mike Johnson]

If I remember correctly the Gypsum White Book says sufficient dab should be put on the wall to fill the void.

 

[Ian1981]

Call me old fashioned, but IMO plasterboard should only be used on ceilings, dot and dab was invented to speed up construction no other reason, any muppet can do it, very little skill involved, with hard plaster, cupboards and fittings can be fitted directly to the wall no need for noggins, but it does need skill which seems to be lacking in the building trade these days.
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Kitchen units are normally a multiple of 600, 300 & 400 so any reduction of space is at a premium to get all the units in, kitchen planning needs a bit of skill.

I’ve never ever seen dot and dab used on ceilings as the plasterboard is fixed to the timbers by screws, dabbing it , it would simply fall down or move.

 

[Mike Johnson]

You don't dot and dap on ceilings, I thought that would be understood and did not need explaining, perhaps you are too young to remember the traditional way of constructing domestic buildings.

 

[Baddegg]

Dot and dab is a quick way to refurb old buildings whose render coat has lost adhesion...used a lot down here on old terrace buildings...never gonna be 35 mm though, cost alone would prevent it, done properly it would finish as per the original inch ish 25 mm render and plaster finish,personally I’d put 35 mm boxes in but sometimes as per the op there’s a tight window.....but don’t forget depending on age of building, you may not even get the 25 mm you need in some areas!

 

[Mike Johnson]

Dot and dab or any type of finish should not be used on top of blown render, it should all be hacked off and then you can hard plaster.

 

[Baddegg]

Dot and dab or any type of finish should not be used on top of blown render, it should all be hacked off and then you can hard plaster.

I assumed that was a given ?

 

[Ian1981]

You don't dot and dap on ceilings, I thought that would be understood and did not need explaining, perhaps you are too young to remember the traditional way of constructing domestic buildings.

Ha I miss read your post , you said plasterboard only.

 

[pirate]

If a kitchen fitter can't trim down a unit to fit the space he's not a "fitter" at all. They are adept at putting in "filler" boards to make up a gap of a few inches, and clearly prefer to do that rather than trim a larger unit to fit.