Downlights..... is this just me ? | Page 2 | on ElectriciansForums

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sythai

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My normal method of installing recessed gu10 downlights is as follows:

first fix
coil up above
draw plan
plasterboard goes straight over the top
cut out holes after boarded - before it's plastered (just in case any issues)

Half way through a job at the mo and the architect and builder seem to think that this is not the done method and are skimming before I get a chence to cut my holes out !! customer hasnt even decided on lights yet so dont even no the cut out size

Wouldnt be so bad if only a few, but I've got 25 to get bang on, no access above, cellotex, urrrggh!! My plan should be ok... but I know what the builders are like at moving cables!!

Any thoughts please:(
 
I keep thinking about buying a snake camera too, I will do one day when I am a bit flush I bet it will be one of these tools that once you have one in the van you probably wont want to go to a job without it.
 
Yeah, I seen a snake can that is USB with ya PC for about £30 odd notes but thought what a hassle pulling out the lap top on site. Don't think that a good idea personally. So yeah a cheap solution. But you know you'd want a proper one. One with some good reach. I too feel that it would be a, I'm glad I have it purchase, but keep buying other things first.

Re; plastering.

Holes are a complete pain if plastering a ceiling, I've done it. I'm down with the screw gang on that but don't see the need for a plug just accurately put a dry lining screw straight in the board ( make sure you draw the words DANGER Do Not Remove Screws ).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
My normal method of installing recessed gu10 downlights is as follows:

first fix
coil up above
draw plan
plasterboard goes straight over the top
cut out holes after boarded - before it's plastered (just in case any issues)

Half way through a job at the mo and the architect and builder seem to think that this is not the done method and are skimming before I get a chence to cut my holes out !! customer hasnt even decided on lights yet so dont even no the cut out size

Wouldnt be so bad if only a few, but I've got 25 to get bang on, no access above, cellotex, urrrggh!! My plan should be ok... but I know what the builders are like at moving cables!!

Any thoughts please:(


i use the exact same method

drill for smallest if unsure(60mm approx)

i widen them later if neccessary by putting one holesaw inside the other(concentric circles)



why would anyone want to drill them after ceiling is skimmed ?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I would sooner drill the holes first, get the dusty jobs over with and its easier to patch in the board before its been skimmed if for some reason you made a bo bo :eek:
 
It's not like the joists are going to move inbetween 1st and 2nd fix is it.
:D
No but your cable definitely can be moved .
Cut holes first, then if a cable is missing you can cut a larger hole ( I cut a 100mm hole) next to your down light hole, find the cable then replace the larger biscuit before the plaster does his job.
60mm holes cut in plasterboard may be a slight nuisance to the plasterers but that's nothing compared to having to find cables moved when insulation goes in and plasterboard is fitted.
 
No but your cable definitely can be moved

Totally agree on that, and just to confirm this poped in before was boarded and already plumber had kindly unclipped one of my lights and moved over by a foot, and replaced with a load of pipe work.... umm that line of lights are going to be nice and straight ! (might see what the Fein is like at cutting copper, or just keep going with my holesaw)
 
Just a quick update if anyone is interested....

Went back to cut out and second fix today, and the painter had also been in a done his bit, great so no pressure to get it all bang on !!

Out of the 25 only had a slight issue with 6 of them, surprise surpise Cellotex - pad saw, rods and a bit of fishing all sorted.

Happy now,

Sy
 

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