Downlights

[Andy78]

I like the look of that product that Lee has put up, is that it job done or does it need to be in some kind of enclosure, also anybody that does not use 1mm t&e on domestic, don't do many occupied rewires, some of the conduits are tiny on older properties.

They have covers that are not shown in that picture. Aye, you can just about get a 1mm twin and three core down the tiny conduits.

 

[Dave OCD]

I'll use 1.5 for things such as bathroom downflow heaters and depending on length of run and other factors it can be useful for storage heater circuits, most sparks seem to use 2.5mm for these whether it's a 0.85, 1.7,2.55 or 3.4kW, bit of a waste of money really ?

 

[davesparks]

I'll use 1.5 for things such as bathroom downflow heaters and depending on length of run and other factors it can be useful for storage heater circuits, most sparks seem to use 2.5mm for these whether it's a 0.85, 1.7,2.55 or 3.4kW, bit of a waste of money really ?

I'm one of those who use 2.5 for all domestic small power circuits. The main reason is that I only keep 1.0 and 2.5 on the van, I would use the 1.5 so rarely that it would just be taking up space unnecessarily.
But if I had a job with a lot of 10A/16A radials I probably would get some 1.5 in for it.

The last time I used 1.5 twin was for some 10A ufh circuits (3x via a contactor for a big room)

 

[Dave OCD]

I'm one of those who use 2.5 for all domestic small power circuits. The main reason is that I only keep 1.0 and 2.5 on the van, I would use the 1.5 so rarely that it would just be taking up space unnecessarily.
But if I had a job with a lot of 10A/16A radials I probably would get some 1.5 in for it.

The last time I used 1.5 twin was for some 10A ufh circuits (3x via a contactor for a big room)

I mostly do the same Dave, 1.5 is quite nice to work with though and I'll get some once in a while.

 

[SJD]

When I do downlights, it's a 1.5mm T+E to the lighting points, then from each point I install 20A 3 pin push junction box with a 1mm flex comming from the juction box to the downlight itself.

I do it like this because I think it looks good. But curiosity got the better of me, how do you guys install downlights? I get fed up of turning up to jobs and seeing two 1.5mm stuffed straight into the horrble connector blocks that come with the downlights. Never really seen any other methods that I can think of the now.

On the other hand, if you're a builder taking care of the electrics as well, you perhaps only carry 2.5mm on the van (well it's good for both lighting and power) ... in which case you probably strip the outer sheaths off, and cram two sets of unenclosed 2.5mm inner cores into the downlight connector block, perhaps taking care not to overtighten the cable clamp and end up crushing/shorting different coloured cores together. See it done this way!

 

[Welchyboy1]

On the other hand, if you're a builder taking care of the electrics as well, you perhaps only carry 2.5mm on the van (well it's good for both lighting and power) ... in which case you probably strip the outer sheaths off, and cram two sets of unenclosed 2.5mm inner cores into the downlight connector block, perhaps taking care not to overtighten the cable clamp and end up crushing/shorting different coloured cores together. See it done this way!

you forgot to mention also 'snip off the earths!' Lol

 

[Risteard]

Can't get 1mm T&E this side of the pond in too many places

Indeed, and it can often be dearer than 1.5mm^2 as it is a special order.

 

[J.Spark]

Yes 1.0mm definitely easier for wiring through conduits especially when you have up to a 6lever switch with strappers for 2way switching etc etc.....as a standard I use 25mm conduit for switches because you end up having to pull in alot of T&E's at certain switch points. Less time wastage on a job....less time more money ☺

 

[andy riva]

We use the click ct202c four pin plugs for our lighting circuits as that are great to work with. The only draw back is they can be hard to connect a three plate at the first light. These are great to remove the fittings for testing or replacement.
Also the cables are secure within the connector with the supplied clamps

hope this helps