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Good Afternoon all,

was after a bit of advice. I have a dual wall socket that doesn't seem to work. It was originally used to power a kettle and toaster but has stopped working over the last week or so. I have tried the kettle and toaster on a different socket and they work fine so have had a friend remove and replace the socket with a new one I bought. Unfortunately the same thing happens. no appliances work in the new socket either. He checked the socket with a screwdriver with a light in it and said the power is coming through but he is unsure why it isn't powering any appliances. he advised to get an electrician in but I have been online trying to find out what it might be. sorry if I haven't explained this really well as I am in no way electrically trained and would struggle to wire a plug.

kind regards in advance
any help or advice greatly appreciated.
 
how can it be a stray current with a short circuit. it would be fault current which could be in the hundreds ao amps for a split second before the OCPD activated.
That's not what I asked. Please explain why current doesn't travel down earth wires. You and the other chap are mocking the very concept. Right? So set me straight. So I understand.
 
That's not what I asked. Please explain why current doesn't travel down earth wires. You and the other chap are mocking the very concept. Right? So set me straight. So I understand.
The OP concerns a socket not working. A short circuit refers to a fault of negligible impedance between live conductors or live conductors and earth. If there was such a fault to an earth wire of course a current would flow, but that current would normally be of sufficient magnitude to operate the protective device, disconnecting the supply, which would be apparent due to a tripped device. That is how a circuit is designed. Some appliances operate with a normal tiny leakage of current to earth, however this would not account for an inoperative socket so is a moot point with regards to the issue that needs to be resolved. From your post which has been deleted along with my reply it was apparent that you are confusing voltage and current, and that your advice on testing for those was seriously flawed and potentially dangerous. I hope the above helps, but please post any questions and I will try and answer without appearing to be 'mocking'
 
The OP concerns a socket not working. A short circuit refers to a fault of negligible impedance between live conductors or live conductors and earth. If there was such a fault to an earth wire of course a current would flow, but that current would normally be of sufficient magnitude to operate the protective device, disconnecting the supply, which would be apparent due to a tripped device. That is how a circuit is designed. Some appliances operate with a normal tiny leakage of current to earth, however this would not account for an inoperative socket so is a moot point with regards to the issue that needs to be resolved. From your post which has been deleted along with my reply it was apparent that you are confusing voltage and current, and that your advice on testing for those was seriously flawed and potentially dangerous. I hope the above helps, but please post any questions and I will try and answer without appearing to be 'mocking'

"If there was such a fault to an earth wire of course a current would flow ... "

Thank you. That's all I want to read from you. And if that situation occurs the current would be detectable on the earth wire using an AC clamp meter as I proposed. A proposal which, it appears, was sufficently aggregious in your opinion for you to mock me and remove my comment altogether. As for teh "return to MCB" mistake all that would require is a nudge and I would have realised my error, acknowledged it and corrected it. There is certainly no justification to post a comment that my comment on here will lead to people being killed.

Here's a situation.

2.5kW grill that was melting sockets and plugs. Metal grill case. The element was new out of the box. But it turned out to be faulty. The heating core was shorting to the outer sheath of the element which was bolted to the metal casing. The current on the live wire was 18 amps. The current on the neutral wire was 14 amps and the current on the earth wire was 4 amps. Measured using an AC clamp meter. There was no RCD to detect the short. Not enough overload to trip the MCB. But enought to melt the 13 amp socket, the plug and the internal terminal block of the grill over a period of two days. A dangerous situation.
 
It has been deleted.
It was deleted because it gave inappropriate advice to an unskilled person. Later posts were removed to prevent it still being visible and another due to an insult of another member. Play nice or this will be ended.
 
"If there was such a fault to an earth wire of course a current would flow ... "

Thank you. That's all I want to read from you. And if that situation occurs the current would be detectable on the earth wire using an AC clamp meter as I proposed. A proposal which, it appears, was sufficently aggregious in your opinion for you to mock me and remove my comment altogether. As for teh "return to MCB" mistake all that would require is a nudge and I would have realised my error, acknowledged it and corrected it. There is certainly no justification to post a comment that my comment on here will lead to people being killed.

Here's a situation.

2.5kW grill that was melting sockets and plugs. Metal grill case. The element was new out of the box. But it turned out to be faulty. The heating core was shorting to the outer sheath of the element which was bolted to the metal casing. The current on the live wire was 18 amps. The current on the neutral wire was 14 amps and the current on the earth wire was 4 amps. Measured using an AC clamp meter. There was no RCD to detect the short. Not enough overload to trip the MCB. But enought to melt the 13 amp socket, the plug and the internal terminal block of the grill over a period of two days. A dangerous situation.
but nota"short circuit" more a fault of finite resistance.
 
" There is certainly no justification to post a comment that my comment on here will lead to people being killed.
My suggestion that your post was potentially dangerous was the result of your advice on using a doctored extension lead as a suitable means of testing sockets, which you have not repeated in subsequent posts, and I stand by my reply. Your suggested method was dangerous and was rightly removed. My reply did not include anything personally insulting, but I completely accept the reasons given as to why it was deleted, the correct procedure was to report it, not reply.
Enough said, I'm out of this one.
 

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