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I always wondered why the North had such high sales of rubber gloves.

I guess we know why now?

And no Geordie its not a form of Protection against STD's
 
Don't forget when a neutral breaks on a connected load the neutral becomes live, for instance in a domestic situation a lighting circuit will have a nasty suprise waiting for you if you touch a neutral where lamps and ballasts are connected to a live circuit, the neutral needs to be a solid link, and again in 3 phase kit a hung neutral would potentially be able to put 400 volts across a 230 volt circuit if it is connected to a single way in a 3 phase board.
 
Don't forget when a neutral breaks on a connected load the neutral becomes live, for instance in a domestic situation a lighting circuit will have a nasty suprise waiting for you if you touch a neutral where lamps and ballasts are connected to a live circuit, the neutral needs to be a solid link, and again in 3 phase kit a hung neutral would potentially be able to put 400 volts across a 230 volt circuit if it is connected to a single way in a 3 phase board.


Aye ..... but the question is WHY did we used to stick a fuse in the neutral and now we don't??

You're just dodging the question cos you don't know either aren't you? :grin:

Anyway, how ya doin in the land of MDF?? :)
 
Aye ..... but the question is WHY did we used to stick a fuse in the neutral and now we don't??

You're just dodging the question cos you don't know either aren't you? :grin:

Anyway, how ya doin in the land of MDF?? :)
We used to previous to 1955-1960 ish when it was deemed only DC kit allowed at that time to safely be able to have a neutral fused due to the fact the DC system didn't get touched by ordinary electricians it was acceptable in DC systems, the AC systems were deemed to be too dangerous due to potential electric shock after 1960 ish, why they felt pre 1955ish to 1960 was acceptable we won't know, we will need E54 and Tony to answer that last bit, and I am fine fella, a bit tired from sitting in the sun watching the song birds feeding at my bird table but fine cheers :grin:
 
'What might seem a stupid answer but I think I recall that some of the early cables weren't colored for identification i.e, red and black seem to recall being told that way back when I were a lad, so they used dp fusing just to be sure, told you it was a daft answer
 
cause the b5wws back then didn't have the wherewithal to identify the line conductor
 
I believe the neutral fusing, was down to pre war DC...were the incoming was +200v earth at ov and -200v....when dc was being phased out in the 50`s, The big boffins still decided AC was still a -240v ov +240v over its wave cycle, and required the neutral to remain fused. This was the explanation I got years ago...weather true...well before my time.
 
I believe the neutral fusing, was down to pre war DC...were the incoming was +200v earth at ov and -200v....when dc was being phased out in the 50`s, The big boffins still decided AC was still a -240v ov +240v over its wave cycle, and required the neutral to remain fused. This was the explanation I got years ago...weather true...well before my time.

Back in 1947 the now British Standard (BS 1363) 13A plug and socket were introduced. These have ALWAYS had a fuse in the live only connection at both the consumer (fuse) board and in the plug. They also have shutters to prevent anything entering the socket except a plug!

The reason for only the live fuse is that back at the sub station, neutral is strapped to earth. Even on a high current path, this is no more than a few volts above earth, and is therefore safe. Blowing the fuse removes all dangerous voltages from the equipment. a fuse in the neutral, on the other hand, would leave the appliance with a lethal 240v RMS AC on all working parts.

Also note that the "Shaver socket" actually removes the neutral strap to make it safer in bathrooms and the like. Touching just one conductor will make that the floating connection and the other pin will have the dangerous 240v. It is also fused at just 1A.
 

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