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it is allowed. just not good practice as it's eventually damaged by UV.

After about 200years maybe. i've IR'd t+e thats 50year old and still had a respectable reading.

I understand what you're saying though, it does eventually de-grade. However, sparks these days seem to have got into ITS ILLEGAL mode, which it isn't. Installed correctly, without any kinks t+e is sturdier than you think.

Just to point out, i always use flex outside...only for cosmetic reasons though really.
 
i've got 1 tomorrow, but already have been informed that there's no main bonding. he's happy to pay for that to be done before i do the eicr. now, i've not seen the place yet, but am informed that it's a terraced with CU at front door and water intake in back kitchen, with laminate floors up and down. YUK. going by the "as close as practicable to the point of entry", how close is practical? if there's no route without damaging the flooring, how far do you go to comply? i know what i'd like to do, but would appreciate any other viewpoints.
This is a bit of a mess of a situation, as main bonding often is. Three possibilities occur to me, run the cable through the house on the surface along the skirting or such, can be easily painted over but will look bad, run the cable up the outside wall into the loft across the loft down the rear outside wall and onto the water, run the cable up the house into the loft and bond to the main water pipe on the cold water tank.
None of which are ideal or particularly sensible.
Last one is look next door and if they have main bonding to water put a 10mm fromtheir CU to yours and at the back link their water to yours:innocent:, sorted!
 
i've got 1 tomorrow, but already have been informed that there's no main bonding. he's happy to pay for that to be done before i do the eicr. now, i've not seen the place yet, but am informed that it's a terraced with CU at front door and water intake in back kitchen, with laminate floors up and down. YUK. going by the "as close as practicable to the point of entry", how close is practical? if there's no route without damaging the flooring, how far do you go to comply? i know what i'd like to do, but would appreciate any other viewpoints.
Had board change in 80's house customer wanted no floor boards lifting nearest pratical place to bond gas was in loft space of garage where feed to boiler was but not easily accessible so had to run bond up through bedroom through main loft out into 20mm pvc conduit to gas meter cabinet
long run but under recomended 0.05 ohm. It was tncs but when checked size of old main bonding it wasn't 6mm but 4 amd would of meant extending it anyway. Did same with water but ran in conduit out if garage round kitchen through wall to water. All because customer didn't want floor boards lifting !!!
 
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I'll throw my hat in the ring on this one.

You are the man on the ground, so only you can make a sound judgement, so i won't agree/disagree with anything you have written.

This is what GN3 says about it.

C1, Danger present now. These must be brought to the attention of the responsible person/user/client etc immediately, and isolation and/or rectification is the be RECOMMENDED without delay.

C2, Is not dangerous at the present time, but if left unattended, it will become a C1 sooner rather than later, and rectification is advised ASAP.

C3, This is only to be used where improvement is advised or recommended.

C1 or C2, cannot and should not be used just because the installation does not meet the current version of BS7671.

The example i use is RCD's. If the install has no RCD's, and it wasn't a requirement at the time the install was first commissioned, then there is no obligation to fit them now. If the installation met the standards required when it was first installed, it was safe then, and if the only thing wrong with it now, is that it doesn't comply with current regs, then there is nothing wrong with it, and it remains safe for continued use. You can only ADVISE improvement for things like installation of RCD's and use the code C3.

It is well explained in both BS7671, and GN3. You can't force change or opinions onto people. I am not trying to imply that you or anyone else is trying to do this, but when using these codings, they need to be fully understood, as we are giving an expert engineering view of the installation, so we need to adopt giving expert advice to keep the trade professional.

Cheers………….Howard

I do agree with this, I think he RCD issue is something that's always going to be up for debate. I generally feel pretty happy about my codings but there will be the odd thing that throws a spanner in the works.

There always going to be an element of user interpretation, so long as the more real dangers C1 are noted, that's more important than saying you have no RCD on your hedge trimmer, but equally all results hold be recorded with as higher degree of accuracy as possible with the knowledge and understanding available to the person doing the inspection.
 
Can't one of you very experienced electricians here, publish a comprehensive of example of code infractions?? It seems that the majority of threads on this forum relate to ''What code for this and what code for that'' Obviously the official type code guides, are woefully inadequate or anywhere near comprehensive enough.
Sometimes i wonder if those conducting these EICR's should actually be taking this sort of work on.
 
Can't one of you very experienced electricians here, publish a comprehensive of example of code infractions?? It seems that the majority of threads on this forum relate to ''What code for this and what code for that'' Obviously the official type code guides, are woefully inadequate or anywhere near comprehensive enough.
Sometimes i wonder if those conducting these EICR's should actually be taking this sort of work on.

That's a good idea, there could be a book with every possible situation in and what code to give it, that way it would be clean cut and no argument as it says it in the book, ideally some kind of official book.
 
How is this one possible, surely if they are "dead shorts" the protective devices have operated. Is it possible loads have been left connected?
Very good point, to add if it is a dead short then the circuit cannot be energised surely so how can it be a fire hazard lol
 
Well, the house was not that big and I went through very room and fitting, nothing was plugged in at all, no loads anywhere...

Any ideas then? It was giving me 0.00 on IR between phase and neutral on three of the circuits. Honestly, there was nothing connected at all, no bathroom fans or humidity things, no appliances on anywhere...

- - - Updated - - -

I accept what you are saying, but if there were no loads, can you explain it?
 

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