electrical installation on a floating dwelling

[Andy78]

I really need some help in a project I have become involved in wiring a lived on boat. It's something I have not done before or anything remotely similar so I'm well out of my comfort and confidence zone.
I'm really struggling finding a definite guide as to the correct regulations I need to be following or even any best practice guides. If anyone can offer any experienced advice in this field I would be most grateful, even a finger pointing in the right direction would be great.
I'll refrain from posting detailed info about the job until an experienced mind pops along as it might be a bit much.

 

[haptism]

I would recommend hooking up a sacrificial (galvanic) annode to the hull if its steel and submerged, it prevents the hull from rusting. Its like the same principle as derusting stuff with electrolysis. Alot of boats in the water with electric running through can make the water more corrosive. Think of the boat without a galvanic annode like, i dunno, a car with a badly rusted whhel arch, !

 

[Andy78]

are they gardiner diesels. about 10l each?

Not sure really, but can try and find out next week.

EDIT: Just found out, they are Leyland AJ6 engines

 

[telectrix]

if they are the LXB as on a bus, they're a belting engine.i had 1 on a double decker bus converted to live in. started 1st time after standing 2 years. don't forget. on a boat you run them on red diesel. less than half the price. in summer they will run on chip oil,

 

[Andy78]

if they are the LXB as on a bus, they're a belting engine.i had 1 on a double decker bus converted to live in. started 1st time after standing 2 years. don't forget. on a boat you run them on red diesel. less than half the price. in summer they will run on chip oil,

Here they are.

 

[pirate]

Nice enough, but not real Gardners!

Also, factor in some windpower chargers for the batteries...they ain't pretty, but they do work!

 

[pirate]

and you still have to pay tax on red diesel...you only get a tax break if the fuel is for heating/cooking, typically 10 or 20 percent, if you are lucky...unless it is a commercial vessel.

 

[pirate]

 

[davesparks]

I've just started exploring this world myself as my new girlfriend owns and lives on a narrowboat.

 

[buzzlightyear]

I've just started exploring this world myself as my new boyfriend owns and lives on a. Banana boat

 

[happysteve]

BS EN 10133 is what you need for the 12V (or 24V) DC side of things, and BS EN 13297 for the 230V bits. I'll try to summarise the main bits of the former.

Blue Sea Systems do good quality panels and switchgear (at least, their DC stuff is good, don't know about their AC stuff). I upgraded the wiring on the last boat I owned.

I lived on narrowboats (prior to getting the Zeeschouw) for about 10 years.

Some random bits from BS EN 10133 (that's different from BS7671):

- hull can be grounded (usually is, at the engine) but obviously you can't use the hull as a conductor. Only grounding the negative conductor in this way is permitted.

- 10% voltage drop permitted, however, some circuits will "typically require" 3% or less: panel boards, nav lights, bilge blowers, bilge pumps, other equipment where specified by manufacturer

- batteries shouldn't be able to move more than 10mm (horizontally or vertically). You need to supply leaking electrolyte containment for tilts up to 45 deg.

- need a battery-disconnector switch on positive conductor, easily reachable, as close as practicable to the batteries (exceptions for things like solar panels, bilge pumps etc as long as they have a protective device close to the battery).

- flexible or stranded insulated conductors, fire-retardant material, e.g. not supporting combustion in absence of flames

- conductors in engine room at least 70C and rated oil resistant, or protected by insulating conduit or sleeving

- minimum support distance 450mm, or 300mm on cable to battery switch.

- minimum size for singles = 1mm, for multi-core flex 0.75mm (except for panel boards, where 0.75mm singles can be used)

- not in same containment as AC wiring. If not separated by partition etc, then minimum distance in free space = 100mm

- DC negative conductors should be black, or yellow (unless you're using black in AC, in which case, use yellow). Black or yellow must not be used for DC positive. Avoid use of brown, white or light blue in DC system, if AC is present on boat.

- terminate appropriately, e.g. "no bare wires to stud or screw connections"

- socket outlets should not be interchangeable AC and DC

The usual restrictions about IP ratings etc apply.

In practice, invest in lots of flexible PVC conduit. Run your DC singles through it (generally red and black), and (generally) AC flex through it (separate ones, obviously) too, for getting it around the boat.

Hope that's helpful

 

[Andy78]

Hope that's helpful

Difficult to think how you could be more helpful. That's an amazing glut of info to chew through. Thanks ever so much Steve.

I had already stocked up on flex and flexible conduit so good to know I was thinking along the right sort of lines.

 

[Jjc]

Careful when installing the earth rod.

What length cable required?

 

[davesparks]

Pay careful attention to volt drop, it stacks up pretty quick at low voltages.

12V or 24V fridges are available so you don't necessarily need to run that from an inverter.

 

[Santa]

Better to fit a fridge that runs on propane; water heating too. Save the batteries for stuff that only runs on electric (no gas TVs sadly).

 

[Andy78]

Pay careful attention to volt drop, it stacks up pretty quick at low voltages.

12V or 24V fridges are available so you don't necessarily need to run that from an inverter.

Yep I'll watch the VD for any 12V stuff, nice large cables.

Good shout about the fridge, forgot about those but have seen them before for camper vans etc. I will need to supply some 230V sockets though for other stuff.