Extending cooker electric regulations

[sherry]

Hi
I am seeking help and best practices to achieve below tasks. I am not across regulations hence will appreciate best approach to achieve below without violating regulations.

Below is layout of the way electric cable is for cooker.
I have two tasks to action here.
1) install cooker hood.
2) move cooker switch (current position ) to new position.

To install cooker I have to move spur socket to right.

The second task is to move cooker socket from its current position which is above the gas hob to the left side (300m away from gas hob (hot zone).

It is not feasible to install new cable, which would be ideal. I may end up having joints. This means to extend both cables to left (cooker new position) and join them at cooker current position. Leave the joint inside the back box and plaster it.
My questions will be
1) Is this alright as per regulations?
2) crimps are sufficient or I can use terminal/JB inside the back box?
Any other suggestions please let me know.

Thanks
View attachment 108658

 

[littlespark]

You cannot joint and plaster over. Even with maintenance free joint, it needs to be in an enclosure, and best left accessible.

Do you know if the cables come up from floor or down from ceiling?

From there, do they run to the left or right?

Rather than jointing the cable, pull it out and reroute, if you can.

 

[sherry]

You cannot joint and plaster over. Even with maintenance free joint, it needs to be in an enclosure, and best left accessible.

Do you know if the cables come up from floor or down from ceiling?

From there, do they run to the left or right?

Rather than jointing the cable, pull it out and reroute, if you can.

One wire is coming down from ceiling which terminates to cooker (current switch) and from there another cable is going down to the socket (under the cabinet). Unfortunately they are under plaster without any housing so hard to pull out.
The other two cables going to left from (current position socket) to new position socket is what I am trying to achieve and these cables need to be run yet, that will include chisel and making socket on the left side.

 

[SJD]

To add to the above, assuming the cables come down from above, it is really that hard to re-route directly down to the new cooker isolator postion? If the wall is solid then the cupboard can be removed, and will hide most of the chasing when it is replaced.

 

[sherry]

Thank you guys, I realise may be my early drawing is mis leading. I am sharing here two drawings namely kitchen_layout_1, which is the current single wire coming direct from fuse box to the cooker switch and from their to socket.
Whereas the other file kitchen_layout_2 is something I am trying to achieve. I am thinking to move this cooker (switch) to the left and put two new cables ( as shown in blue ) and join them in the old box and plaster them.
There is not enough length that I could re-route and running a new cable from fuse box would be impossible.

 

[Markyd]

You cannot do a joint in the old box and plaster over it...you could do a join and put a blankplate on it....How are you going to do a R1 R2 test, IR test,ZS and rcd test...Have you tested existing cable and what size is it......GET A SPARKY

 

[bennie]

If your not prepared to lift the floorboards above to reroute the cable then your going to have to chase the wall out high level so you have enough length on the cable to be able to make connections in a surface box then you can join the cable at this point. From there you can chase the wall out or run trunking against the ceiling then down to the new switch. Don't run the cable just above the hob unless your going to chase the cable in nice and deep, I've seen fires caused where the cable was not deep enough. Or you could get an electrician round to go through your best options. Not always easy to give an answer from a drawing.

 

[sherry]

You cannot do a joint in the old box and plaster over it...you could do a join and put a blankplate on it....How are you going to do a R1 R2 test, IR test,ZS and rcd test...Have you tested existing cable and what size is it......GET A SPARKY

Right now there is Type A RCD 32A from box the T&E wire is coming to this switch (Cooker) and from switch to turn off and on the oven is is connected to socket. I think I mentioned above the wire is 6mm.
I am changing the position of switch from above the hob to the left ( roughly 70 cm to the left where it is now ).
I understand the best practice would be to have new cable but that is not possible. If I add joint using may be crimp or soldering have to be certain that it can sustain 32amp. What was bugging me more is to leave face plate ( as this will ruin the kitchen but worst case scenario if to meet regulations one needs to do it then have to do it.
Any suggestions?

 

[sherry]

If your not prepared to lift the floorboards above to reroute the cable then your going to have to chase the wall out high level so you have enough length on the cable to be able to make connections in a surface box then you can join the cable at this point. From there you can chase the wall out or run trunking against the ceiling then down to the new switch. Don't run the cable just above the hob unless your going to chase the cable in nice and deep, I've seen fires caused where the cable was not deep enough. Or you could get an electrician round to go through your best options. Not always easy to give an answer from a drawing.

Thanks Bennie, due to bathroom floor tiled it may be difficult to do something. I may try to see if I can reach from landing area, if I can I will re-run new cable from Fuse box all the way to new position.
I have chisel the spur area and I can see this 6mm cable going down to the cooker switch.
Can I install surface box next to spur (Switch) and run cables from there? is that do able?

 

[bennie]

Thanks Bennie, due to bathroom floor tiled it may be difficult to do something. I may try to see if I can reach from landing area, if I can I will re-run new cable from Fuse box all the way to new position.
I have chisel the spur area and I can see this 6mm cable going down to the cooker switch.
Can I install surface box next to spur (Switch) and run cables from there? is that do able?

Yes that would be fine, it just so the connections are accessible. I'd still ru the new length of cable as high as possible so you don't need to worry when fixing the brackets for the cupboards or cooker hood.

 

[sherry]

Yes that would be fine, it just so the connections are accessible. I'd still ru the new length of cable as high as possible so you don't need to worry when fixing the brackets for the cupboards or cooker hood.

I will try to see if I can run new cable from MCB.
I have attached a layout to verify with you if this is more practical approach.

If I am unable to run new cable from MCB to new location of switch in that I case I should be able to add surface box next to spur switch. terminate (RED) wire from MCB into surface box. Run new wire (GREEN) from surface box to cooker switch.
Here comes the second challenge, should I run new wire (ORANGE) inside trunk down to the socket below kithen worktop and behind cabinet? as I don't think chisel the wall horizontally from old switch to new switch and layout (bLUE) wire by again using some sort joint ( which we are strictly trying to avoid)
So to connect cooker switch to socket I will see if I can chisel and run through that way. Otherwise is it safe to run (ORange cable inside trunk? or it has to be inside the wall? ( I am verifying this for regulations to be sure ).


Thanks for you hep and valuable time.

 

[bennie]

I would run a new cable from the cooker switch down behind the cabinet to the outlet.