External connections to a generator on an offroad truck. What cable to use?

[Mark42]

I’m currently converting a Mercedes Unimog into a camper.

The camper body will be supplied with 230V for charging the on-board batteries, and/or running the aircon, which is too much for 24V inverter power.

I’ve chassis-mounted a 3kVA generator, made cheaply by reverse-engineering a portable site generator, fitting it in a chassis box (rear LHS), then duplicating the starter and other controls in the cab and the camper. There’s a changeover switch in the cab to select either generator or ‘shore’ power.

I though this part of the work was finished until I remembered that the 2.5mm SY I’ve used for distributing the mains power is not rated for outdoor use. Oh dear.

So what to use instead? I liked the idea of SY as the braid gives a bit or protection, and it’s very visible for inspection.

What are the alternatives? It needs to be flex as it runs along and between a chassis and sub-frame which flexes, and up into the cab which tilts for servicing. NYY is no good as it’s solid-core.

I can only think of rubber HO7, or blue arctic. Neither of these have much mechanical protection, which, considering the conditions the vehicle will occasionally be used in, is not ideal.

I could fit it in flexible conduit but space in the loom is already a bit tight, and that would also render it invisible for inspection.

Or is SY maybe OK? It’s not like it will be sitting in brilliant sunshine (UV) for years. It’s shaded underneath the chassis area.

What would you do?

 

[HandySparks]

I'd go for the rubber cable, with flexible conduit for mechanical protection where required. Remember that you can get flexible conduit in a huge range of sizes, not just 20mm, 25mm, etc.

 

[Richard Burns]

I would use H07RNF cable, the rubber is pretty thick on this cable and they are designed to be used in rough service, though not against metal edges.
If you wanted I suppose you could put a stainless steel braid over the cable, but you would probably need to earth it as an exposed conductive part.

 

[dmxtothemax]

I would use "DLO" cable
DLO-Diesel Locomotive Cable - http://www.southwire.com/products/DLODieselLocomotiveCableoem.htm
or your equivilent of it ?

 

[PEG]

Hi,H07RNF is more than adequate,if protected where necessary,with flexible conduit or braid.

I would re-position the 16A outlet,as it will have water driven into it,and is 90 degrees out of self draining

Love the Unimog,i have mounted cranes and MEWP's on some larger versions,and up until recently,did mods and maintenance on one which has been owned and used by NG since 1971!

I take it they aint just bobbing to the Cotswolds for a weekend...

 

[DPG]

That's some camper van that! Should have no trouble with muddy campsites Fuel economy may be a bit poor though :-( Daz

 

[sunray]

I’m currently converting a Mercedes Unimog into a camper.

The camper body will be supplied with 230V for charging the on-board batteries, and/or running the aircon, which is too much for 24V inverter power.

I’ve chassis-mounted a 3kVA generator, made cheaply by reverse-engineering a portable site generator, fitting it in a chassis box (rear LHS), then duplicating the starter and other controls in the cab and the camper. There’s a changeover switch in the cab to select either generator or ‘shore’ power.

I though this part of the work was finished until I remembered that the 2.5mm SY I’ve used for distributing the mains power is not rated for outdoor use. Oh dear.

So what to use instead? I liked the idea of SY as the braid gives a bit or protection, and it’s very visible for inspection.

What are the alternatives? It needs to be flex as it runs along and between a chassis and sub-frame which flexes, and up into the cab which tilts for servicing. NYY is no good as it’s solid-core.

I can only think of rubber HO7, or blue arctic. Neither of these have much mechanical protection, which, considering the conditions the vehicle will occasionally be used in, is not ideal.

I could fit it in flexible conduit but space in the loom is already a bit tight, and that would also render it invisible for inspection.

Or is SY maybe OK? It’s not like it will be sitting in brilliant sunshine (UV) for years. It’s shaded underneath the chassis area.

What would you do?

Looking at what you've done so far, I get the impression you're hands on and look after the vehicle, i'd be tempted to leave it if it's not exposed to the sun, keep an eye on it and if it shows signs of water ingress then replace it with HO7. Either way make sure there's no edges to harm it.
I'd turn the blue socket through 90 degrees so it faces down if you have space.

Looks like a nice job.

 

[sunray]

Looking at what you've done so far, I get the impression you're hands on and look after the vehicle, i'd be tempted to leave it if it's not exposed to the sun, keep an eye on it and if it shows signs of water ingress then replace it with HO7. Either way make sure there's no edges to harm it.
I'd turn the blue socket through 90 degrees so it faces down if you have space.

Looks like a nice job.

Oh I see most has already been said

 

[Mark42]

Thanks, gentlemen, for the helpful advice. And apologies for the silence - I've been building a new workshop this month, just to keep the 'mog in, rather than play on the internet ...

The general consensus appears to be to go for H07RNF. I've ordered some 2.5 and various flexi conduits for where it passes metal edges, and some nylon spiral wrap to give additional mech protection. I only want to do this once, before adding the camper body renders access difficult, so I will replace all the SY regardless.

Good point about the 16A socket being the wrong way round. But if it's vertical, you can't get a plug in! I'll consider re-siting if it gets wet. That's a Famatel IP67 version though - apparently good for immersion, with no drain hole.