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Wiring a fan with an overrun facility on it through a humidistat.the connections are L (permanent feed) L1 (switched feed) and N (neutral).

question is this seeing as I'm spurring from a socket the supply to it is a feed and neutral,so can I link the L and L1 given that there's a pull chord on the fan and will the humidistat do its job?
 
Wiring a fan with an overrun facility on it through a humidistat.the connections are L (permanent feed) L1 (switched feed) and N (neutral).

question is this seeing as I'm spurring from a socket the supply to it is a feed and neutral,so can I link the L and L1 given that there's a pull chord on the fan and will the humidistat do its job?

Why not come off the bathroom light into a 3 pole isolator then the fan ??
 
Generally a humidity time fan will activate when
1, there is humidity in the room
2, once a switched live is present and after the switched live is off, it will run for the preset time

Why are you supplying from a socket why not the lighting circuit and have you fused down to the correct rating for the fan?
 
Yeah obv fused it down to 3amp spur socket is next to fan in kit hen guy didn't want either fear pet lifted upstairs or walls/ceiling burst for cables that's why taken off socket not lighting.i understand how the fan should work with a switched feed permanent feed and neutral but will it still work that way if I link L and L1 together?
 
perm live L is so the fan will work when humidity reaches the preset level you set on the fan
Switched live to fan will run the fan and then when switched live to the fan is off will run for a preset time(what you set on the fan)
YOU LINK THEM together then the fan will not turn off it seems to me
 
It unusual for a humidistat fan to have a timer over-run are you sure you actually have this. Timer over-run on on a humidity level controlled fan could be energy wasteful and pointless.

I'm assuming that you must be trying to wire a fan with a timer over-run facility (which is not required) and an external humidistat, in which case wire the fan with the humidistat on a permanent live and neutral and then take this to the fan L1 and N respectively, so that the sole control is via the humidistat. In this case as there only two lines a SFCU is perfectly acceptable local isolator if required.
 
Will the guy not allow you to trunk below the fan to fit a switch on the wall to control the switched element of the fan?

We have fit them many times for local authorities, the push to make switches that re marked boost.
 

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