FCU 's in Ring Main - advice.

[chrisgc]

Just want the least amount of fittings possible.

 

[gafc156]

I`m with you Tel i always install D/P gid switches with sockets either behind appliance or in the next available cupboard if intergrated

 

[WayneL]

I don't see the point of 'local' isolation, personally.

In my kitchen, it's 5 steps to the CU under the stairs........isolate it there.

If it's emergency switching you require - again, I don't see the point.

If there was an earth fault, it would be off anyway.

Is there actually a regulation that requires this.......or is it 'good practice' again??

 

[gafc156]

For me its neat and tidy, and you don`t get unsightly switched spurs everywhere. the only issue i have with isolation under the stairs is if you have somebody to come out and repair your appliance he/she needs to be able to isolate it before removing appliance. this should really be isolated in the same room he /she is working, and not in another room not under there control.

 

[WayneL]

For me its neat and tidy, and you don`t get unsightly switched spurs everywhere. the only issue i have with isolation under the stairs is if you have somebody to come out and repair your appliance he/she needs to be able to isolate it before removing appliance. this should really be isolated in the same room he /she is working, and not in another room not under there control.

Why, though?

If I go out to work on a dodgy socket in the living room, I isolate under the stairs......what's the difference?

And who said anything about 'unsightly' switched spurs.

Without the need for local isolation, you can either run the ring through the 'behind cabinet' sockets, or spur down off the worktop sockets........no 'unsightly' switches at all.

I'm just curious as to a specific 'regs' number that makes people think this is necessary....anyone??

 

[gafc156]

I see your point, and i sort of agree, however you are talking about an electrician isolating a circuit which we all do. however i don`t think a non electrician should be turning off an mcb at the ccu to work on a faulty appliance. i dont think it makes sense surely it is better to isolate one circuit and not the whole kitchen or in some cases the whole flat.

 

[Geoffsd]

Local isolation is more useful in the case of a faulty appliance which may be tripping the RCD - until the repairer arrives.

When he does he will unplug it.

 

[WayneL]

I understand the convenience etc etc - I just wondered if there was an actual regulation requiring this, or it's up to the individual?

I'm mainly asking because a recent job I looked at had six double socket outlets spread around the worktops - in addition to this there were five SFCUs - feeding under counter sockets/equipment, a cooker isolator and a fan isolator.......to be honest, it looked a mess.

 

[Des 56]

I agree with Waynel sentiments

I dont think there is anything specific about switches for isolation of an individual appliance,after all if the machine is broke,it can be pulled out and unplugged

I tend to just go with what the customer feels about switching,whether its a grid,double pole isolators or the dreaded "Put them in a cupboard"


I must say,the under the stairs option is one I haven't tried,but I think I would give that one a miss, although it probably covers any regulation requirement
In a TT with double pole isolation,we dont always double pole everything,but sometimes rely on the main switch to cover that issue

 

[Guitarist]

Basically, it's a convenience and safety factor. My parents are always turning everything off after they have used it, including the dishwasher and washing machine. If it's switched off (unplugged), it's safer than left on. Can't fault their logic, so they have switches above the worktop in line with the appliance socket underneath.
Regarding this "looks" issue.... there are loads of very nice looking switches and sockets and a kitchen is after all supposed to be a working environment, not a work of art!

 

[malcolmsanford]

Over the years I must have done kitchens this way or that way that, and my kitchen was done with appliances being on individual radials.

There are basically 3 main appliances you find in a kitchen D/Wash W/Machine and Fridge/freezer. ok there can be others now, such as instantaneous heater taps etc, but the bog standard kitchen as 3.

If you don't have the spare ways in your CU I fitted at home a small 4 way CU, using RCBOs had the D/wash W/machine off of 1 radial, the fridge freeze of another and the other 2 radials for sockets.

There is not an FCU or switch above the work surfaces, only sockets, the appliances plug in a single unswitched socket behind it there is no tripping problems or problems if something goes out it takes something else.

 

[telectrix]

shnould have fitted a 5 way CU malc, with a 6A MCB for your favorite halogen downlights. LOL.

 

[Lucas123]

job im on new build maisonettes and flats has both a dedicated radial for fridge/freezer then grid switch for w/machine d/washer and hob

 

[chrisgc]

The property in question has already had the plasterwork completed etc.

The ring main for the kitchen is half in place a the walls in the kitchen are natural stone and the kitchen is due to be fitted in a week or two time.

The kitchens worktops and backsplash (sounds like a toilet accident) will all be of granite.

So the appliances are going to have to come off the ring main and so the appliance sockets will be behind appliances themselves but connected to either DP switchs or Grid switches - visually I guess would be better for the DW, TD and WM appliances to be connected through grid switch system.

 

[Guest111]

The property in question has already had the plasterwork completed etc.

The ring main for the kitchen is half in place a the walls in the kitchen are natural stone and the kitchen is due to be fitted in a week or two time.

The kitchens worktops and backsplash (sounds like a toilet accident) will all be of granite.

So the appliances are going to have to come off the ring main and so the appliance sockets will be behind appliances themselves but connected to either DP switchs or Grid switches - visually I guess would be better for the DW, TD and WM appliances to be connected through grid switch system.

Just a word of warning about this,try and get sockets for appliances in cupboard next to appliance as its a pain trying replace a fuse if you have to dismantle a built in appliance to get at it,also some appliance service people like to take plug out before they touch anything,just a thought to avoid grief later.