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pc1966

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I might need to remove an old heater CU leaving some cable holes in the Henley block where its tails currently go. Anyone got a good suggestion for an insulating plug for those holes?
 
Have you a link to them? I have only ever seen their 20-30A junction boxes and the "neutral link" MCB replacements for the likes of adding SPDs, etc.
My mistake. They’re Proteus.

Like I said, removable blanks (I think 3, so there’s always 2 open holes) and there’s a little block can go in the side so you can screw them up side by side neatly as they’re fixed together.

 
Talk nicely to the next passing electric board man you see, the local SEC guys have them as standard van stock items and are happy to give handfuls away if you engage them in a bit of banter.
(same trick applies to the BT gel crimps if you see someone working in a telephone exchange box)
 
Find a 'short' offcut of 25mm tail, form it into a U shape and install one end in each of the two vacant holes. 😀
 
Find a 'short' offcut of 25mm tail, form it into a U shape and install one end in each of the two vacant holes. 😀
yeh... ok.... ive got an unused hole in the live and neutral blocks.... Will this still work?😳⚡💔
 
Hence the inverted commas around 'short'

Donning some PPE before doing so of course.

I wasn't suggesting doing it live. You might want to re-close the isolator with a gloved hand though.
 
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A thin plastic shim can sometimes be inserted between the brass block and the casing of the Henley block
That’s why we use the Ashley blocks as they come as standard with the little shims. Always have spares in my tool bag.
 
Well had a look yesterday and in fact the blocks are Proteus ones, presumably installed by the smart meter folks as they have seals on them (for no obvious reason, given they are on the consumer's side):
[ElectriciansForums.net] Fill unused holes in Henley block
Just now I am not sure if I should disconnect the old storage heater tails, it might be more hassle than it is worth. As an interim measure I removed the fuse wire from the 3 * 15A rewirable fuses in the dedicated CU (presumably it used to have a white-rate meter and time switch) so if anyone switches it on to see what happens then nothing will. I doubt those circuits have been tested/inspected since the heaters were removed a decade or two ago.

Will see if I can pick up any Proteus blocks for the blanks as some point.

I don't like the 16mm T&E arrangement either, but that is even more hassle to deal with!
 
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