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Hello,

So as a newly qualified domestic installer, I have been given a job that means getting rid of a domestic central heating system and replacing with electric heaters. Noe first thing Im going to do is upgrade the fuse board, here is the rad sizes by kw

Downstairs
1 x 2.5 kw
1 x 1.75 kw
1 x 1.0 kw
Upstairs
2 x 1.0 kw
3 x 0.5 kw

Basically, Im asking for anyones advice how they would go about running this in. Do i need to run 1 x 4mm radial to upstairs rads and 1 x 4mm for downstairs???


"Hello superthornt",

The Heat Output of these Heaters / Rads may NOT be a concern for You if you are just installing someone else`s requirements - But:


From a Heating Engineers point of view the Upstairs Heaters / `Rads` outputs seem VERY Low - I assume that one of the 0.5 KW Heaters / Rads is for a Bathroom ? - is another for a Hallway ? - with 2 X 1 KW and 1 X 0.5 KW Heaters / Rads for the Bedrooms - ?

Unless these are VERY small Rooms with just ONE Outside Wall I feel that these Calculations have been either done using the Heat Loss figures for a VERY Well Constructed and Insulated Home - to New Build Specifications - OR They have been Miscalculated.

Can I take it that the Home is NOT a `New Build Property` - regarding your mention of the existing Heating System being removed ?


As a Heating Engineer I know about Heat Loss and the Heat that needs to be produced to Heat a Room taking into consideration the losses - the Heat Outputs that You have quoted for the `Heaters` that are to be installed in some of the Rooms / areas seem VERY Low to Me.


There are various location factors to consider as well as the Room sizes / number of outside walls etc. when calculating Heat Losses for Heating a Home - or anywhere else - and that is why I would carry out a Site Survey to get the details when calculating for a Heating System - so I don`t really want to be calculating those for You on here - but I would be very sceptical of at least the Bedroom Heaters / Rads Outputs.


Although this may not be anything to do with You - the People living in the Home will probably be very cold when the Weather / Temperature changes.


I am not trying to be `funny` with You - far from it I have written this to try and be helpful.

Obviously in conjunction with the comments of the other Members on here.

Regards,

Chris - Heating Engineer
 
"Hello superthornt",

The Heat Output of these Heaters / Rads may NOT be a concern for You if you are just installing someone else`s requirements - But:


From a Heating Engineers point of view the Upstairs Heaters / `Rads` outputs seem VERY Low - I assume that one of the 0.5 KW Heaters / Rads is for a Bathroom ? - is another for a Hallway ? - with 2 X 1 KW and 1 X 0.5 KW Heaters / Rads for the Bedrooms - ?

Unless these are VERY small Rooms with just ONE Outside Wall I feel that these Calculations have been either done using the Heat Loss figures for a VERY Well Constructed and Insulated Home - to New Build Specifications - OR They have been Miscalculated.

Can I take it that the Home is NOT a `New Build Property` - regarding your mention of the existing Heating System being removed ?


As a Heating Engineer I know about Heat Loss and the Heat that needs to be produced to Heat a Room taking into consideration the losses - the Heat Outputs that You have quoted for the `Heaters` that are to be installed in some of the Rooms / areas seem VERY Low to Me.


There are various location factors to consider as well as the Room sizes / number of outside walls etc. when calculating Heat Losses for Heating a Home - or anywhere else - and that is why I would carry out a Site Survey to get the details when calculating for a Heating System - so I don`t really want to be calculating those for You on here - but I would be very sceptical of at least the Bedroom Heaters / Rads Outputs.


Although this may not be anything to do with You - the People living in the Home will probably be very cold when the Weather / Temperature changes.


I am not trying to be `funny` with You - far from it I have written this to try and be helpful.

Obviously in conjunction with the comments of the other Members on here.

Regards,

Chris - Heating Engineer

Maybe the house in in Spain :)
 
A company called Bright Heating had done a survey for the rooms and came back with the sizes of rads needed to warm each room but quoted just under 8 grand to supply, fit and remove old rads, and change consumer board, Im working from their stats.
It is an old house, unknown cavity, and each bedroom has 2 outside walls. prob 3mx3m size room with high ceilings. The house detached.
7
 
A company called Bright Heating had done a survey for the rooms and came back with the sizes of rads needed to warm each room but quoted just under 8 grand to supply, fit and remove old rads, and change consumer board, Im working from their stats.
It is an old house, unknown cavity, and each bedroom has 2 outside walls. prob 3mx3m size room with high ceilings. The house detached.
7


"Hello again superthornt",

Just from your description above I can Guarantee You that a 3 Metre X 3 Metre Room with 2 Outside Walls and a High Ceiling will NOT be Heated correctly with a ONE KILOWATT Electric Heater / Radiator - IF it is proposed to install just one in each Bedroom.

I wonder where the other 0.5 KW Heater / Radiator is going IF what I guessed about the locations for the 3 X 0.5 KW Heaters is correct - ?


I am not trying to be offensive but I notice that You `Thanked` the Members who commented on My message to You - but You did not feel like Thanking Me for the message - I find that a little strange.

Regards,

Chris
 
Last edited:
chris murphy

As an outsider to this thread, I read your posts with interest and thanks (as reflected with my use of the thanks button!). I have recently been involved in the correction of the electrical side of an electric boiler installation (the wiring was terrible) but have to admit to not being too clever when it comes to the heat output/room size/outside wall sort of stuff. I have done such calcs in the past when installing storage heaters, but personally get very few requests for electric heating these days. The last one I did was installing a frost prevention heater in a cellar! That was hardly rocket science. But my point is that it is nice to be able to glean tidbits of info off folk who have more expertise in certain areas. I'll shut up now.
 
chris murphy

As an outsider to this thread, I read your posts with interest and thanks (as reflected with my use of the thanks button!). I have recently been involved in the correction of the electrical side of an electric boiler installation (the wiring was terrible) but have to admit to not being too clever when it comes to the heat output/room size/outside wall sort of stuff. I have done such calcs in the past when installing storage heaters, but personally get very few requests for electric heating these days. The last one I did was installing a frost prevention heater in a cellar! That was hardly rocket science. But my point is that it is nice to be able to glean tidbits of info off folk who have more expertise in certain areas. I'll shut up now.


"Hello kingeri",

Thanks for what You wrote about My previous Posts.

You may have read in some of those messages that My `motive` for being involved in the Forum is to give some `Payback` for being helped by a Member [topquark] when I asked for some information regarding a slightly unusual wiring method for a Programmable Room Thermostat.


In this instance although I wondered whether superthornt was responsible for specifying outputs for the the Electric Heaters / Radiators I wanted to mention that I felt the stated outputs looked much too Low for even small rooms.

If He is responsible for Specifying / Supplying these Heaters / Radiators - I thought that I could help to prevent the installation of inadequately sized Heaters / Radiators - and also prevent Him from having problems from the Customer for installing a `Heating System` that simply did not Heat the rooms.

I imagine that the present Calculations / Cable Sizes / installed Cables might not allow for larger Heaters / Radiators to be installed on that wiring WHEN it was found that the proposed Heaters did NOT Heat the rooms ?

That of course would be apart from the loss of the `Redundant` 1 KW and 0.5 KW Heaters / Radiators - the Costs for Larger output Heaters and I am guessing the installation of larger Cables ?


As He does not feel that any `Thanks` are in order perhaps I have just wasted My time with this.


Thanks again for your comments.

Regards,

Chris
 
Last edited:
Heehee Umm Sorry Chris Murphy, Didnt thank just yet, was waiting to see what else would come in.

There is no orrence to be taken, At the end of the day, I have taken to this forum for advice and for people to help clear things up and, with yourself, helping me gain more knowledge. I would hate to supply all these rads and then the customer turn around to tell me I have not supplied sufficient heating for them.
What would be you way to calculate the rooms if you dont mind me asking.

Your friendly neighbourhood
Confused.com
 
Although I am not saying that this is the case in this instance, it has been known for firms to come in with smaller "super-heaters" at an exorbitant price so that "energy savings" can be used as a selling point...
It's amazing how many 1kw heaters can give off at least 3kw of heat, due to being so super-efficient. :)
 
Although I am not saying that this is the case in this instance, it has been known for firms to come in with smaller "super-heaters" at an exorbitant price so that "energy savings" can be used as a selling point...
It's amazing how many 1kw heaters can give off at least 3kw of heat, due to being so super-efficient. :)

If it looks too good to be true then it is too to good to be true cause in my book you don't get owt for nowt

3kw of heat for 1kw input what next perpetual motion :biggrin5:
 
If the heater is 100% efficient, then 1kW input equates to 1kW output.

Pretty much all electric heaters will be 100% efficient; there's nowhere else for the energy used to go. In fact a light bulb (lamp) or any other appliance will be a 100% efficient heater (neglecting any light energy that escapes through the window glass).
 

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