Fix for Broken Dishwasher Switch

[telectrix]

along with one of these:

 

[John White]

"Looking at your photo it appears to be switching live and neutral (double pole switch), also you’d need new crimp connections attached and the burnt wire cut back to good wire...
But if your not fully competent then don’t do it yourself!
Like I say, if it were my dishwasher, that’s what I’d do but I have the skill and necessary tools and equipment to check and carry out the repair"

I am thinking about giving this a try. In order to do it safely, other than the switch, what are the exact components and tools I would need bearing in mind I am also trying to fix this for the minimum amount of money? It would be great to fix it and have some tools and experience at the end of it I could use again.

 

[telectrix]

basically, all you need is a 2 pole 16A switch , the tools to fix it in place and repair to the damaged cable. a couple of spade crimps and the tool to crimp onto the cables. a multimeter to determine which terminal is which and which wire goes where. a simple job for the likes of us, but beware if doing it yourself, a poor connection would end up like it is now or worse. strongly suggest getting an electrician or a good appliance repairman to do this.

 

[Spoon]

Just to add to the above. If you replace the switch with another switch which is not approved for the machine by the manufacturers (E.G. same switch) then if anything does wrong with the dishwasher, like catches fire, then it is your responsibility.

 

[John White]

Do I really need a replacement switch for a safe fix? It wouldn't really matter to me if the machine was on standby all the time / simply turned on/off at the mains. Could I not just use a multimeter and a simple junction box to join the appropriate wires? I doubt I will be able to find a switch that fits the exact hole in the plastic casing, so wouldn't that in itself be dangerous as water could penetrate through gaps? Without a switch, I guess the fix would be cheaper and much easier to make that hole for the switch water-tight.

 

[SparkyChick]

The appliance should have a switch... if manufacturers thought they could get away without one, why would they spend money on including one?

Waterproofing the existing switch is easy... looking at the spare parts on-line, a serving of silicone sealant around the switch cap, job done. However, you shouldn't be using any electrical equipment with wet hands unless it is specifically rated for such use.

This switch is IP65 rated, available in 16A @ 250v AC:-

C1353VQNAM | Arcolectric Illuminated DPST, On-Off Rocker Switch Panel | Arcolectric - https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rocker-switches/1235198/

I believe (the guys will correct me if I'm wrong) this would be a suitable switch.

Don't remove manufacturers implemented features (the power switch) just to save a few quid. If I were asked to do this repair, I would be looking at an hour of my time plus materials. It shouldn't be an expensive repair, even when done by someone who is competent to carry it out.

 

[Spoon]

Do I really need a replacement switch for a safe fix? It wouldn't really matter to me if the machine was on standby all the time / simply turned on/off at the mains.

I take it you didn't read my post #19...

 

[Marvo]

I'd suggest you shouldn't bypass the switch and permanently wire it permanently on, if something happens in the future that injurs somebody you'll be in court looking at possible jail time. I know it's a long shot but rather don't take the chance.

The switch could be one of various configurations, it might be double pole switching the live and the neutral but it could also be a single pole changeover with a neutral just for illuminating an internal indicator lamp.

You could try removing the switch entirely and taking it to your nearest Maplins or similar shop to see if they can figure out what it is and offer a replacement. Then just get a sparky in for half an hour to repair the damaged wiring, fit the switch and test the appliance.

 

[Richard Burns]

This switch is IP65 rated, available in 16A @ 250v AC:-
C1353VQNAM | Arcolectric Illuminated DPST, On-Off Rocker Switch Panel | Arcolectric - C1353VQNAM | Arcolectric Illuminated DPST, On-Off Rocker Switch Panel | Arcolectric - https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rocker-switches/1235198/
I believe (the guys will correct me if I'm wrong) this would be a suitable switch.

I think the original switch is a push button not a rocker switch. 16A and 250Vac DPST are all OK (probably, can't tell without testing the switch) but probably better with a push button; finding one that fits the space and screws to the same flimsy screw holes would be more difficult.

 

[SparkyChick]

I think the original switch is a push button not a rocker switch. 16A and 250Vac DPST are all OK (probably, cant tell with out testing the switch) but probably better with a push button; finding one that fits the space and screws to the same flimsy screw holes would be more difficult.
View attachment 42746

I was going off the alternative switch suggestion on the basis a suitable replacement might be hard to come by.

TBH, I was mainly posting to try and suggest the OP doesn't ignore the suggestions that have come before and completely bypass the switch.