Floods on insulated steel buildings | on ElectriciansForums
Guest viewing is limited

Discuss Floods on insulated steel buildings in the Talk Electrician area at ElectriciansForums.net

loz

-
Joined
Jun 4, 2011
Messages
48
Reaction score
20
got a few 100w floods to mount on a newbuild. The walls are clad with insulated cladding, outer tin strip, insulated ion, thin tin strip. I can't get a fixing into the top purling, due to guttering. The client wants the floods mounted between en the top 2 purlins. I was thinking 2 bits of units rut outside horizontally (to span the corrigations) bolted through into 2 more bits of strut about a foot long mounted vertically to spread the weight of the fitting? I really don't want to crease the building, or even worse have a light come down in windy conditions
 
Whatever you do you need to get agreement for exactly what you are going to do.

If it was my new building I wouldn't want Unistrut showing everywhere on the outside.

How heavy are these fittings?

Are the Cladders still on site or is there any cladding trim bits left?
 
Whatever you do you need to get agreement for exactly what you are going to do.

If it was my new building I wouldn't want Unistrut showing everywhere on the outside.

How heavy are these fittings?

Are the Cladders still on site or is there any cladding trim bits left?
I was thinking the vertical strut on the inside so the fitting would be secured through the building, the only strut outside would be behind the light in order to bridge the corrigations.

The cladders have left some trim on site, are you thinking bolt a strip through 2 corrigations so bolts go through the building and nut and washer on the inside, then bolt light to this strip. This had crossed my mind, at least any flexing in wind would at worst bend this strip, and not the cladding?

The lights aren't massively heavy, I'm more concerned about the effects of wind.

I'm not keen on trek screwing to the cladding as I don't think such a thin material can support a sturdy screw fixing, hence bolting through to the inside.
 
i'd use a short piece of unistrut behind the light ( long enough to bridge at least one corrugation ) and bolt through to a longer piece on the inside, then fix flood with zebedees.
 
If these are 100W LEDs will the bracket holes reach adjacent corrugations?
If so 2 internal verticals, zeb and bolt direct. Dont forget to use a sealant.
Used this method for T&K brackets, but you won't need to attatch to the cladding horizontals.
 
Drill a 16mm hole for each fixing and use toggle bolts with a washer. Done it loads of times to fix Floods to metal clad commercial/industrial units. Recently done 9 units, you can just about make out the fitting above the roller shutter doors which is a 70W son and fixed using toggle bolts.
[ElectriciansForums.net] Floods on insulated steel buildings [ElectriciansForums.net] Floods on insulated steel buildings [ElectriciansForums.net] Floods on insulated steel buildings [ElectriciansForums.net] Floods on insulated steel buildings
 
Thank you for your input guys, it's been really helpful. I must say I massively underestimated the rigidity of the cladding, I was concerned that as soon as you tightened a fixing through it would just crush the two layers, this certainly wasn't the case.

In the end I cut a length of strut to fit between 2 corrigations, and hooted through into another length of strut horizontally inside using some m8 stud rod and double jutted to prevent the bolts coming loose over time. The light brackets were about 10mm wider than the gap between the corrigations. This proved to be really sturdy, and should last the test of time.

I've seen so many lights just stuck up with woodscrews or trek screws into the outer layer of tin, and can only see this leading to problems after a few years of wind rattling the bracket around.
 
Thank you for your input guys, it's been really helpful. I must say I massively underestimated the rigidity of the cladding, I was concerned that as soon as you tightened a fixing through it would just crush the two layers, this certainly wasn't the case.

In the end I cut a length of strut to fit between 2 corrigations, and hooted through into another length of strut horizontally inside using some m8 stud rod and double jutted to prevent the bolts coming loose over time. The light brackets were about 10mm wider than the gap between the corrigations. This proved to be really sturdy, and should last the test of time.

I've seen so many lights just stuck up with woodscrews or trek screws into the outer layer of tin, and can only see this leading to problems after a few years of wind rattling the bracket around.
Yes, I've seen them fitted with a couple of self tappers or tek's and in no timethey start sagging
 

Reply to Floods on insulated steel buildings in the Talk Electrician area at ElectriciansForums.net

News and Offers from Sponsors

  • Sticky
  • Article
Wicked I've just actually looked through it and it's very smart. Some good stuff in it. There's a tile association company that do a magazine...
Replies
2
Views
290
  • Article
OFFICIAL SPONSORS These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then...
Replies
0
Views
276
  • Article
Hi everyone, Another weekend, another sale! Get ready for colder days with Haverland Radiators, combining efficiency with modern design. Keep...
Replies
0
Views
354

OFFICIAL SPONSORS

Electrical Goods - Electrical Tools - Brand Names Electrician Courses Green Electrical Goods PCB Way Electrical Goods - Electrical Tools - Brand Names Pushfit Wire Connectors Electric Underfloor Heating Electrician Courses
These Official Forum Sponsors May Provide Discounts to Regular Forum Members - If you would like to sponsor us then CLICK HERE and post a thread with who you are, and we'll send you some stats etc

YOUR Unread Posts

This website was designed, optimised and is hosted by untold.media Operating under the name Untold Media since 2001.
Back
Top