floor cutting or bust the ceiling ,neatly as posible | on ElectriciansForums

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marked out me first row of lights in 2 rooms to finish up today for tomorrow, i can get to above ceiling but the floorboards are the groove ones and im hopping no noggins in, as they nightmare to get back down, then was thinking maybe just cut a 100mm track out with angle grinder on ceiling beside the lights, which do you think will be more boring and lest constructive.. on top of the floor boards there is loads of chairs and tabless.... help
 
Tounge and groove floor boards = Stanley knife, hammer and chisel.

Plaster board ceiling = pad saw, fishing rods and a 400mm long flat head drill bit and a good plasterer to make good.

Use whichever is best for the job.
 
It just depends! If theres a stone tiled bathroom above youre deffo going up through ceiling. Last one I did was a breeze, stumbled on original holes through beams and used a very skilled plasterer, job was a dream.


Thinking about it though I broke my wrist on that job, fell off bottom step onto stone floor, hurt like hell & never really got better (ignored it for 6 months). Ten grands worth of NHS CT scans and xrays later, turns out i broke it!
 
Rip saw (set for depth) for the floor boards if needed works for me. If its an attack through the ceiling as big a holesaw I can find, and keep the plasterboard cut out for whoever is patching up.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I always find the best way to attack t & g floors, especially in occupied premises is to use one of the Fein saw type of multisaws. I saw a plumber using one for just that reason. Bought one and think it's one of the best tools I,ve got, hardly makes any dust. You can get much cheaper versions now by other manufacturers.
 
There was a version to be had in Aldi a few weeks back. Feels pretty solid for only 30 quid. Obviously if it's going to get alot of use i'd have gone for the fein or the bosch.

Rich
 
me and pipes have met before, unfortubatly they knocked be back time and money, but hey check check check from now on, all lights postioned and cabled out. you always have to rejig the light setup from what you have planned. ,


@ timbo, sounds like a guest house.

i got the insulated cu, but has no 20mm knockouts at top.... they built for mini trunking, does the snap outs break easy enough, isit like a switch plate and crack down middle???? 10-4
 

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