FUSE REPLACEMENT

[FRAM77]

Merry Xmas!!!

My Nobo electric heater has stopped working. Everything seems fine but there is no continuity in a part that I believe is a safety fuse. See attached picture. As you can see there is black from I suppose a flame and the part has on the underside a small metal piece that does not make any more contact. Is this a "safety cut off switch"? What is the name of this part? Nobo does not provide any more spare parts!

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The model of the heather is:
C4N203-127EA1NX 1850-2000W 230-240V IP24

Can this be the right replacement part?

Victron Energy MEGA fuse 60A - 300A for 12v, 24v & 32v systems - Low Energy Supermarket

Victron Midi Fuses are the smallest in the range to keep your installation safe. With a choice of voltage and amperage we have something for everyone

lowenergysupermarket.com

 

[mainline]

Merry Xmas!!!

My Nobo electric heater has stopped working. Everything seems fine but there is no continuity in a part that I believe is a safety fuse. See attached picture. As you can see there is black from I suppose a flame and the part has on the underside a small metal piece that does not make any more contact. Is this a "safety cut off switch"? What is the name of this part? Nobo does not provide any more spare parts!

WeTransfer | Send Large Files Fast - Up To 2GB Free

The simple, quick and secure way to send your files around the world without an account. Share your files, photos, and videos today for free.

we.tl

The model of the heather is:
C4N203-127EA1NX 1850-2000W 230-240V IP24

Can this be the right replacement part?

Victron Energy MEGA fuse 60A - 300A for 12v, 24v & 32v systems - Low Energy Supermarket

Victron Midi Fuses are the smallest in the range to keep your installation safe. With a choice of voltage and amperage we have something for everyone

lowenergysupermarket.com

It looks to be a thermal cutout device

So NO, DO NOT replace with a fuse.

 

[Moley]

As Mainline says, it looks like a bi-metal thermal trip. Replacing it with the fuse would be dangerous. There should be some writting on either the component itself or on the plastic casing to show it's operating temperature.

 

[freddo]

It is either a control thermostat or an overheat thermostat. There probably won't be any markings indicating its operating temperature to obtain a replacement, which probably isn't available to buy anyway.

Buy a new heater.

 

[FRAM77]

It is a Otter bimetal safety cut off switch for a Nobo heater. Original part is Otter H11 403064658, see attached picture.
It should not work normally so it might indicate a problem somewhere else. At the same time is 20 years old so I suppose it failed due to age. All the rest seems to work fine and I have a new heater control motherboard
1) I can find on Ebay but not sure if it is a 60 o 70 degrees one? Any idea? what temperature it is usually fitted to electric heaters? it is just over the resistance so I suppose if the electronic switch does not work it gests pretty hot so I could go for the 70 degrees one?

THERMAL CUT OUT OTTER H11 & H13 60°C, 65°C & 70°C | eBay

H13 65°C- OVER 400 AVAILABLE ASK FOR SPECIAL PRICE ON BULK ORDERS.

www.ebay.co.uk

2) If I decide to replace is there a brand of Electric heaters you recommend?

Thank you!

 

[Avo Mk8]

I can't immediately establish which temp cutout was originally fitted.
The H11 version is auto resetting, so when it trips, and the heater cools down, it will eventually switch back on.
It looks from your photo of the old one that it could have been cycling like that, and that's what's killed it.

So it may be that your heater has been getting too hot, in which case the adjustable thermostat could be faulty, or perhaps the heater was covered or had furniture too near it for a while.
If you want to try a replacement cutout, I feel the 60 deg version would be safer. You will need to check that when the heater is fixed and running, that its temperature is actually being controlled by the thermostat and not by the cutout cycling off/on!

 

[FRAM77]

I can't immediately establish which temp cutout was originally fitted.
The H11 version is auto resetting, so when it trips, and the heater cools down, it will eventually switch back on.
It looks from your photo of the old one that it could have been cycling like that, and that's what's killed it.

So it may be that your heater has been getting too hot, in which case the adjustable thermostat could be faulty, or perhaps the heater was covered or had furniture too near it for a while.
If you want to try a replacement cutout, I feel the 60 deg version would be safer. You will need to check that when the heater is fixed and running, that its temperature is actually being controlled by the thermostat and not by the cutout cycling off/on!

Thank you. I have tested the thermostat and seems to work fine, it goes on and off automatically. it was replaced a few years ago.

Otter provided me the below info....they say cut of at 130C which seems a bit high, my electric heater never gets that hot.
F06465B
H11B0U0300 BR 130+or- 5 ND10 XD60 - the break will be between 125°C & 135°C it needs a min diff between 10° and Max 60°C so if the bimetal was to break at exactly 130°C the remake would have to be between 120° (min) and 70° (max).

perhaps I can buy this cheap one from china but again not clear what is the cut off temperature

Pardon our interruption...

 

[freddo]

There seems to be a lot of heating at the right hand side of that cutout, I wonder if it failed due to a poor/loose connection on the spade crimp?

 

[FRAM77]

There seems to be a lot of heating at the right hand side of that cutout, I wonder if it failed due to a poor/loose connection on the spade crimp?

the reason of the failure is unclear but it is 20 years old and few year ago I had problems with the motherboard (now replaced) that might have made it to work hard for several cycles. it was open but really it was me breaking the blade while trying to dismantle it! perhaps it was just stuck. The full failure of the part was my fault. Although there are some dark sign inside the plastic case, showing that the emergency cut off has activated in the last 20 years, there is nothing burned or melted.

It is just difficult to find a part I can confidently fit!!!

The Ebay above seems to have a 130C cut off. this is the same that the standard specification of the heater and seems the standard temperature for many electric devices.

Not sure about quality either but at the same time I do not see massive risks. this heater is usually used when people are in the flat so the worst that can happen is the heater to overheat and smell bad?......but again the current electronic cut off and temperature sensor seems to work perfectly, I have tested it for several hours (to test I have connected the cable directly without safety cut off switch)

 

[mainline]

the reason of the failure is unclear but it is 20 years old and few year ago I had problems with the motherboard (now replaced) that might have made it to work hard for several cycles. it was open but really it was me breaking the blade while trying to dismantle it! perhaps it was just stuck. The full failure of the part was my fault. Although there are some dark sign inside the plastic case, showing that the emergency cut off has activated in the last 20 years, there is nothing burned or melted.

It is just difficult to find a part I can confidently fit!!!

The Ebay above seems to have a 130C cut off. this is the same that the standard specification of the heater and seems the standard temperature for many electric devices.

Not sure about quality either but at the same time I do not see massive risks. this heater is usually used when people are in the flat so the worst that can happen is the heater to overheat and smell bad?......but again the current electronic cut off and temperature sensor seems to work perfectly, I have tested it for several hours (to test I have connected the cable directly without safety cut off switch)

I was going to suggest temporarily shorting it out to ensure the stat works as it should, but this cannot be guaranteed, which is why they have the safety thermal device.

Unless fitted with an original one, then you can't be confident of it working as it should.

 

[mainline]

Thank you. I have tested the thermostat and seems to work fine, it goes on and off automatically. it was replaced a few years ago.

Otter provided me the below info....they say cut of at 130C which seems a bit high, my electric heater never gets that hot.
F06465B
H11B0U0300 BR 130+or- 5 ND10 XD60 - the break will be between 125°C & 135°C it needs a min diff between 10° and Max 60°C so if the bimetal was to break at exactly 130°C the remake would have to be between 120° (min) and 70° (max).

perhaps I can buy this cheap one from china but again not clear what is the cut off temperature

Pardon our interruption...

It's only 5 amps, you would need at least 16.

 

[FRAM77]

thanks for spotting this. I have no checked but I suppose should be 16A

 

[RetiredNY]

Not sure about quality either but at the same time I do not see massive risks. this heater is usually used when people are in the flat so the worst that can happen is the heater to overheat and smell bad?......but again the current electronic cut off and temperature sensor seems to work perfectly, I have tested it for several hours (to test I have connected the cable directly without safety cut off switch)

Please do not think this way. You don't see massive risks? I suppose that means you do see some risk, yes? This internal thermal cutout is the last line of defense against tragedy... perhaps fire, should the room thermostat fail on, and eventually overheat the heater, or if the heater itself gets covered with drapes or cloth, overheating the internals to the point of ignition. 1-Get the correct part, perhaps from the manufacturer. 2- Do not trust eBay sellers, or Amazon, they lie. Counterfeit products run rampant on those platforms.

 

[Avo Mk8]

Not sure about quality either but at the same time I do not see massive risks. this heater is usually used when people are in the flat so the worst that can happen is the heater to overheat and smell bad?......but again the current electronic cut off and temperature sensor seems to work perfectly, I have tested it for several hours (to test I have connected the cable directly without safety cut off switch)

Just from the legal standpoint, property insurance and your personal liability, if you fit a part of your choice, not the original component intended by the manufacturer (particularly since this is a safety related part), then, if there was an overheat situation or an accident, you would likely be in the firing line, insurance could be invalid and you could be out of pocket (as a minimum!). I know it seems unlikely, but I wouldn't myself consider fitting anything but the part suggested by Nobo.
Given it's a 20 year old heater, presumably doesn't comply with current Lot20 environmental legislation, and it's done it's time, I would respect other people's safety and replace the heater with an up-to-date one!