gas combi boile rwiring

[i=p/u]

going to wire up gas combi boiler tomorrow, with one stat and gas fire..

now i am nearly certain the wiring centre is built into the boiler.. never done gas boiler before, so any thing you want me to be aware of and you think will be useful info for me, il appreciate

 

[D80]

its in gelengormly , could of subbed it to you, and sit back but get some of the money we all so love.. called sharing..lol

Maybe should have Would save returning for a 3rd time

 

[i=p/u]

I can understand that you remove link in ta1 for your thermostat . There is a black flex within boiler controls L-N-E but does this come out or does my flex from spur go in and connect internally in connector blocks. I will get there

 

[Richard Burns]

The boiler may have a prefitted supply cable (black flex?) that would run outside the boiler to your power supply.

If there were no external thermostat then the TA1 link sounds like it is just linking out the connection.

Because you have an external thermostat you need to remove the link and then wire in your external thermostat across these connections.

This is only what I can understand of your description so read the manual as well!

 

[i=p/u]

Have been looking at manuals online just now. I can see what you saying now but the external thermostat has a neutral so just need to work out where that goes now .

going to move my spur little closer too. Ain't easy this buiz

 

[Geordie Spark]

View attachment 15336Bbbbbbbbbbb

OK ..... that link is where the Roomstat connects - one of those terminals is live & goes TO the stat & the other is the switched live FROM the stat.

In your later post, you say the Roomstat needs a neutral. This is quite normal for some Roomstats & you'll take this from the "N" terminal inside the boiler - the same "N" terminal that your "mains in" flex is connected to.

The reason for the neutral at the Roomstat is that "some" Roomstats have a small heating element inside them which makes them more sensitive & therefore they have a tighter control of the room temperature. In some cases, they will work without connecting the neutral, but the room temperature may drop quite a long way before the Roomstat kicks in - then the room temperature may rise quite high before the Roomstat kicks out.

Other types of Roomstat use electronic sensing elements inside them which do not need a neutral & these are commomly known as "Two Wire" types.

 

[Geordie Spark]

I can understand that you remove link in ta1 for your thermostat . There is a black flex within boiler controls L-N-E but does this come out or does my flex from spur go in and connect internally in connector blocks. I will get there

IF this flex is about 1 metre long with one end bare & the other end connected to a connector block marked L-N-E inside the boiler, then this is your mains supply for the boiler. (you can use the "N" terminal to supply a neutral to your Roomstat too)

All you need do is EITHER stick a plug top fitted with a 3 amp fuse on the bare end and plug it into a socket OR wire it into a Swiched Fused Spur fitted with a 3 amp fuse and preferably with Double Pole switch.

From looking at the piccie you posted, it looks like the Combi has its own built-in time clock so at least you don't have that to worry about !!

 

[i=p/u]

If your out there geordie sarks, isit common for external stats of these gas combi boilers to be 12v????

 

[i=p/u]

http://www.heatandplumb.com/images/ariston/ecombi_combi_servicing_instructions.pdf

 

[Geordie Spark]

If your out there geordie sarks, isit common for external stats of these gas combi boilers to be 12v????

It's becoming more common I think.

IF your boiler is putting-out 12 volts to the Room stat, I suggest you use this: Combi-Stat Thermostat or similar.

Just wire it using 2 wires and do not send a neutral to it & you should be ok.

 

[i=p/u]

Would the danfoss stat the plumber gave me worked on 12v???? Never came with packaging

 

[i=p/u]

But thx for the link

 

[i=p/u]

And it does say 24v-230v

 

[Geordie Spark]

Would the danfoss stat the plumber gave me worked on 12v???? Never came with packaging

I've not seen it ......... it may work or it may not.

I remember using Danfoss and they were mains operated 3 wire jobs that needed a neutral.

Basically, a thermostat can be mechanical or electronic and the 3 wire jobs are mechanical. These work by a bi-metal strip either warming or cooling with the temperature changes in the room and as the bi-metal strip warms or cools it bends either one way or the other. When this happens, it either opens or closes the switch contacts to fire the boiler or shut it down. To make the thermostat more sensitive, there is a small heater built into it which keeps the bi-metal strip warm and therefore more sensitive to the room temperature changes.

The electronic types use an electronic sensing element ( a thermistor??? ) and a little circuit board to do the switching and tend to work at lower voltages and do not need a neutral.

I see no harm in wiring the stat your plumber gave you as a 2 wire job and try it. If it either doesn't work or does work but with wildly varying temperatures, you can always replace it with an electronic 2 wire one .. they are not that expensive.

 

[i=p/u]

Cheerss, helpfull... Especially havent heard of a thermistor since college.. Its good to hear some things come out