general purpose timeswitch help!

[rustynails]

hi all, I'm having a nightmare with a Newlec NL24HRTS 24 hour General Purpose Timeswitch. The customer wanted to swap an old pin type timer for this new timer. So I went about fitting it and I cannot get it to operate correctly. The time switch would be used to turn on 3 outdoor lights for security purposes. It is fed from a switched fused spur. The timeswitch comes with a wire link which should not be removed. It should be wired as follows:E EarthN NeutralL Live Supply1 Live Input for volt free output (if required if not leave link wire in place2 Normally open switch live output to heater or other appliance3 Normally closed switch live output to heater or other appliance

The picture shows the wiring that I have attempted. You can see that the timer has constant power. But when you put the link that doesnt happen thats why I removed the link.Any advise would be appreciated. I have tried different connection variation but cannot get it to work as it should.

 

[telectrix]

simple.

1. read instructions.

 

[KAS1]

What's the other cable in the mini trunking for (the one that's not connected) ?

 

[Marvo]

What on earth happened to the cables, they look like a large rodent has had hold of them.

Is the timer a single pole changeover contact or a DPST? Also why didn't you common the CPC's together?

 

[Fast&Rough]

Think you should tidy the wiring up a bit and take another look at the wiring diagram that came with it or post a pic of it

 

[iamelectric]

have u took test lamps to it and tested whats coming out the load side you prob need to loop the neutrals

 

[rustynails]

simple.

1. read instructions.

I obviously haven't read them well enough. Personally I don't understand the wiring instructions, 1 2 3 terminals not sure on.

1 Live Input for volt free output (if required if not leave link wire in place)
2 Normally open switch live output to heater or other appliance
3 Normally closed switch live output

whats the other cable for

It is for the second light that is going to be turned on by the timer.

What on earth happened to the cables, they look like a large rodent has had hold of them.

Is the timer a single pole changeover contact or a DPST? Also why didn't you common the CPC's together?

I know! I thought that! not sure will take a further look tomorrow. Im not sure what a sinlge pole changeover contact is or a dpst? When I took the photo I hadnt connected all the cpc's I was rushing to get it working but failed big style.

the instructions have no diagram just words

 

[rustynails]

have u took test lamps to it and tested whats coming out the load side you prob need to loop the neutrals

the timer came with a little metal link which is says should not be removed but maybe it's in the wrong terminals not sure...

 

[itselectric]

I think tou may find that the blackwire on the load is a neutral and should be coupled with supply neutral

 

[Marvo]

I obviously haven't read them well enough. Personally I don't understand the wiring instructions, 1 2 3 terminals not sure on.

1 Live Input for volt free output (if required if not leave link wire in place)
2 Normally open switch live output to heater or other appliance
3 Normally closed switch live output

The instructions make sense. Put the link back in between L&1, get the load side neutral off the switch contact 3 and into the 'N' terminal before you destroy any electronics in the load you're supplying (assuming you haven't already).

To be honest if you don't understand how the timer wires you shouldn't have even started the job. You're likely to damage the appliance being supplied or damage the timer by guessing which wires go where.

 

[telectrix]

1 Live Input for volt free output (if required if not leave link wire in place)
2 Normally open switch live output to heater or other appliance
3 Normally closed switch live output

that tells me that 1 is Lin, 2 is Lout. 3 don't use. it basically has 1 as common and switches from 3 to 2 when the clock says ON. now just sort out the N

 

[tazz]

Come on guys.....the nurtral has not been link together, load in link neutrals, and switched line out.
So both blacks in N... link out L and terminal 1 load line red in 2 or 3 depending on NC or NO

 

[Octopus]

May be this is a daft question to the OP, but what did the instructions in the box tell you? Guessing isn't the best way to sort this out!

 

[Spoon]

As Marvo says in post 10. Basically terminals 1,2 & 3 are a change over switch. 1= common, 2=NO, 3=NC.
Hope the 3 security light are not more than 750W as this is the max it can do.
http://www.neweysonline.co.uk/neweys/pdf/literature/newlec-catalogue/2013/newlec-catalogue-hvac.pdf page 24 of 30 (top of page 285)

 

[shagbite]

I obviously haven't read them well enough. Personally I don't understand the wiring instructions, 1 2 3 terminals not sure on.

1 Live Input for volt free output (if required if not leave link wire in place)
2 Normally open switch live output to heater or other appliance
3 Normally closed switch live output



It is for the second light that is going to be turned on by the timer.



I know! I thought that! not sure will take a further look tomorrow. Im not sure what a sinlge pole changeover contact is or a dpst? When I took the photo I hadnt connected all the cpc's I was rushing to get it working but failed big style.

the instructions have no diagram just words

brilliant!