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littlespark

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Not so much an electrical question, but physically.

Got a customer out in the sticks who’s suffered with powercuts frequently during the recent storms.
Now, easy enough to fit a changeover switch, but in this case, the mains comes in in the centre of the house. Not a handy place to drill a hole to outside.

So, would you wire in a 32A (or 16, depending what genny they get) plug to the changeover, leave a long enough extension lead to reach a window, crossing their kitchen floor….

Don’t suggest a “widowmaker”
 
It's not just the trip hazard. If the genny inlet is in the middle of the house, there's a chance that sometime someone will decide to run the generator in the middle of the house, on a short lead, as well.
Very true!

Another very good reason to have a commando male inlet outside the building.

Incidentally anyone else feel they are not really waterproof enough if sloping down for easier cable access? Seems water can run down the gap between male socket and the female plug. Having it is some sort of shelter / box would be a good idea to keep the rain off once mated.
 
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Incidentally anyone else feel they are not really waterproof enough if sloping down for easier cable access? Seems water can run down the gap between make socket and the female plug. Having it is some sort of shelter / box would be a good idea to keep the rain off once mated.
That's what my gut feeling is as well, but having used them with my touring caravan for decades often two cables plugged together and lying on the ground, I've yet to see any evidence of any water penetration whatsoever
 
Down-angled appliance inlets and couplers of less than IP67 are not good for permanent connection outdoors as the coupler does collect water. I have one on the boat, but with a sneaky drain hole drilled from the 'moat' of the coupler to outside at the lowest point when in position, to let the water back out. Upgrading it is one of those 'round tuits' that never seems to get a look-in because it works at the moment and there are always 1001 more urgent maintenance tasks on a boat that whatever it is you want to upgrade. For occasional use with a portable generator it is unlikely to be a problem as any water collected will escape when the coupler is removed.
 
Down-angled appliance inlets and couplers of less than IP67 are not good for permanent connection outdoors as the coupler does collect water. I have one on the boat, but with a sneaky drain hole drilled from the 'moat' of the coupler to outside at the lowest point when in position, to let the water back out. Upgrading it is one of those 'round tuits' that never seems to get a look-in because it works at the moment and there are always 1001 more urgent maintenance tasks on a boat that whatever it is you want to upgrade. For occasional use with a portable generator it is unlikely to be a problem as any water collected will escape when the coupler is removed.
And sadly, very hard to find (and expensive to buy when you do!)
 
We used to get a lot of waterlogged 16A plugs on the caravan park. Couldn’t see where the water was getting into the hook up units, but somehow would get into the socket on the bottom of the box and run into the plug.

Some of the blue plugs came with clear covers so you could see the level of water inside reaching the terminals.


I’m going to look at the genny job this week, so will see where the route under the kitchen units comes out.. either outside or through garage.
 
I’m going to look at the job on Saturday morning, and now I’m looking at other threads about genny backups… it’s a little more complex than I thought… and expensive.

The changeover switch needs to be rated to carry the full load when on mains power… so 60A at least.. some switches are £200 plus from CEF


Then there’s the earthing. Will I need to stake next to where the genny is, or does the genny give its own as part of the neutral… does it have to be a specific type of generator, or just a standard building site machine?

Indicator lights at the changeover to show when mains power was restored… or is that a “nice to have”?
 
The changeover switch needs to be rated to carry the full load when on mains power… so 60A at least.. some switches are £200 plus from CEF
Fitted many tractor driven 5kVa and 15kVA generators on dairy farms, and of course, they always came with a switch rated for the genies output. Cue argument with the farmer every time as to why he had to fork out for a big, expensive switch, when one was supplied.
Indicator lights at the changeover to show when mains power was restored… or is that a “nice to have”?

Always fitted them, usually to the mains isolator alongside. If they know when power has been restored, it discourages them from switching the changeover switch under load, "just to check".
 
I’m going to look at the job on Saturday morning, and now I’m looking at other threads about genny backups… it’s a little more complex than I thought… and expensive.

The changeover switch needs to be rated to carry the full load when on mains power… so 60A at least.. some switches are £200 plus from CEF
Yes, can be expensive! Our ATS was a shade over ÂŁ1k

This might be worth a look:
Then there’s the earthing. Will I need to stake next to where the genny is, or does the genny give its own as part of the neutral… does it have to be a specific type of generator, or just a standard building site machine?
It depends.

Most smaller 'site' generators are isolated / IT supply so not suited as such for multiple circuits. Larger ones usually have the N-E link internally so just need a suitable rod, most have 30mA RCDs so have the accumulated leackage risk (less if only a sub-set of cirucits powered) but then only need a rod with Ra <= 200 ohms.
Indicator lights at the changeover to show when mains power was restored… or is that a “nice to have”?
I don't think is is required by any regulations, but is such a good idea to have anyway!

Some indicators say they don't need a fuse but if in doubt then a small HRC fuse feeding it would make sense. Some use the usual 20 x 5mm fuses but they are lucky to meet 1.5kA breaking, or you can look for the BS88 style as they are often >= 50kA rated.
 
Then there’s the earthing. Will I need to stake next to where the genny is, or does the genny give its own as part of the neutral… does it have to be a specific type of generator, or just a standard building site machine
for that the loading a descant one is needed ,it depends on the generator.
[ElectriciansForums.net] Generator back up for house
 
Had a look this morning, and the customer isnt adverse to spending a few bob.

He's going to be ordering a genny at ÂŁ1500 anyway... One like the pic on Buzz's post above.
6kW, with 32A hookup on the 230v side.

They work from home, so there would be computers and broadband hub over the general lighting, fridge freezer and possibly electric hob... which i said, use only one, and not at the same time as kettle.

I was thinking a 4mm T&E run behind the kitchen kickboard to an outside wall, drill through and a BS4343 32A plug on the wall.
He would want the generator, however to be sighted away from here, as neighbours bedroom window is only 2m away... So a trailing extension lead from here to the genny, roughly 10m away
Also, the plug would be close to his outside oil boiler... there is a 10mm bonding conductor from the copper pipe back to the MET from here.
Bond between plug and pipe?

As the changeover switch needs to carry the load of the property in normal use, need to go with 100A, as i dont know the main fuse size...

So this?

With an enclosure containing a 32A MCB on the generator source... (although will the generator have that built in?)

There's already Henley blocks and a service isolator in the mains supply... and no problems with space.

And i'll mark up the existing CU to say which circuits are more vital than others.
 
They used to do a 100a twin or 4 pole main switch change over assembly that was two main switches linked together, one was upside down to the other so when one was on the other was off as a change over switch. I haven't seen one for ages and not sure how safe this set up is?! A 3 position switch is a much better option!
 
They used to do a 100a twin or 4 pole main switch change over assembly that was two main switches linked together, one was upside down to the other so when one was on the other was off as a change over switch. I haven't seen one for ages and not sure how safe this set up is?! A 3 position switch is a much better option!
TLC Electrical do a 125A c/o switch for ÂŁ82.80 plus vat.It comprises a 4 pole 125A switch with suitable links.
Comes in a metal din enclosure.
Regards,
S
 
Thanks @sinewove hadn't seen them on there! I found one here

The only thing I don't like about them is there is no proper off position. On the rotary ones I have fitted they have on mains off Center and on generator, I prefer this as there is a definite off between the change over.

Ps just remembered that I fitted the TLC 63a rotary one some time ago on a farm and it was good quality and nice to fit too!
This one

Should imagine the 32a one is of a similar standard!
Sy
 

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