Getting across ceiling joists from below - tricks of the trade.

FatAlan

FatAlan

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In the day and age of ..how many downlights can we get into one house, I'm intrigued to know what tricks / techniques folks use to install multiple downlights into an existing ceiling in replacement of a central pendant. In particular, once having located the joists, how do you get the cables across or through the joists with minimal damage to the ceiling? Is it a case of just cutting an access hole in the ceiling across the bottom of the joist so that you can see both sides with enough space to drill a hole (building regs compliant). Does anyone cut small notches and protect with steel plates for instance?
 
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devil's advocate...... if a prescribed zone in a wall is directly inline with accessories, cables < 50mm deep, why is a route between 2 downlights in a ceiling not permitted as a zone, when the cables are just above board (<50mm)?????
 
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Leesparkykent said:
by the time you’ve piddled around making holes, repairing holes, filling, sanding, painting etc it would be quicker and a superior finish to cut a length of the existing board out, opposite to the way the joists are running, run cables in and overboard the whole ceiling and tape and joint it.
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Obviously the idea is you never get involved in the sanding and painting of the job, thats explained to the customer day dot. thats their look out to redecorate

You talking probably 3-4 holes for 6 downlighters max, the holes get replaced and the cuts get filled, job done walk away, everyones happy, you get paid

If the customer chooses to re-skim the ceiling then thats up to them surely and doesnt delay you getting paid

convince me, that will not ALWAYS be quicker, tidier and cheaper for everyone involved than re-boarding/(re-coving?), skimming and repainting a whole ceiling, considering its likely to be working above kitchens/bathroom suites that are not being replaced

then coming back to 2nd fix

your just making a load of hard work for yourself, and potentially pricing yourself out of the job!
 
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Welchyboy1 said:
the idea is you never get involved in the sanding and painting of the job, thats explained to the customer day dot. thats their look out to redecorate

the holes get replaced and the cuts get filled, job done walk away, everyones happy, you get paid

considering its likely to be working in kitchens/bathrooms that are mostly not being replaced whilst using this method and the lighting is generally the only works being carried out

convince me, that will not ALWAYS be quicker, tidier and cheaper for everyone involved than re-boarding/(re-coving?), skimming and repainting a ceiling

your just making a load of hard work for yourself!
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I never said skim the ceiling I said tape and joint. The average bathroom is just shy of 4 square meters....2.88 square meters to a plaster board.

Two sheets of board £14
Jointing tape £3
Dry wall screws £4
Filler £9
Paint £10

Total. £40

Filling the holes

Jointing tape £3
Dry wall screws £4
Filler £9
Paint £10

Total £ 26

What other mess are you going to make either way you still have to sand and paint and you’ve already banged a hole saw through multiple times creating dust?

Both going to take roughly the same time to do......So for £14 extra you have a superior finish. I know what I would choose in my own house.

Why would you need to come back?
 
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Sorry but I don’t see it being cheaper and easier to give someone a new ceiling than repair
Leesparkykent said:
I never said skim the ceiling I said tape and joint. The average bathroom is just shy of 4 square meters....2.88 square meters to a plaster board.

Two sheets of board £14
Jointing tape £3
Dry wall screws £4
Filler £9
Paint £10

Total. £40

Filling the holes

Jointing tape £3
Dry wall screws £4
Filler £9
Paint £10

Total £ 26

What other mess are you going to make either way you still have to sand and paint and you’ve already banged a hole saw through multiple times creating dust?

Both going to take roughly the same time to do......So for £14 extra you have a superior finish. I know what I would choose in my own house.

Why would you need to come back?
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Not to argue, but I can’t put up a board by myself and as we all know, I’ve got no mates ...
 
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To repeat myself again, chose either method, whichever is appropriate. If I was doing a kitchen refurb for example, and other wiring was being altered, I'd remove a small section of board, mates or no mates. If was half dozen down lights, I'd cut circles.

Whatever, the client is responsible for making good to finish level, along with decorating, either taping & employing a plasterer or decorators etc.
 
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