Getting an Isolator fitted - With pics....

[jamesd123]

Hi Folks, First time post here.....

I'm about to start upgrading my kitchen - and I've got a few bits of wiring to sort. No big issue, but the main thing that needs doing is the backboard for the consumer unit needs changing. Reason being - there used to be an electric storage heating system fitted, with its own meter and CU. This has been removed, however the board is rotten and the old tails are still wired into the fusebox (but checked and and not live!) They are capped/taped up and just sitting behind the hole where the old heating CU was.

The old fusebox at the bottom - I assume to have ONLY the cutout fuse in it, and not an isolator switch?

I Guess the problem here is the tails up to the consumer unit are constant live, and without removing the CU, I'll not be able to change that back board.

Option 1 : Cut the seal on the fuse box and(I assume) cutout fuse, Fit an DP 100a isolator switch, and then go safely about the jobs I need to do.

Option 2 : Contact my energy supplier who will fit an isolator switch for just £60 -however its a 4 week wait, and that will essentially hold my kitchen up for those 4 weeks.

I'm open to any suggestions or advice (other than working it live.....)

 

[buzzlightyear]

I'm about to start upgrading my kitchen - and I've got a few bits of wiring to sort. No big issue, but the main thing that needs doing is the backboard for the consumer unit needs changing

are you a spark?

 

[DPG]

No-one is going to suggest that you do it live!

 

[jamesd123]

are you a spark?

but this isn't my first rodeo ;-)

For reference, I have a spark who will be coming to do some rewiring once its ready/isolated etc

 

[Pete999]

James, in all honesty you shouldn't be trying to do this work, it's to complicated and dangerous for a DIYer to attempt, do yourself a favour and get an Electrician in to sort that mess out for you

 

[buzzlightyear]

but this isn't my first rodeo ;-)

For reference, I have a spark who will be coming to do some rewiring once its ready/isolated etc

you start playing with that my friend. by better order a pine box .

 

[MJPD29]

Wait for the energy supplier to do it.

 

[jamesd123]

you start playing with that my friend. by better order a pine box .

PINE? Cheeky sod, Mahogany for me!

Again, I wasn't intending on pulling the cutout fuse myself! I'm well aware of the dangers thanks.

Part of the issue here is the SP seals - And the 4 week wait for my energy supplier to fit a simple isolation switch. The few sparks I have asked, including the one I intend to move things about, pretty much refuse to touch the SP seals.

 

[telectrix]

The few sparks wimpsI have asked, including the one I intend to move things about, pretty much refuse to touch the SP seals.

corrected that for you

 

[jamesd123]

The few sparks wimpsI have asked, including the one I intend to move things about, pretty much refuse to touch the SP seals.

corrected that for you

To be fair, it's all very well them cutting the seals and saying it'll be fine, but it's me that needs to deal with the DNO when it comes to meter reading etc.

 

[AJshep]

Until the Electric company start installing DP isolators I will continue to cut the seals. I'm not working live and to be honest how are they going to prove it ?
Even if i was the last in whos to prove the meter guy crimpped the seal properly in the first place?

It's a good excuse though if I ever want to delay a job for a few month's.

 

[Des 56]

This is the second time in the last few days someone mentions a "isolator required"and getting panicky about seals
Why should fitting a isolator involve anything to do with seals

Thats 2 lucrative jobs that could have come my way in a short time There must surely be a few bob in this fitting of isolators lark

 

[Gavin John Hyde]

pulling a modern fuse is not an issue really assuming no load on it, but some of them old ones are a bit iffy at best and even the DNO wont pull them before cutting the supply outside and would rather install a new service head, which says how dangerous they think it is!
If you got one of the really old ceramic and asbestos ones, then i would never even consider touching that for a couple hundred quid job, my life is worth considerably more!

 

[jamesd123]

So I've gone with the safe option - My supplier are arranging an install of a isolator before xmas. Slightly better time frame than first though.

Should allow us to change the back plate quickly and safely, and then allow the consumer unit to be changed over should need be.

Thanks for the input folks - Looks like I'll not need the marigolds after all ;-)

 

[camerabloke]

I can’t see any seals on that fuse perhaps the fuse fairy’s came

 

[PEG]

Last DNO isolator fitting cafuffle,i was embroiled in,was 2 weeks ago,where a cheerful and affable young meter/isolator fitter,genuinely did not know how to configure a 4 pole device on an RHT meter.

After a short,tense exchange of views,i drew him a quick sketch,explaining how the situation,he was convinced would arise...was NOT the case.

He had a brief head-in-hands moment...then jacked,and the job got passed to a "more experienced" isolator magician.

Bearing in mind,the number of meter changes that are done...and will have to be re-done and done again...before the meter,would be an ideal position,but they don't agree...wonder why?

 

[Deleted member 26818]

Weird, I had to wear some of those rubber gloves on a job quite recently.
Damned if I can remember what the job was.

 

[DPG]

Cleaning the loo?

 

[Percyprod]

If the board is the actual meter board ie property of dno they will change it for free if it is rotten, used to get lots of these either wet rot or woodworm. Usually done within a couple of days. I always used to carry isolator switches, and would fit one if the consumer asked, for free! Ain't I the good guy?

 

[PEG]

Lads who came to one of my jobs,to swap out an old fused neutral cut-out,didn't have any board,with them,despite the previous inspector having been told it was rotten...

The two lads were great,they removed the cut-out and made safe,then i fitted a nice piece of phenolic bonded resin board,a bit taller,to improve fitting of extra items.

They then fitted the new cut-out and isolator...lovely job,in an hour and a quarter,NorthWest Electric's finest hour

 

[Percyprod]

Great stuff Peg, guess which ndo I worked for!

 

[alasdairp]

A couple of years ago when modernising my isolated cottage (orig part where the electric comes in dates from c. 1825) in rural SW Scotland, I needed to have "my" electricity pole moved (it was in the way of some new foundations). The DNO wanted to get the OH supply undergrounded from the 11kV transformer, instead of moving the pole, as the LV connection went over the unclassified ("C") roadway. Eventually they agreed to pay for the u/g road crossing and I would pay for the u/g feed to the cottage. The meter also needed moving a few feet. They wrote and said that "I would need them (SPEN), British Gas (my electricity supplier) and also an independent electrician to install need tails to the CU all on site at the same time"... When they turned up to install the cable head they said "we can't do that as you should have supplied a mounting board for this and for the meter and isolating switch". Luckily I had a board prepared (but not installed as I thought they would fit a board). All went well in the end with just me and them on site (!) and is now fully inspected, tested and certified. My point, with this long ramble, is that the meter is rarely (if ever) the property of the DNO, but your electricity supplier. Most (if not all) DNOs are not allowed to sell electricity. So changes to the Main Fuse / Isolator (if fitted) are done by the DNO and the electricity supplier to the property is responsible for supplying / changing / moving the electricity meter. That complicates things.

 

[jamesd123]

Thanks for all the Input above.

On a different note.....

105v between the consumer unit earth and the incoming earth...Likely just induced voltage? My meter sees 105v, but it won't light a bulb etc.

It was only noticed when moving an earth lead to make room for new 10mm bonding to incoming water and CH bonding.

 

[Midwest]

You said '

For reference, I have a spark who will be coming to do some rewiring once its ready/isolated etc

Now you're inside the CU, messing around

 

[jamesd123]

Nope.

No need to open the CU. The old damaged earth bond from the incoming water pipe connects at earth on the size if the fusebox. As does the CU earth. Hence no need to open the CU.

Thanks, though.

Back to the question. 105v induced? I think the first lighting circuit adds 45v, and the upstairs and downstairs rings about 30ish v, the downstairs lighting circuit about 20ish v, and the others bring it to around 105v.

 

[Midwest]

James, we might appear a bit cynical and bombastic, but I think you should get an electrician in. This is starting to develop into a step by step guide.

 

[DPG]

You've got a fault which you don't know how to diagnose. This should point you towards the fact that you need a sparky to look at it.

I'm all for a bit of diy, but this needs proper test gear and the knowhow to interpret the results.

 

[jamesd123]

The spark IS coming - likey to fit a new CU and safety test/cert. I'm sure he'll be able to clarify it as induced voltage.

Anyhow. Thanks again for all the helpful input.

 

[DPG]

Cool. Let us know the outcome.