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Discuss Getting Power to sofa in middle of lounge in the Talk Electrician area at ElectriciansForums.net

Here ye gan!!!

Just park this behind the sofa & plug it in.




[ElectriciansForums.net] Getting Power to sofa in middle of lounge

nice to see you promoting british made gear. :33:
 
just a quick update and it looks like I will be renting a thermal image camera and taking on the floor challenge - screed is apparently 100mm thick and it is 16mm pipe system, so with a wall chaser set at 30mm and spending some time surveying all should be well.

Thanks to all for the helpful and not so helpful but amusing suggestions
 
just a quick update and it looks like I will be renting a thermal image camera and taking on the floor challenge - screed is apparently 100mm thick and it is 16mm pipe system, so with a wall chaser set at 30mm and spending some time surveying all should be well.

Thanks to all for the helpful and not so helpful but amusing suggestions

I hope you are getting very well paid, you are a brave man.


More often than not the pipe will be within the lower third of the slab, but there will be plenty of places (in between the fixings) where it will be a lot higher - if you start with a stone cold slab you should be able to highlight these high spots with the TIC, don't be surprised if there are lots of them - but if you pick a route that mostly runs parallel to the pipe you should avoid having to hand chisel - good luck.
 
I wouldn't be touching this one. Some customers have a weird perception of what our job entails.
its a bit like asking a taxi driver to drive you through London but stating you don't. Want to see another bit of traffic!!
 
just a quick update and it looks like I will be renting a thermal image camera and taking on the floor challenge - screed is apparently 100mm thick and it is 16mm pipe system, so with a wall chaser set at 30mm and spending some time surveying all should be well.

Thanks to all for the helpful and not so helpful but amusing suggestions

IF it is 100mm,and IF the 16mm pipe is centrally run,or below,that gives you 42mm clearance...much less,where the poker has dislodged a section...

If you have to do it,and heaven knows why...get a thermal camera,or even a laser thermometer,run UFH up to maximum temp,and chalk out runs.

Brighter images,or higher/wider thermal readings will give rough indication of pipes being closer to the surface.

Plan cable containment run (coz your NOT just running in the cable...)so it runs parallel and off,any pipe.

You may have to straddle 1,2 or 3 pipes to get where you are feeding cable,but i would do these small sections by HAND.

Get your chaser,set it to 50 or 60mm wide,and the depth to 2mm. Use a guide or rule,to ensure straightness. Chase out your run,doing the bits missed,by hand,like a stone-mason.

Reset your chaser,to the depth and width,of your cable/containment +2mm. Chase out centrally,using again,a guide.

This will give you three benefits.

1) You/others will have future access to the cable,which should be fine,protected by its' steel lid.

2) If the cable is removed,remedial work to re-screed is easy,without having to leave a redundant cable stuck in position.

3) You will have a sizable amount of remuneration at your disposal,due to your customer having to increase their expenditure on this project,to not only include the cost of an electrician,but also the efforts of an engineer,design consultant and stone-mason.

I wish you every success,and if i had one more tip,to add,it would be RIGHT at the start,go to the UFH manifold,determine the exact size and type of pipework,and have at your disposal,a piece to match,and two straight couplers!
 
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never mind a chaser. i'd not touch it with a barge pole. walk away is my advice.
 
I would entertain this particular job. Pegs post #26 is excellent advice. I would set out in writing what you plan to do, and get signed consent/agreement from the client that they are happy with your proposal. This would include the relevant information about what you have been informed about the depth of the pipework.

I think the hardest bit may be per Peg's last suggestion; may be troublesome finding a small repair section if needed.
 
Yes,taking it the job on,would depend on the split between adventure,and remuneration. Most lads concentrating on the latter!

To ease that repair task,one of the couplers,dependent on type,would maybe need adapting to a "slip" type,to limit excavation...:chinese:
 

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