Grid wiring in a kitchen ring

T

Tasty

Hello for the second time today!I've been asked to install 2, 2 gang switches in a kitchen, which will switch the fixed appliances such as dishwasher etc. Now i've not used modular switches yet but from what I can make out they're pretty straight forward. My question is about integrating them into the kitchen ring, as I was planning on looping in & out much like a socket, then having the appliance wiring drop down from each switch, similar to a spur. However in order to have the switches on the ring, I'm assuming i'll have to bridge between the two individual switches inside each panel. Am I correct in this line of thinking? As always, any replies much appreciated! :) cheers
 
You can wire it as you say, although you will have to use connector blocks for the neutral, and may have to connect four CPCs into one terminal at the grid.
Another way would be to loop into each fuse with the ring line conductors.
Then connect one side of the CPC at the grid, onto the first socket, then to the next and connect the other side of the ring CPC at the second socket.
With the neutral, one side of the ring into the first socket, on to the next and the other side of the ring connected to the second socket.
 
You can wire it as you say, although you will have to use connector blocks for the neutral, and may have to connect four CPCs into one terminal at the grid.
Another way would be to loop into each fuse with the ring line conductors.
Then connect one side of the CPC at the grid, onto the first socket, then to the next and connect the other side of the ring CPC at the second socket.
With the neutral, one side of the ring into the first socket, on to the next and the other side of the ring connected to the second socket.

I think the OP has 4 grid switches (2 x 2 gang). Each 2 gang switch will have 2 separate drops to 1 gang sockets to plug appliances in.

If this is the case then his original way of wiring it up is correct, simply linking switch 1 to switch 2 in each grid.
 
Ok, I think I follow you, however I'm assuming this is based on using single pole switches. I was hoping to use double pole, meaning no connector blocks for neutral, although I guess I can't avoid the CPC block still :(
 
Like this...

2x2GangGridSwitches.jpg
 
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Thanks both! My original reply was actually to the SpinLondon, I got you straight away Jud. Thanks for the help. I'm working on my own at the moment, so it really helps to have people to bounce ideas around with!
 
There's no need to use fuses as each switch only supplies 1 outlet. Each switch is effectively an unfused switched spur feeding 1 outlet.
Don't know if I like the sound of that.
Normally the device used (when not a grid switch) is an FCU above the counter, with an unswitched single socket beneath the counter.
If as you say (and too be honest I can't actually think of a reason to disagree) fuses are not necessary, then there is no need for an FCU to be used above a counter, a 20A switch would be sufficient.
 
Don't know if I like the sound of that.
Normally the device used (when not a grid switch) is an FCU above the counter, with an unswitched single socket beneath the counter.
If as you say (and too be honest I can't actually think of a reason to disagree) fuses are not necessary, then there is no need for an FCU to be used above a counter, a 20A switch would be sufficient.

What is it you don't like the sound of?

There was a similar thread to this not long ago.

http://www.electriciansforums.net/e...gulations/36758-light-switches-isolators.html

FCUs feeding single socket outlets for appliances are pointless and do not comply with 536.1 because you would have 2 x 13A fuses in series (1 in the FCU and 1 in the plug top of the device) and there would be no discrimination between the 2.

536.1 states that in the event of a fault only the device that is intended to operate should do so.

I assumed the grid switches in the OP are 20A DP switches.
 
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I'm not sure if I like the sound of it, insofar as it's not the done thing.
However, as you quite rightly say, there is no point in having two 13A fuses in series.
 
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Tasty,
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andrew692003,
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