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IAmSparkytus!

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Morning all!

Just been having a quick flick through some threads and enjoying all the good advice being offered to many people on a variety of topics!

While flicking I've also noticed info on earthing nuts and wiska gland plates which have blown my mind as it seems I'm currently still stuck in the dark ages using banjos for all SWA installations.

To add to this I've only not long ago started using wagos instead of connector block...

This has made me want to ask whether there are any other really simple (probably second nature now to you all) materials/accessories and tools which would make commercial fit outs easier and simpler?

Thanks all, have a good day!
 
They look the dogs proverbials! - They are.
How much do they cost? - See link below.
Do they only connect 2 twin and earths - Up to 4, see link below.
or can they connect say 2 twin and earths along with a flex to a light fitting for example? - See link below.
And do they make them for 3 core and earth? - Not yet.
See responses inserted above.

 
Have been thinking about getting a torque screwdriver recently. Can you recommend one? Are they expensive?

I'm a nightmare for losing tools so tend to avoid screwdriver sets with interchangeable heads!

Im also interested to know, and you'll probably be able to tell me, whether the torque drivers make things more or less tight than someone would tend to make things with a standard screwdriver?
The Wiha one is very good, goes from 1nm-5nm I find its handy for double checking everything is good, I do all connections with just a normal screwdriver then nip them up with the torque screwdriver that way no connection is missed.
 
The Wiha one is very good, goes from 1nm-5nm I find its handy for double checking everything is good, I do all connections with just a normal screwdriver then nip them up with the torque screwdriver that way no connection is missed.
I must admit I don't own a torque screwdriver , but do keep one eye on ebay for one going cheap.
I have borrowed one to use but never felt like parting with ÂŁ100 just for one
 
I must admit I don't own a torque screwdriver , but do keep one eye on ebay for one going cheap.
I have borrowed one to use but never felt like parting with ÂŁ100 just for one

Might be worth keeping an eye on Amazon warehouse deals. Quality stuff isn't usually discounted too much, but if it sits for a while there can be some decent bargains.
 
You may already have one, but the endoscope cameras for 30 to 50 euro are worth their weight in gold for domestic work. Being able to see what's above a ceiling or under a floor, in a stud wall, BEFORE drilling gives, great piece of mind.
I'm looking at getting one of these. I'm considering the "depstech wifi camera". (The Ferret Camera looks awesome but can't justify that money really.)
 
I must admit I don't own a torque screwdriver , but do keep one eye on ebay for one going cheap.
I have borrowed one to use but never felt like parting with ÂŁ100 just for one
I bought a cheap one (35 ish from memory at an Elex some years ago from one of the small tool suppliers there - Felo - a German make, with some long insulated bits, but they are getting a bit worn - It seems to take standard 1/4 hex bits, but the trouble is now that no-one seems to do insulated bits that fit it. (The Wiha slim torque are close but not close enough annoyingly).

Only does up to 3Nm though - some of the makes seem to require ridiculously high figures that anyone would struggle to achieve without the mcb breaking apart....
 
Have been thinking about getting a torque screwdriver recently. Can you recommend one? Are they expensive?

I've started using one of these recently, initially for CU terminals but find it handy for umpteen jobs. Adjustable torque upto 5Nm too.

 
As an Amazon Associate Electricians Forums may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases.

Do you find that the terminals are tighter now than what they used to be when you would tighten them with a normal driver?
 
As an Amazon Associate Electricians Forums may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases.
I bought a cheap one (35 ish from memory at an Elex some years ago from one of the small tool suppliers there - Felo - a German make, with some long insulated bits, but they are getting a bit worn - It seems to take standard 1/4 hex bits, but the trouble is now that no-one seems to do insulated bits that fit it. (The Wiha slim torque are close but not close enough annoyingly).

Only does up to 3Nm though - some of the makes seem to require ridiculously high figures that anyone would struggle to achieve without the mcb breaking apart....

So what do you in that instance?
 
Do you find that the terminals are tighter now than what they used to be when you would tighten them with a normal driver?
Probably not TBH but tried tugging a few out without success!
So what do you in that instance?
Use the GO upto 5Nm then by hand. Some 7.5Nm but not seen many electrical equipment any higher that I can recall. Perhaps there would be if terminating to a 132kV network for example?
 
Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.

On a separate note, I recently was alerted by a poster here to a multitool blade for cutting plaster and brick. The pictures of the cutout box looked really neat. That's the next buy on my list
The Armeg hole saws don't appear to need as much torque to drive them, my Makita 10.8v drill or impact will quite happily cut a good number of hole before the battery needs charging
 
Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.
I think its just the speed, they are designed for higher speeds that the impact can deliver.
My impact rarely cuts in to impact mode when using the armeg or similar (Starrett) holesaws.
 
Am curious about the Armeg "impact" holesaws. In what way do they differ from standard holesaws?.
As other have already said, does the job well using the impact driver with 1/4" hex drive (just like the hex-shafted drill bits, easy to use if a touch less precise then traditional 3-jaw centring chuck).

But key thing is it won't go all the way through, so less risk of damage to stuff on the other side. Yes, you still need check it will clear stuff, and the risk of swarf or the spring-ejected disk have to be allowed for.

The resulting hols are quite clean, not as good as a hole punch (still have & use them), but better than I had anticipated from a hole saw.
 
Have been thinking about getting a torque screwdriver recently. Can you recommend one? Are they expensive?

I'm a nightmare for losing tools so tend to avoid screwdriver sets with interchangeable heads!
This is the one I got, fairly easy to use but can't compare to any other VDE rated ones as only one i have.

I also have a metal 1/4" square drive 'screwdriver' style torque wrench for lower values, and both 1/4" and 3/8" drive toque wrenches going up to 25Nm (and 1/2" for 120Nm or something). While I have used them for electrical terminals I feel very uneasy as gripping a good solid connection on what could be live. Yes, I did my safe isolation procedure, but it still feels wrong not to be using insulated tools!

If I did more general sparky work I would pony up the several ÂŁ100 to get insulated versions, as even if the terminals I am working on are dead, there is a risk of dropping the tool on to something live and high current leading to a nasty arc-flash incident.

Im also interested to know, and you'll probably be able to tell me, whether the torque drivers make things more or less tight than someone would tend to make things with a standard screwdriver?
I find for the lower torque terminals, say around 1.2Nm, it is not much tighter than my own hand-feel would go, but for the top end at 3nm (or more with the socket style wrench) it is higher than I would normally risk going, though that is the manufacturer's recommendation.

For the Hager/Schneider/Wylex stuff it was fine, for a cheap CPN brand MCB I had to play with it split the body as "recommended" torque.
 
The Wera bits are insulated and 9mm hex, so you can use a socket but it has to be deep! Otherwise you just screw off a cm of plastic off the end of the bit.

Found out the hard way using my 1/4" hex driver to do 5Nm :(

Need to get this:
 

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