Having a house re-wire, are old back boxes within new regs? | on ElectriciansForums

Discuss Having a house re-wire, are old back boxes within new regs? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi,

Glad to have found a good forum to ask my electric related questions.

So my property had old vir cables nearly throughout and ceramic fuses. The company doing the rewire is 3/4 of the way through, but I have a few questions.

1. Are the original light switch back boxes still under current regulations, it seems they haven’t replaced any of the old light switch back boxes?

2. I understand that there must be 3 sockets in each room now, is this absolutely mandatory as they have left one out so far of one of the rooms? I can have them put this in if absolutely necessary.

3. I have asked that they provide the certifications before I pay in full but they have said that I need to pay first. What are the industry standards on this?

Thank you...
 
1. Are the original light switch back boxes still under current regulations, it seems they haven’t replaced any of the old light switch back boxes?

As long as they're not made of wood and are still fit for purpose then there's no regulatory problem. I would personally recommend deeper backboxes on a rewire as modern accessories, USB sockets/Smart Light switches etc, often require a deeper box.

2. I understand that there must be 3 sockets in each room now, is this absolutely mandatory as they have left one out so far of one of the rooms? I can have them put this in if absolutely necessary.

Depends on the size of the room.

Living room up to 12m2 4 sockets, 12-25m2 6 sockets and more than 25m2 8 sockets, these are double outlets.

Dining room 3, 4 or 5.

Single bedroom 2, 3 or 4.

Kitchen 6, 8 or 10.

These are listed in Guidance Note 1. Table C2.

This should be been discussed and agreed before works started. My rule of thumb for socket-outlets is think of how many you need and double it.


3. I have asked that they provide the certifications before I pay in full but they have said that I need to pay first. What are the industry standards on this?

On completion of the works an electrical installation certificate should be raised with the appropriate schedule of inspections and test results for each distribution board installed. The installation isn't classed as complete until this has been handed to the person ordering the works.

As for payment, this should have been agreed in writing between yourself and the contractor before works start. Traditionally it would be 1/3 upfront, 1/3 on completion of first fix and final 1/3 on completion of works, but this would have to be agreed.
 
Hi and welcome to the forum.
My personal answer to your questions (as there is no other definitive answer unfortunately):

1. The back boxes for the lights. I would have expected there to have been a discussion on any possible reuse of original equipment. You should really have been given the opportunity to agree or disagree, before they went ahead.
As long as the boxes comply with current standards, which they may well do, they could be reused. It's possible that they're physically connected to the old metal conduit, and to remove them would create more work for the plasterer.

2. The number of sockets per room should have been agreed beforehand. The only guidance concerning this is just that - guidance. No absolute regulations.

3. Certificates issued on receipt of payment.
There are mixed views on this. Some would argue that the installation is not complete without the proper certification being issued, and there is some validity to this argument. Others would withhold certificates until payment is received, as a means of ensuring payment is fully and duly made. As it happens, my own company policy allows me to issue certificates only when I have been paid in full. In practice, however, I have not had to enforce this policy as I have usually been able to build a sufficient rapport and trust with my clients.

I hope this helps, but I don't believe you will get the firm fixed answers you're looking for.
 
I cannot see back boxes been a issue ?
If its your house, not going to a student rental type set up and the fact its not a new built there should be no requirement to have x amount etc ?

As for certs .They are not a EXTRA in a job. They are part of the job/works etc . Payment is due on completion but possibly subject to any terms you agreed to etc
 
Hi and welcome
1. Are the original light switch back boxes still under current regulations, it seems they haven’t replaced any of the old light switch back boxes?
As long as they metal and not corroded and are functional there is no compelling reason to replace them, in fact replacing them usually causes a fair bit of collateral damage. So no big concern. Sometimes larger ones are needed these days for e.g. dimmer switches. and ideally this would have been a conversation before they started.

2. I understand that there must be 3 sockets in each room now
Neither BS7671 or building regs has hard and fast rules on this, there is a guidance document but this can be departed from, you are the customer!
3. I have asked that they provide the certifications before I pay in full but they have said that I need to pay first. What are the industry standards on this?
I'm afraid there is no consistent standard, plenty do it both ways.
 
As previously said,
The boxes (assume not old wooden ones), need to be deep enough to accommodate accessories used today, eg. dimmers, flat plate, incorporating USB etc.

There is guidance on number of sockets (1double = 2 outlets according to the guidance) but as said not mandatory.

As for certification, there has to be mutual trust; I know where contractors have been 'stitched up' when handing over certificate and then not receiving final payment but also 'rogue' contractors not forwarding certificates (If done at all?) once final payment received.
 
If the boxes are as old as the VIR, then the screws that go with them are probably imperial. Screws that fit can be obtained, but they won't be the ones that come with the fittings.
If the light switch boxes have plastic inserts for the screws, the plastic will be brittle, and likely cause problems when the new fittings are screwed back.
 
Just to add for the OP's benefit it would be 4BA screws needed. That said it would probably be the sparks issue to solve not his.
Sometimes an M3.5 re-tapping tool leaves enough bite for modern screws, seems to depend on how close to the maximum tolerance the 4BA was tapped.
 
Thank you for the responses.

There was no communication regarding some of the finer details. As it’s my first rewire I would not have known to ask.

There was a serious communication error their end between the person who estimated the job and the person who drew up the quote, resulting in a quote much lower than they would usually charge, and then they consequently said they wouldn’t be coming to do the job because of this.

I understand that mistakes do happen so I asked that they still come the next day, as arranged, and the owner call me to discuss the price. He gave me obviously a new higher quote but he was being very fair and reasonable with the quote and I didn’t argue it. At the end of the day I run a small business and mistakes happen, it’s how these things are dealt with that’s important to me.

I am going to suggest that I go to their premises and pay them when I see the certificates, this seems like a reasonable suggestion to me.

I’m hoping to renovate more properties in the coming years as I think I’m enjoying it so we’ll see how it goes.
 
Just to add for the OP's benefit it would be 4BA screws needed. That said it would probably be the sparks issue to solve not his.
Sometimes an M3.5 re-tapping tool leaves enough bite for modern screws, seems to depend on how close to the maximum tolerance the 4BA was tapped.
Or they might just nip the 3.5mm screws up just enough to hold the plates in place until the bill is paid.
 
Some very good detailed awnsers, Hopefully all good in end.

I would want.new back boxes, If its getting plastered anyway.
Yeah all being skim plastered. Next time I’ll make sure it all gets new. I suppose they have to come and rectify any issues that may arise, although as I’m hoping to sell in the next 2 months I hope that can be avoided.
 
Welcome to the forum mate.
Changing a consumer unit falls under Part P and is notifiable work.
Are they notifying your local building control body?
 
Welcome to the forum mate.
Changing a consumer unit falls under Part P and is notifiable work.
Are they notifying your local building control body?
They should be. I’m not going to pay until I see the building control and installation certificate. I will go to their premises and when I see them I will pay. I think that’s entirely reasonable.
 

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