Heating Engineer set me a challenge

[Guitarist]

Just to elaborate on my original post....
I tried all manner of wiggling, tilting and easing...but all to no avail. The pipework was so tightly pressed against the plugtop that you couldn't get a piece of paper between them.
In the end, I hack-sawed through the plug, removed it in pieces, and fitted a new surface-mount socket a few inches higher.

 

[Geordie Spark]

Just to elaborate on my original post....
I tried all manner of wiggling, tilting and easing...but all to no avail. The pipework was so tightly pressed against the plugtop that you couldn't get a piece of paper between them.
In the end, I hack-sawed through the plug, removed it in pieces, and fitted a new surface-mount socket a few inches higher.

So you couldn't find your lump hammer & bolster that day then??

 

[dan86]

with your insulated hacksaw of course?

 

[Guitarist]

with your insulated hacksaw of course?

Of course, and I put on a full visor and 1000v insulated gauntlets....although I had disconnected the circuit in the CU beforehand, so I wasn't expecting the RCD to have to do it's job on this occasion.

 

[telectrix]

chicken! :rolleyes2:

 

[dan86]

my thoughts entirely

 

[Guitarist]

Haha, yeah. Like I'd wear all that lot after disconnecting and proving isolation

 

[chris murphy]

still, if it's a -----up between having your ear drums abused or paying 30 quid for a bottle of inhibitor, i know which one i'd go for.

"Hello shagbite",

I am NOT trying to state that what I described is definitely the way to unplug from a Socket outlet in this kind of position - BUT I have yet to read any Valid criticism of what I described as a first TRY.


Without wanting to annoy any Members I am guessing that Guitarist looked at something similar to what I described before having to Cut the Plugs and remove them in pieces - there was obviously NOT as much `room` between the Plugs and the Pipes as it looked in the Photo.


Draining down a Heating System - Disconnecting the Boiler Pipework - Removing the Plugs - Refilling the Heating System adding Corrosion Inhibitor [+ £30.00] and then running the Heating for Hours / Venting the Radiators and having to then revisit the location in a couple of Days - IF the Heating has been able to be On for a few periods [obviously NOT in Summer] to Re-Vent the Radiators is MUCH more time consuming and Expensive than what I previously described that I would TRY first.


It is NOT just the £30.00 for the Inhibitor to take into consideration.

Regards,


Chris

 

[pennywise]

I wouldn't even touch it, get the guy back charge the customer for lost time or a call out and suggest they counter charge the plumbing contractor.

 

[chris murphy]

I wouldn't even touch it, get the guy back charge the customer for lost time or a call out and suggest they counter charge the plumbing contractor.

"Hello pennywise",


I was writing from the imaginary position of actually being involved on a Job where these Plugs had to be removed.

Ideally of course an Electrician would be engaged IF I did not want to Drain down the Heating System - but as You know this is not always possible at short notice.


Obviously if I were just visiting or carrying out other Works My involvement in something like this would have to authorised and be paid for.


But IF an Electrician was not available I would still try what I originally described first.


For Safety I would isolate ALL Electrical Power to the premises rather than relying on isolating a Ring or Radial Circuit - and also check that the Boiler / Heating Controls were not energised in order to ensure that there was no power to these Socket outlets / Plugs.

Although obviously turning off the Main Isolating Switch on the Consumer Unit SHOULD isolate all Electrical Power to the premises.


Regards,


Chris

 

[pennywise]

A plumber with a freezing kit should take no more than an hour to remove the pipes and alter the pipe work. .

 

[chris murphy]

A plumber with a freezing kit should take no more than an hour to remove the pipes and alter the pipe work. .

"Hello again pennywise",


When I have mentioned several times what I would TRY regarding removing these Plugs this was NOT to try and state that I know more than an Electrician about this particular task - But now You are trying to put it across that You know better than Me - a Heating Engineer - How to go about disconnecting the Boiler Pipework etc.


Where is there room to Freeze the Flow and Return Pipes at the Boiler ?

Please don`t write at lower level as We don`t know how the Pipework is configured lower down.

I know that You have never seen a `Plumber` Freezing Pipework adjacent to a Central Heating Boiler for this kind of purpose.

IF I ever ARGUED a point about Electrical Work on here with Electricians I would end up looking very `ignorant` about Electrical Installations.

Developing this into an `Argument` with Me - a Heating Engineer - is NOT likely to result in You looking `knowledgeable` about Central Heating Systems / Boilers - let Me assure You of that.


Let alone trying to tell Me about a `Plumber` Freezing the Boiler Pipework - `disconnecting it`- removing the Plugs - reconnecting the Pipework !


IF You want to `reprimand Me` about what I wrote - Please give Me some constructive `criticism` on what I described that I would TRY in my previous message.


I am fully aware of ensuring that there is no Electrical Power to the Socket outlets before attempting ANY method of removing these Plugs - which is why I wrote that I would turn off ALL Power at the Consumer Unit - just to be completely Safe - even then I would check the Boiler / Heating System Controls were NOT receiving Power.


Regards,

Chris

 

[pennywise]

I'm not trying to have an argument with you about your technique in removing plugs, if my comments where originally aimed at you, I think I would have quoted you directly in the first place. I still would do as my first post

 

[shagbite]

"Hello shagbite",

I am NOT trying to state that what I described is definitely the way to unplug from a Socket outlet in this kind of position - BUT I have yet to read any Valid criticism of what I described as a first TRY.


Without wanting to annoy any Members I am guessing that Guitarist looked at something similar to what I described before having to Cut the Plugs and remove them in pieces - there was obviously NOT as much `room` between the Plugs and the Pipes as it looked in the Photo.


Draining down a Heating System - Disconnecting the Boiler Pipework - Removing the Plugs - Refilling the Heating System adding Corrosion Inhibitor [+ £30.00] and then running the Heating for Hours / Venting the Radiators and having to then revisit the location in a couple of Days - IF the Heating has been able to be On for a few periods [obviously NOT in Summer] to Re-Vent the Radiators is MUCH more time consuming and Expensive than what I previously described that I would TRY first.


It is NOT just the £30.00 for the Inhibitor to take into consideration.

Regards,


Chris

chris, relax man. i don't think i said anything about your socket idea; i was just offering a solution that hadn't been mentioned yet.

what you describe above does sound a lot more involved than having a go at the socket, but like i said, i thought we were just throwing out options on how to get it sorted. i wasn't trying to trump your suggestion.


but i do think 30 nicker for inhibitor is dear (unless you're getting a gallon). the last bottle i bought cost £7.99.

 

[ipf]

Hi Chris, again.
Take it easy, mate, not like you. Only opinions flying about.

My opinon....send for Spud, without all the trimmings! lol!