Heatmiser Wireless System

[Taylortwocities]

Is there an echo in here…?

 

[telectrix]

think we all got it the first time.

 

[Uheat – Jake]

Just spoke to Uheat, very helpful and trying to sort my order out!

Glad to hear you ordered with ourselves, if you need any help then feel free to give us a call.

Can only praise the new heatmiser systems, very popular and offers a lot of options.

 

[Darkwood]

Dear Darkwood,
Thank you for your concern.. Out of interest do you work for Heatmiser? Not sure why you vigorously defend them.
To come back to you on the points you raise, so that the Forum are well informed. I have called their Technical guys many times, who in general are helpful and knowledgeable. However, it is evident from speaking to a number of them that the have a know fault on the board. After several lengthy discussions, with a qualified electrician and a plumber, who were both present and being paid by myself, having sent over 10 hours trying to get the Heatmiser system to work, the technician declared that it might be a relay issue on the circuit board.
So I then had to send the unit back for further investigation.. It then took Heatmiser 6 weeks to send the unit back to me... Can you imagine 6 weeks!! Lucky it was summer time.
For them only to declare that it was not the fault of the circuit board but that of the Pump that I had installed. What a red herring...
We have tried to re-install, it worked for 24 hours and then packed in.
Another called to Heatmiser technical team to announce that it might be an intermittent fault. You could not make this stuff up.
So now it winter, I have no heating in the house, and they refuse to send me a replacement. Rather they want me to send the unit back, for them to investigate it for 6 weeks, whilst I wait......
Like I said, if you are bout to choose a smart heating system, avoid Heatmiser.

No I have no connections with said company and at no point in my previous post was I defending them, I was giving an opinion based on the information you gave us, your post was a little ambiguous thus I suggested their comment to take it back to where you bought it was the better option here, if there technical support cannot help you then usually it does go back to point of sale which is what you said they told you.

As a member of the forum I was just looking out for your interests, it has been known in the past for members to make sweeping statements similar to yours due to a personal experience about a company and find themselves with lawyers on their backs and asking the Forum to remove all content. Like I said by all means express your personal experience but be careful you word you posts carefully in doing so.. it does seem you have been running around in circles like a headless chicken trying to sort this out and agree it doesn't reflect well on the company at all.

 

[dansk]

Hijacked a thread the other say which this is a follow on from which may make things easier, already had some good advice from @Leesparkykent which has resulted in my getting the plumber (my brother in law!) to agree to alter the alter the pipework so at least I am in with a fighting chance of installing this and it working

I am intending to fit a heatmiser UH8RF and two neoair stats, one to control an underfloor heating zone and one to control hot water and and the radiator zone. The reason I have chosen the UH8RF is that it is already RF and the 'customer' likes the look of the black neoair stats, I have spoken to heatmiser technical support and they tell me this should all work as I think it should, so far so good.

I have very limited knowledge of heating systems, am I likely I be able to fit all the incoming cables into the UH8RF wiring centre or am I likely to need some sort of a junction box also? I work out I should have boiler power, boiler pump power, UFH pump power, cylinder stat cable and 3 x zone valve cables.

My last question is can someone explain to me volt free switching, is it just a switch? Will sit and do the wiring diagram tonight if someone doesn't mind taking a look.

Hi - im sure this may sound like sucking eggs, but assuming your switching 230v to the boiler - just link from the incoming supply into common on the boiler terminal, then when wiring the zone valves dont use the grey and orange from the two port valves, just put L&N into the relevant actuator port and common the earths.

Dont forget when programming the Neo stat to choose "01" for Rads - this will prevent the UFH pump coming on when its not needed.

Another little tip: Sometimes the batterys dont make contact in the carrier (even though they look ok), just give them a good roll around and then the stat should come alive.

 

[rolyberkin]

Hopefully someone is out there....

I have a slight problem in that the cylinder stat I have needs a permanent live and earth, it then has a no and nc connection out, how do I connect the zone valve for the hw? Stumped!?

 

[Taylortwocities]

If you have an unvented cylinder then you'll also have to wire in the tank over temperature safety breaker too.

Live out from the HW controller in to the cylinder stat, out of that through safety trip switch and on to the DHW valve. Thats all there is to it.

 

[Leesparkykent]

Hopefully someone is out there....

I have a slight problem in that the cylinder stat I have needs a permanent live and earth, it then has a no and nc connection out, how do I connect the zone valve for the hw? Stumped!?

What cylinder thermostat is it mate?

 

[rolyberkin]

The hot water is being controlled from a neostat, all I have in the DH8RF is a hw c/no/nc connection. I have an esi 'smart stat'.

 

[Leesparkykent]

Permanent live and neutral to N and L, HW on/switched live from programmer/HW timer to common and normally open to brown of the hot water valve.

 

[rolyberkin]

Thanks, believe it or not had it wired like that but lacking in confidence Waiting for wet pants now hopefully it will all work, all a bit complicated, come back Honeywell all is forgiven!

 

[dansk]

onwards on and upwards from here! next will be easier ;-) anyway it's those daft new tank stats, 5 core need now instead of 3 core. I don't rate them tbh.

 

[Leesparkykent]

How did you get on mate?

 

[rolyberkin]

A mare, brother in law filled up and I remembered why we call him captain Leaky!,we are back tomorrow! I am still struggling to understand the wiring centre as it disables the UFH heating pump when just the hw or rad zones are on. I have it all connected up apart from the rad/ch pump (which I conveniently forgot!) I take I I just take this from the no boiler feed? My brain is fried, next week I am building myself a CH project board to get my head around all this!

 

[Leesparkykent]

A mare, brother in law filled up and I remembered why we call him captain Leaky!,we are back tomorrow! I am still struggling to understand the wiring centre as it disables the UFH heating pump when just the hw or rad zones are on. I have it all connected up apart from the rad/ch pump (which I conveniently forgot!) I take I I just take this from the no boiler feed? My brain is fried, next week I am building myself a CH project board to get my head around all this!

The UFH pump should only come on if the UFH is calling for heat. If the UFH is calling the primary pump and UFH pump should be running if either the hot water or rads are calling for heat or both are calling for heat at the same time then the primary pump should only be running. What boiler has been installed?