Help! Fuse board gone nuts - lights flickering on and off.

[drjarmin]

My electrician that wired up my house is on his hols so, although I helped, I am not a qualified electrician (which will become more than apparent) but hope someone can advise as I can't get hold of him. I think this is a simple issue to an expert.

First noticed an issue as the lights in the house started to flicker intermittently.

Went to the fuse box and can hear a noise coming from it. It seems when any significant amount of power is drawn, there is sparking on the newtral return bar (see picture).

The screws are tight so there should be a good connection. This set up is about 2 years old from installation.

I have shut down ALL circuits except for the fridge. Any advice please? Thanks.

Could it be down to oxidisation stopping a good connection? Something as simple as that?

 

[drjarmin]

Thanks. I'll leave it to the professionals but what should I be looking to get replaced? The mould does look much worse in the picture. It's usually where the cable has been touched so I think the tails should be fine.

It is a 3 phase board. Is the picture coming up small? I can post a clearer one. I reduced the resolution to save space.

 

[Des 56]

but what should I be looking to get replaced


Replaced ?
Re conditioning only more likely, to get back to its original standard perhaps

 

[mickys86]

Haven't read any posts, initial thoughts as I'm reading the first post is lose connection on the neutral

 

[pushrod]

Think you have had the right answers already #10 and #15. If you are not confident or don't have the right kit to do it you either have to sit tight or get someone else in.

 

[kamkam]

the bolt will seem tight because the arcing has more likely welded the bolt to the nut but still leaving a poor connection

 

[Short Circuit]

I think it does look like the neutral bar, with the little lug on that you can loosen to disconnect the supply neutral. Telectrix idea is the best one, before you cut the end off, make sure you can reconnect the cable in the bar further up. I would guess that the connection between the two has corroded through the humidity and made it get hot - not a difficult job to repair

 

[sparkie]

quite a tidy board apart from the prehistoric tails looks like your question has been answered for you pal. my first thoughts where a poor connection on the neutral bar.

 

[Sav]

Hi,
Sorry if itsa a dumb question, but is'nt the busbar supposed to be under the mcb and not on top ???
It looks like the cables are fed from the underneath.
Sorry if its a dumb question, or is it this type of Hager board?
thanks
Sav

 

[claire_r]

I was wondering where the main switches are? why there is no rcd ? and why the main tails go into the top of mcb, neutral bar and the buzbars are at the top? All looks a bit dodgy to me!

 

[Knobhead]

Whatever you do, don’t be fobbed off with it all needs replacing. Any electrician worth his salt would have that repaired inside an hour and have time to drink tea afterwards. (Well you’ve got to load test it with the kettle).

 

[mickys86]

DO SAFE ISOLATION PROCEDURES ON BOARD

YOU NEED TO BE A COMPETENT PERSON TO DO THIS.



IF YOU ARE NOT---CONSULT A COMPETENT PERSON----AN ELECTRICIAN WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA.

A LOOSE NEUTRAL WILL CAUSE MAJOR ARCING THE FAULT SHOULD BE APPARENT.

A LOOSE NEUTRAL CAN CAUSE MAJOR DAMAGE EVEN BURNING THROUGH THE ACTUAL BAR.

THE REMEDY SHOULD BE CLEAR-------REPLACE DAMAGED PARTS.

TEST THROUGH THE SEQUENCE OF TESTS AFTER THE REPAIR

UNLOCK YOU'RE PADLOCK WHICH WAS PUT ON IN THE SAFE ISOLATION PROCEDURE

AND THEN IF ALL IS SAFE-----RE-ENERGISE

my name is Kev and i'm an electrician

My name is Michael and I'm just the apprentice

 

[Knobhead]

DO SAFE ISOLATION PROCEDURES ON BOARD

YOU NEED TO BE A COMPETENT PERSON TO DO THIS.



IF YOU ARE NOT---CONSULT A COMPETENT PERSON----AN ELECTRICIAN WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA.

A LOOSE NEUTRAL WILL CAUSE MAJOR ARCING THE FAULT SHOULD BE APPARENT.

A LOOSE NEUTRAL CAN CAUSE MAJOR DAMAGE EVEN BURNING THROUGH THE ACTUAL BAR.

THE REMEDY SHOULD BE CLEAR-------REPLACE DAMAGED PARTS.

TEST THROUGH THE SEQUENCE OF TESTS AFTER THE REPAIR

UNLOCK YOU'RE PADLOCK WHICH WAS PUT ON IN THE SAFE ISOLATION PROCEDURE

AND THEN IF ALL IS SAFE-----RE-ENERGISE

my name is Kev and i'm an electrician

My name is Tony and I’m not deaf.

STOP SHOUTING!

 

[drjarmin]

Aha - makes sense. Electrician has been located and is on his way but should be a quick fix.

Thanks everyone for your help. Whilst he is here, anything else evidently needs addressing?

 

[ebow72]

A little to difficult to advise on without being in situ, well's that my take on it. But all good practice for trainees like myself.
Good to try and diagnose something without being there...bit like my doctor.
But thanks for the post!

Ian

 

[drjarmin]

What is the point of that connector? I am guessing it is for testing but seems to be a weak point in the design. My last fuseboard, the connector came lose once and swivelled round. I knew something was amiss as the lights did the flickering thing and then applicances started to blow up. A few extension leads melted too. Total damage 2 air conditioners, 3 extension leads and a laptop.