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Got the Hilti DD-110 great drill and have a matching 112mm 450mm long core bit £300 on it's own:( , amazing speed did a hole the other week for the first time in hard engineering brick double skin it took 4min or less :D
 
Got the Hilti DD-110 great drill and have a matching 112mm 450mm long core bit £300 on it's own:( , amazing speed did a hole the other week for the first time in hard engineering brick double skin it took 4min or less :D

Yes, I used to tell my apprentices that there is never any need to struggle & if you are you're either not using the right tools or you're doing something wrong.
 
Jel, before you condemn your existing core cutter, it may just be a case of the diamond faces being glazed from cutting ‘soft’ materials (as hinted by Geordie). In the context of core cutting, ‘soft’ mean anything softer than standard house brick, so that would include materials like sandstone, limestone, thermalite block, aerated concrete block etc. What you need to do is drill at least 2” in hard material like concrete paving, concrete kerbing or engineering brick; this will restore the diamond cutting faces to their original effectiveness as if by magic.
As others have already said, but worth reiterating, the SDS tool holder is very inefficient when used in the hammer stop mode, a large core drill will quickly stress and wear the tool holder and ultimately destroy a 4kg SDS if it does not have thermal protection. If you suspect your drill of getting excessively hot, stop drilling, switch to the max speed range and run it flat out for least 5 minutes in free air to allow the motor fan to cool the windings.
As soon as you are able, get yourself a proper diamond core drill. They generally come in two forms: - 1) The conventional chuck type takes a hex arbour. 2) The threaded tool holder type takes a screw fit arbour. The former, allow you the flexibility of a standard drill. The later, higher torque of a direct drive at the expense of more laboured tool changing.
Of the chuck type the Makita 8406 is fine example, offerings from Dewalt and Bosch are better, but my personal favourite is the Milwaukee DD2-160XE.
Direct drive types are the professional choice however. The Marcrist DDM2 and DDM3 allow wet and dry cutting at fixed speeds. I have never felt the need for variable speeds when using one of these, I find them remarkably efficient when paired with the same make of core cutter, but some of my colleagues disagree. Most of the main players have top of the range models, with Hilti being the firm favourite with my work mates.
 
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The Hilti's look a bit expensive.
Has anyone used the Makita core drill?
I do like the look of the milwaukee core cutter drill. I do have the 18v cordless and that is one of the best drills I have owned.
There is a drill on eBay called premier drill, love the look of the dust extractor Hoover!
 
Whichever you use, you only need to use it until the core cutter is about half an inch into the wall - then you take the guide rod / pilot drill out & continue to core the hole without it, so if you use the guide rod, there's no need to drill a pilot hole for it much deeper than a couple of inches.[/QUOTE]

But if you drill all the way through the wall with the pilot drill you do see where your exit hole will be and ensure it is not behind a cast iron reinforcing plate or similar LOL
 
Hi guys after getting the old p45 from my last job i started myself and just couldnt afford the hilti gear that i used with them so i bought a

makita 8046 core drill

and a multiswive dust extractor http://www.propointequipment.com/si...iles/Propoint_dust_extracted_dry_drilling.pdf

along with a bosch gas 25 dust extractor

You'll know where to buy your tools cheaper than i could link to but , get a multiswivel it takes all the dust away from the cutting face and extends the life of your diamond core , check the prices at Pro-Point Equipment Ltd beacuse i got all the kit including a 112mm core for less than £100

Jamie
 
Whichever you use, you only need to use it until the core cutter is about half an inch into the wall - then you take the guide rod / pilot drill out & continue to core the hole without it, so if you use the guide rod, there's no need to drill a pilot hole for it much deeper than a couple of inches.

But if you drill all the way through the wall with the pilot drill you do see where your exit hole will be and ensure it is not behind a cast iron reinforcing plate or similar LOL[/QUOTE]

ExactlY !!! :mad:

Unfortunately when it happened to me it was a 2 foot thick wall & I only had a 1 foot long pilot drill. :(
 

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