Help needed to change light switch to infrared switch

[celticjam]

Hi, I just wanted to replace my light switch with an infrared module. The wiring in the switch was just Live and Neutral (1-way switching). I attached them to the infrared switch (which only has live and neutral points). The switch works, but all it does is dim the lights and the extractor fan stays on permanent live. Is this a problem due to the low voltage lighting or the circuit? I believe that I will have to rewire the ring into the switch directly to get it to work. Could you advise on the best way to wire the circuit? I attach a diagram of the junction box with the 1,2,3,4 a & b being the connection points in the box.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer?

 

[sparkinlee]

Never mind the light switching (it's not a neutral at the light switch by the way...) - have you really got a power shower powered from the lighting circuit?!?!?

 

[malcolmsanford]

You maybe getting a conflict with the Infra red switch and transformer of the lights. The wiring looks ok, what I would do is fit a 230 volt light for temp in place of the low voltage light and see if that works.

 

[electromonkey]

Your infra red switch wont work with the wiring as a conventional switch. You will need to adjust it so it is wired as a double poll switch. That's how I'm seeing it anyway.

I am assuming it is for a bathroom? If it is, you could do with an isolator for your fan and get the work signed off by a spark.

 

[Electro-tech]

AS above and a fused spur for the power shower pump. At point B are you not switching the lv lights and a permanent live to the black L2.

 

[celticjam]

Thanks guys... yes, I was horrified when I saw that the lazy plumber had spurred the power shower off the lights! At least he did put a fused spur in!! Unfortunately everything is in place from the previous owner, so the low voltage spots are in the ceiling already. All I was trying to do was replace the switch with an infra red one.
I do think it is a conflict between the switch and the transformer as Malcolm suggested. Is there any way around it?
I think the double poll switch might be the best option??

 

[truckster]

As ElectroMonkee says you probably need a neutral at the IR switch to make it work correctly. What terminals are on the IR switch? You may need to take either a three core and earth(L,N,SW) or two twins to the switch

 

[nickblake]

youve also got ring main on your drawing that cant be rights or am i totally mis reading the drawing it has been a long day

 

[truckster]

I assumed that was the lighting feed, misnamed, then god knows what plumbers will do

 

[celticjam]

Cheers Truckster.... but I only have 2 terminals on the back of the switch...
Yes, you're right Nick..it was an early start for me when I drew the diagram...habit...

 

[nickblake]

yep truckstar think your right there but as has been said you will need a neutral feed at the switch or remove the switch wire wire in a 3 core and earth to a ceiling mount PIR basically the same wiring as the fan but from the PIR to the connections

 

[truckster]

In that case I would say Malcolm is probably on the right track, conflict with the low voltage lights

 

[electromonkey]

Take the t & e feed to a JB then loop it to your IR still in t & e. The switched side of your IR t & e then to a JB supplying your lights and fan. Your fan can be run in t & e with a link between the perm live and sw live. Run your shower pump from the feed/loop JB. Don't forget to install isolators for the fan and shower pump. (if you want your fan to work on it's timer then you'll need to run a perm live from the feed/loop JB and not use a link).

Agreed?

 

[celticjam]

Makes sense electromonkey..I'll give it a try...cheers