Don't substitute... diagnose! Changing the contactor might fix it, but only in the same way that fitting a new engine might fix a car that won't start.
You should be able to verify the motor condition with 90% certainty using about ten 5-second tests, done from the control cubicle if it's more convenient than at the motor. Test the windings from the motor side of M and D; obviously you wouldn't be able to distinguish between a winding fault and a damaged cable - but at least you will be able to identify a disconnect, an interwinding short, a single winding short etc. IR from each winding to each other and to earth at 500V, and resistance of the three windings each of which will have one end on M and one on D (&S).
If something is amiss - insulation down, one winding O/C, or more than say 10% difference in winding resistance - then you will have to repeat the tests at the motor terminal box. The operation of the contactors can be proven likewise at either end, provided you can keep the control supply on with the 3-phase off. Or if live testing is permissible then you can probably find the fault with just the three line current clamp tests in a matter of seconds.