Domestic set up - Just put a 24hr timer on it and set to run during day or customer requirements. No point it running all night unless customer requires.
As to the U/fl/htg it is customary to either stick with 1 programmer then seperate stats, or more commonly 1 programmer (Master off - Part L) and 'programmable room stats' in each room.
Taps close to the cylinder would waste a negligible amount of water (in relation to 'ring' hot water) I think. Is there a way to install a 'call' button adjacent to taps so the hot water circulates when pressed?
When a `Ring` Circuit of Pumped Hot Water is installed - for `Energy Efficiency` purposes ALL of the attached Pipework requires Insulating.
The pipework to the Taps / Shower etc. would NOT have to be insulated with the `Superior Quality` Pipe Insulation [Armaflex] that I suggested for the Hot Water Circuit but it has to be insulated to prevent Heat Loss by `Heat Creep` [my term] along the draw off pipes FROM the Hot Water Circuit Pipework.
Although that `Heat Creep` would usually not go more than about a Metre from the Hot Water Circuit - Heat Loss / Cooling of the Water in the Pipe `Leg` serving the Hot Tap / Shower etc. is NOT desirable - and although I cannot find a specific reference in the Regulations for this situation I can assure You that insulating the Pipe `Legs` is required.
IF what You described about a `Call Button` could be configured - causing the Hot Water Circuit Pump to come on - one would have to be installed at every Hot Water draw off area - Bathrooms / Kitchen / Utility.
AND this would still mean wasted Water - instead of having to wait for the Hot Water to be drawn from the Cylinder all the way through the Hot Water pipework to the Tap / Shower etc. by Gravity / Mains pressure - the same amount of Tepid / Cooled Water would be wasted - it would just arrive at the Tap / Shower etc. quicker than with Gravity.
Although people might think that Pumped Hot Water Circuits are JUST for the Comfort and Convenience of the Household - there are Water Regulations which prevent large draw offs of Water before the Hot Water reaches the outlets.
Hi Chris, obviously haven't seen install and was only suggesting a possible compromise to an obviously already poorly installed set up. i.e. that it will be the farther points that would benefit from circulation of hot water. Hope you find a solution and find time to post it.
Hi Chris, obviously haven't seen install and was only suggesting a possible compromise to an obviously already poorly installed set up. i.e. that it will be the farther points that would benefit from circulation of hot water. Hope you find a solution and find time to post it.
I hope that You did not misunderstand the tone of my reply to You - I was not trying to be pedantic when I responded to your suggestion about a Call button.
I have been involved with situations in very large properties where some Bathrooms were at the furthest point in the House compared to the Hot Water Cylinders / Tanks - these Bathrooms had their Hot & Cold Water pumped to the Taps / Showers by pumps that had Flow Switches - Open a Tap / turn On Shower and the Pump Flow Switch is tripped by the small flow of Water and turns On the Pump - the Pump stops when the Tap / Shower valve is closed.
By the way I am not the OP of this thread - that is Perci - I don`t have a problem to solve - I have written the MASSIVE `Wall of Text` messages to Him / other Members / future Readers to explain the possible problems that an Incorrectly Insulated Pumped Hot Water Circuit can cause.
What I intended to be a couple of `reasonable length` messages developed into what You can see above !
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