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Hello I'm an apprentice looking for tips and techniques. I asked this question before but got no response.
When it comes to installing downlights what is your method for how many downlights you require?
Do you do the lumen calculation or are there other quick ways to do it.
Thanks.
 
I'm still learning this lighting design process there is alot of stuff to think about, from most videos I've watched from credible lighting designers and from what's been mentioned in the thread, downlights are going out of fashion and strip lighting around the perimeter in the coving is the new preferred look.
 
Its been a while but, here is my ten pence worth. Hope it helps.

Its not a new thing its just re designed fitting upgrade. I have worked on old Erm is it Coffers a form of cavity within the ceiling lit with don't laugh but a good old fluro 6ft all lined up to form the continues line of bright light.

LED all lined up look the same. New tech and needs sorting out.

The ceiling thing for your knowledge just look up and say will this look good with 4/ 6 or 8 lights you will always find you can make a fit and usually looks great to see when finished.

Measure the ceiling and Divide by 4 fittings +1wall (5) Then this will space out your fittings.

So 4000mm divide by 5 = 800mm between each fitting. and soo on.

Remember too many and it will look ridiculous. Once you do one you learn by your mistakes.
I myself feel that LED at the moment are far to bright and need to be reduced. So make sure you know what you are fitting. power wise. they all look different and are powered very different saying the same power outings. example 3.5w 4w 5w and all do the same light. Some are more intense than others.
 
All LED's normally have a lumen output denoted on them, the important thing is if you need Daylight or Warm white output, lumen's go down with the Daylight White that looks like an old tungsten light, better for lounge, but Daylight White for work area's i.e. Kitchens.
 
All LED's normally have a lumen output denoted on them, the important thing is if you need Daylight or Warm white output, lumen's go down with the Daylight White that looks like an old tungsten light, better for lounge, but Daylight White for work area's i.e. Kitchens.

I don't like anything other than warm white (3000K) for general lighting in kitchens, especially if they incorporate a dining area, but prefer 4000K for under cabinet lights.
 
My designs tend to be based on where the ceiling joists are ?
Spot on. First and most important question to be asked when planning to install downlighters in my book. There are lots of variables that provide flexibility when installing downlighters but the joists really are bottom line. Then design the layout so you totally eradicate the need for any repairs to ceiling (with the exception of the existing ceiling rose which might require a MF JB and a touch up. Though many are happy to let the rose minus the pendent)
 
1 yard or thereabouts between each light. no light closer than 2 ft. from a wall. some sort of attempt to get them in straight line/s. works for me.
 
My designs tend to be based on where the ceiling joists are ?

If planning a kitchen make sure you take into account units that go right up to the ceiling or there abouts ?
Both very important points. I've seen downlights carved into the side of joists, and downlights illuminating the dust on top of tall cupboards.
 
Last time I did a rewire it was still a pendant in the middle of the ceiling. However a friend asked me to wire a new build house he was building for his retirement so I had some lessons to learn.
I agree with the comments above about wall colour height of ceiling etc but for general lighting with all white walls and modern ceiling height, I worked on each fitting lighting a 2x2 meter area of floor and found that this worked well, but as above, position of the joists was important. Also I avoided putting fittings above the head of where a bed was going. You don't want to be lying in bed with a light in you face. There were other lights such as wall lights in the living room and cabinet lights in the kitchen, but I treated them as extras. I also used good quality fire and acoustic fittings with separate lamps. I have had cases where one fitting fails and you cant get an exact replacement so all the fitting in the room have to be changed. Another reason for wanting replaceable lamps was in case my 'design' wasn't bright enough, I could just fit higher powered lamps.
Two years on my friend is still happy with the lighting.
 
Both very important points. I've seen downlights carved into the side of joists, and downlights illuminating the dust on top of tall cupboards.
Reminds me of a song "I'v seen sunshine I'v seen rain"

But the above only happens when the installation is not designed its just put up where someone thinks it ought to go, no excuse except maybe for the first hole that may hit a solid strut that was used instead of herringbone, there are not many ceilings that with a high powered narrow beam torch you can't identify the line of the board or spotting of the nails, there are some, but not many.
 
Reminds me of a song "I'v seen sunshine I'v seen rain"

But the above only happens when the installation is not designed its just put up where someone thinks it ought to go, no excuse except maybe for the first hole that may hit a solid strut that was used instead of herringbone, there are not many ceilings that with a high powered narrow beam torch you can't identify the line of the board or spotting of the nails, there are some, but not many.

Neodymium magnets will find just about every joist.
 

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