ideal combi mechanical timer

[neilyboy]

anyone any experience of these ?
moved house and boiler has mechanical timer ,ideal combi 30,heating comes on when switch set to permanant but with the clock set at the current time it doesnt seem to rotate there is also a thermostat in the hallway.
are they prone to failure ?

Thanks

 

[westward10]

Can you show some pics?

 

[neilyboy]

Can you show some pics?

thanks for the reply,I havnt been to the house today I will take some pics tomorrow

 

[mainline]

anyone any experience of these ?
moved house and boiler has mechanical timer ,ideal combi 30,heating comes on when switch set to permanant but with the clock set at the current time it doesnt seem to rotate there is also a thermostat in the hallway.
are they prone to failure ?

Thanks

If you have a multimeter, with the clock disconnected, it would be worth measuring the resistance between the motor wires . If nothing there, a wire's broken or the clock motor is faulty.

 

[neilyboy]

Can you show some pics?

back today,turns out the boiler is 11 months old,the thermostat is a tamperproof stat which only revealed the "dial" after fully removing the cover,I have a feeling the stat is making the clock redundant,without removing the boiler cover and fiddling about I've no way of knowing,anyway I'm hoping to install a hive or similar control so may be back on here shortly........

 

[mainline]

back today,turns out the boiler is 11 months old,the thermostat is a tamperproof stat which only revealed the "dial" after fully removing the cover,I have a feeling the stat is making the clock redundant,without removing the boiler cover and fiddling about I've no way of knowing,anyway I'm hoping to install a hive or similar control so may be back on here shortly........

If the mechanical clock doesn't keep the time and the boiler fires when you turn the timer to constant, then there's a fault with the mechanical timer.

 

[neilyboy]

If the mechanical clock doesn't keep the time and the boiler fires when you turn the timer to constant, then there's a fault with the mechanical timer.

Ill check tomorrow,Im almost certain that the clock was on the timer when I opened the thermostat and turned the temp up and the boiler fired

 

[Shooby]

Ill check tomorrow,Im almost certain that the clock was on the timer when I opened the thermostat and turned the temp up and the boiler fired

Hi Neily.

It doesn't really matter if the mechanical clock is faulty or not, as it'll be far better to do as you are considering - leave it switched to 'permanently on' and forget about it. Then replace the wall 'stat with a programmable 'stat that'll handle both the timings and the temps. If you go 'Smart', then you can add App control from your phone, which makes setting times and temps much easier - and you can override it at will, even away from the house.

If you post a photo of the wall 'stat, we can advise on replacements.

 

[neilyboy]

Hi Neily.

It doesn't really matter if the mechanical clock is faulty or not, as it'll be far better to do as you are considering - leave it switched to 'permanently on' and forget about it. Then replace the wall 'stat with a programmable 'stat that'll handle both the timings and the temps. If you go 'Smart', then you can add App control from your phone, which makes setting times and temps much easier - and you can override it at will, even away from the house.

If you post a photo of the wall 'stat, we can advise on replacements.

will do,will take some pics tomorrow,going smart is definitely the way we want to go

 

[neilyboy]

Hi Neily.

It doesn't really matter if the mechanical clock is faulty or not, as it'll be far better to do as you are considering - leave it switched to 'permanently on' and forget about it. Then replace the wall 'stat with a programmable 'stat that'll handle both the timings and the temps. If you go 'Smart', then you can add App control from your phone, which makes setting times and temps much easier - and you can override it at will, even away from the house.

If you post a photo of the wall 'stat, we can advise on replacements.

some pictures from the boiler...
1st pic is the tamperproof stat with the cover off,2nd pic is boiler control panel opened,left hand cable goes to the stat right hand is 240 supply 3rd picture is left hand side of mechanical timer connections are frost stat and something I cant read....

 

[neilyboy]

Hi Neily.

It doesn't really matter if the mechanical clock is faulty or not, as it'll be far better to do as you are considering - leave it switched to 'permanently on' and forget about it. Then replace the wall 'stat with a programmable 'stat that'll handle both the timings and the temps. If you go 'Smart', then you can add App control from your phone, which makes setting times and temps much easier - and you can override it at will, even away from the house.

If you post a photo of the wall 'stat, we can advise on replacements.

and one expanded view showing the sta and supply connections with the mechanical timer behind the white square thing...

 

[Avo Mk8]

some pictures from the boiler...
1st pic is the tamperproof stat with the cover off,2nd pic is boiler control panel opened,left hand cable goes to the stat right hand is 240 supply 3rd picture is left hand side of mechanical timer connections are frost stat and something I cant read....

That choc block is for connecting a frost stat as you say, and the other pair of terminals is for connecting an opentherm device.
If you Google the model of you boiler you should be able to find the installation manual, which will contain wiring info etc, example below (can't be sure this is exactly yours)
The mechanical timer is available as a spare part for about £10.

 

[Shooby]

some pictures from the boiler...
1st pic is the tamperproof stat with the cover off,2nd pic is boiler control panel opened,left hand cable goes to the stat right hand is 240 supply 3rd picture is left hand side of mechanical timer connections are frost stat and something I cant read....

That 'stat is seemingly the Sunvic TLX2358.

It now depends on how 'involved' you wish to become with your boiler electrics, but I'll have to take a step back if you decide it's 'deeply'.

What I would suggest to a cyber-fellow is to leave the boiler and its kaput mechanical clock well alone, and to instead focus on the Sunvic. Simply by-pass the clock using 'perm on', and then transfer your interest to the wall 'stat.

First, cut the power. Then either prise off the dial on the 'stat to expose the wiring behind (you can look up the installation instructions for the 2358), or unscrew the whole unit from the wall. That will likely reveal that the unit has a Live, a Neutral, and a Switched Live - and possibly an earth. If so, that will allow you to fit the receiver from a range of Smart Prog Stats in its place, and to have the wireless controller elsewhere - even mounted on the wall beside it.

Since I think you understand what's involved, I'll leave it to you to decide whether this is fine, or to connect directly to the boiler, tapping in to that 'stat cable you have identified.

What Smart Prog Stat were you considering?

Since, according to Evo, that boiler is Opentherm compatible, you may wish to extract the mac efficiency out of it by fitting an OT-compatible Prog Stat instead, like EPH, Salus, and the Drayton Wiser (seemingly recommended), but that's for you to work out

 

[neilyboy]

Drayton Wiser

thats exactly how we are using the heating atm

That 'stat is seemingly the Sunvic TLX2358.

It now depends on how 'involved' you wish to become with your boiler electrics, but I'll have to take a step back if you decide it's 'deeply'.

What I would suggest to a cyber-fellow is to leave the boiler and its kaput mechanical clock well alone, and to instead focus on the Sunvic. Simply by-pass the clock using 'perm on', and then transfer your interest to the wall 'stat.

First, cut the power. Then either prise off the dial on the 'stat to expose the wiring behind (you can look up the installation instructions for the 2358), or unscrew the whole unit from the wall. That will likely reveal that the unit has a Live, a Neutral, and a Switched Live - and possibly an earth. If so, that will allow you to fit the receiver from a range of Smart Prog Stats in its place, and to have the wireless controller elsewhere - even mounted on the wall beside it.

Since I think you understand what's involved, I'll leave it to you to decide whether this is fine, or to connect directly to the boiler, tapping in to that 'stat cable you have identified.

What Smart Prog Stat were you considering?

Since, according to Evo, that boiler is Opentherm compatible, you may wish to extract the mac efficiency out of it by fitting an OT-compatible Prog Stat instead, like EPH, Salus, and the Drayton Wiser (seemingly recommended), but that's for you to work out

Thats exactly how we are controlling the heating at the moment,boiler perm on and wall stat turning boiler off and on,Im afraid I,m going to be boring with regards the smart stat,ideal have one called halo which has an interface which plugs in where the mechanical timer is and a wireless thermostat goes where you want it ,if there are any advantages to using the wiring to the existing wall stat then I'll use that.

 

[Shooby]

thats exactly how we are using the heating atm

Thats exactly how we are controlling the heating at the moment,boiler perm on and wall stat turning boiler off and on,Im afraid I,m going to be boring with regards the smart stat,ideal have one called halo which has an interface which plugs in where the mechanical timer is and a wireless thermostat goes where you want it ,if there are any advantages to using the wiring to the existing wall stat then I'll use that.

Hi. Really sorry that I neglected your thread, NB - I'd forgotten about it :-(

If you are set on the Halo, first check that your specific Ideal model will take it. If it does, then by all means fit the WiFi receiver in the boiler, and mount the 'Halo' anywhere you want.

Do bear in mind you'll still have a cable running to your existing wall 'stat position, which presumably will be power-isolated when you remove the old boiler timer, but you'd need to confirm. The simplest solution at the wall 'stat end is to remove the 'stat, safely terminate the cables, and place a decor faceplate over it.

Where will you have your Halo - wall-mounted, or sitting in a stand? It looks nice, but is costly for a non-Smart unit, so I hope it's easy to program and use, because that's where Smart wins every time - just a doddle to monitor and change temps from your phone.

'Smart' undoubtedly saves energy too. If we find we are snug enough with a blanket over our knees whilst watching Justice - Those Who Kill, I'll often grab the phone and turn the CH down or off. If we are going out, ditto. Then another press when we know we are heading home.

Let us know what you decide, and how you get on.