Ikea - sockets in units

[7671]

Im in the process of quoting for a kitchen refit which ikea fitters will be fitting whilst i complete electrical works. Dishwasher, washing machine and tumble dryer are all freestanding but below worktop so my plan was to provide a switched fused spur with single socket for each. Now, ikea have asked if i could place the single sockets in unit which i'm happy to do but how should i route cables from chase to unit. I did think about using a flex outlet plate and wire the single socket into this which to me seems fine and cant see any reason or reg that says not to - and neater

am i wrong ?

 

[Amateur]

Are they the Ikea cabinets with no service void at the rear?

 

[7671]

yes for 2 the third is at the end of a run of units on adjoining wall

 

[Midwest]

Mount the sockets surface at the back of the unit (suitable surface dependant) in an adjacent floor unit.

 

[Amateur]

Why do they want them in the cupboards so you then either have to chop the appliance fitted plug off voiding any warranty or drill a big hole in the side of the cabinet to pass the plug through?

I prefer my sockets behind the appliances with switched fused spurs with neons above. No issues with warranties or nasty holes in my new cabinets.

 

[Midwest]

Why do they want them in the cupboards so you then either have to chop the appliance fitted plug off voiding any warranty or drill a big hole in the side of the cabinet to pass the plug through?

Chopping off a plug doesn't generally void the manufacturers warranty, just ask them, I did. Drilling a hole in the bottom off a floor unit, is all that is necessary, generally. Allows the appliance to be pulled out for maintenance, with plug top still attached. Some service engineers aren't allowed to touch FCU's/flex outlets.

 

[buzzlightyear]

Im in the process of quoting for a kitchen refit which ikea fitters will be fitting whilst i complete electrical works. Dishwasher, washing machine and tumble dryer are all freestanding but below worktop so my plan was to provide a switched fused spur with single socket for each. Now, ikea have asked if i could place the single sockets in unit which i'm happy to do but how should i route cables from chase to unit. I did think about using a flex outlet plate and wire the single socket into this which to me seems fine and cant see any reason or reg that says not to - and neater

it would be wise to put the sockets inside the carcase for the appliance's or are you not falimarised with kitchen refurbishments .

 

[7671]

Understand about fitting socket in unit however not sure how to route cable from chase to unit. The thought of just bringing the cable out of the wall to unit feels somewhat shoddy. Any thoughts on using a outlet plate and wiring the socket into this ?

 

[buzzlightyear]

The thought of just bringing the cable out of the wall to unit feels somewhat shoddy. Any thoughts on using a outlet plate and wiring the socket into this ?

I'm glad that you are not on a new build!

 

[buzzlightyear]

why don't you put the socket to the wall and the kitchen fitter will work around your sockets . and see what the customer says spending they hard earned cash !

 

[Benchaffey]

How far from the wall to unit? Surely an extension box or two would do?, outlet plate behind unit may be more problematic if not accessible later on..

 

[Octopus]

Please do not place the socket behind the unit and have a fused spur above - the socket won't be accessible and if the fuse in the appliance plug fails its a PITA to replace. When the RCD starts tripping, as it will, you will need to be able to isolate the appliance ...

Sockets in the adjacent cupboard is the way forward.

Good dialogue with the fitters is my recommendation - and yes this will mean working with them as the kitchen goes in.

 

[Midwest]

Understand about fitting socket in unit however not sure how to route cable from chase to unit. The thought of just bringing the cable out of the wall to unit feels somewhat shoddy. Any thoughts on using a outlet plate and wiring the socket into this ?

The cable(s) will come out of the wall, at a suitable point, bridge the service gap (25-65mmish dependant on make & unit type) and then into the back box for your particular accessory. The exit point from the chase for the cable(s) doesn't need to be accurate, the cable(s) can be clipped to the wall in the service void. Not done much kitchen work OP?

PS If you client does want isolation switch above worktop, in my experience most don't, use a DP switch with socket outlet not FCU. Bit neater and less 1362 fuses to contend with.

 

[7671]

The cable(s) will come out of the wall, at a suitable point, bridge the service gap (25-65mmish dependant on make & unit type) and then into the back box for your particular accessory. The exit point from the chase for the cable(s) doesn't need to be accurate, the cable(s) can be clipped to the wall in the service void. Not done much kitchen work OP?

PS If you client does want isolation switch above worktop, in my experience most don't, use a DP switch with socket outlet not FCU. Bit neater and less 1362 fuses to contend with.

ok great thanks for the detailed reply

 

[Timbo]

The cable(s) will come out of the wall, at a suitable point, bridge the service gap (25-65mmish dependant on make & unit type) and then into the back box for your particular accessory. The exit point from the chase for the cable(s) doesn't need to be accurate, the cable(s) can be clipped to the wall in the service void. Not done much kitchen work OP?

PS If you client does want isolation switch above worktop, in my experience most don't, use a DP switch with socket outlet not FCU. Bit neater and less 1362 fuses to contend with.

You have obviously not met Ikea units - they don't have a service void. Nor do they have a standard plinth height. Won't get a plinth heater in there!