immersion heater

[i=p/u]

hi.
i went to see an immersion heater tonight that hasn't been working for a number of years according to owner.

soon as i turned it on it trips the rcd, then i take off connections at immersion heater and it doesn't trip rcd. so tells me the element.

when i took element cover off you could see a white coating all around which i think is limescale/corrision(hard water area). when IR test i got short between all conductors.

would corrosion in element cause short between conductors?

when measured resistance of element the reading was 18.3 ohms. which i think is an ok reading.

any views welcome .

 

[telectrix]

element corroded. definitely a new element job. have you ever done one?

 

[somersetsparks]

element corroded. definitely a new element job. have you ever done one?

If not good luck to you sir!

best hope its a really old tank they seem to hold up the best!

 

[oldtimer]

18 ohms is good but sounds like there is a leakage to earth via the element I live in a soft water area so have never seen limescale problems most faults I find with immersions is the 70%thermostat problems 30% the element. Although the newer houses seem to have the megaflow systems that dont seem to last as long.

 

[i=p/u]

no never changed one, but i got plumber involved, so he can change and il wire it up and then we both get payed and he is responsible for it if leaks..

is there much to it. you obviously need immersion spanner. which i wouldnt have. turn off valves somewhere and drain the tank;

there is actualy another imersion underneath which i think belongs to old off peak supply or something eco7

 

[Lilley]

change it!

 

[Geordie Spark]

DO NOT DRAIN THE TANK!!!

until you've got the Immersion Heater loosened.

You need the water in the tank to keep it rigid until the heater. is loose, otherwise you'll twist & distort the top of the tank & destroy it.

Once the heater is loose, THEN you drain the tank & remove the heater.

Good luck !!

 

[oldtimer]

And remember your PL insurance does not cover you yes with electricity but no with water

 

[AndyL]

no never changed one, but i got plumber involved, so he can change and il wire it up and then we both get payed and he is responsible for it if leaks..

is there much to it. you obviously need immersion spanner. which i wouldnt have. turn off valves somewhere and drain the tank;

there is actualy another imersion underneath which i think belongs to old off peak supply or something eco7

Does the element on the bottom of the tank work, if you only have the top one working it will only give a small amount of hot water, would be there for a boost. If you no longer have an off peak supply you could just feed the bottom element from the regular circuit

 

[telectrix]

i never drain the tank. shut off the flow to it, turn on the hot tap/s. ( remember that the hot water comes out of the top of the tank). then use a lump hammer to tap the spanner round, rather than trying to tug it . a couple of towels to catch the small amount of leak, old one out, grease thread, new one in, connect up.

 

[Moses]

Clean off all the lime scale and dry out.

Then remove the supply cable from IH.

Do an IR test from L to E and check for reading > 2M

If IR test good, then the IH is good.

Else change the IH with new.

But as said earlier, You need to get the E7 (bottom) IH working, as top IH will only heat part of the tank.

 

[Des 56]

Draining down the tank ?:sleep1:
When the elements are side mounted,if you have the confidence and somebody to hold the bucket :smile5:

 

[Moses]

Draining down the tank ?:sleep1:
When the elements are side mounted,if you have the confidence and somebody to hold the bucket :smile5:

More like a bath, than a bucket!!!!!!!

 

[Top Cat]

If it's top entry with a "neck" and stuck with boss white leave it for a plumber. Done that, got the T shirt and paid for a new tank!

 

[telectrix]

that's why i use a hammer. never broke a tank yet. however, if the tank looks ready to fall apart, it's on the phone to the nearest wethead.