Immersion problem

[Prime Design]

Hi lads,

My client is having problems with her peak and off peak immersion. She claims she isn't getting enough hot water. I turned both thermostats up but she is still having the same problem. They are new elements but I tested them anyway and they are working fine. I'm wondering if the problem is a plumbing issue, maybe the tank isn't being filled up fully. Any ideas as to what the problem might be?

 

[davesparks]

I will check the resistance of the elements again but I believe I got 0.20 ohms on both elements but I didn't zero the leads and I used the default range on my Megger.

Ok this is good, you have measured the resistance and finally told us what it was. Now how did you know whether this resistance was correct or not? To do this you need to calculate what the resistance should be for a 3KW load at 240V and compare your measured value to this. The equation you need is R=V[SUP]2[/SUP]/P

You will not get people telling you the answers because this will not help you, what you might get if you ask politely is help to work out the answers yourself.

 

[Geordie Spark]

I will check the resistance of the elements again but I believe I got 0.20 ohms on both elements but I didn't zero the leads and I used the default range on my Megger.
The thing is most of my training was done with fast paced maintenance firms who cared more about competing a high turnover of jobs than proper training. I'm doing things the way I've been shown. I'm not out to make a quick buck. I want to build a good reputation and get minimal callbacks which means I have to do things properly and to regulations. I'm a one man band with big ambitions, I am limited in areas and need help from time to time to move forward. If members are not 'more willing' to help then fine, don't approach my thread and add to the obstacles I already face. Steer me in the right direction and help bring the level of the inexperienced like, myself, up to standards. All I want to do is fix the customers immersion, if an individual is not willing to help then side step my thread because one way or another I will fix it.

Why not???

Even a gas fitter would zero his water gauge before he took a reading!!

How do you hope to know what the true reading is if you do not?

It's very basic stuff for a properly trained spark - and you ARE a "properly trained" spark aren't you???

 

[Knobhead]

I will check the resistance of the elements again but I believe I got 0.20 ohms on both elements but I didn't zero the leads and I used the default range on my Megger.
The thing is most of my training was done with fast paced maintenance firms who cared more about competing a high turnover of jobs than proper training. I'm doing things the way I've been shown. I'm not out to make a quick buck. I want to build a good reputation and get minimal callbacks which means I have to do things properly and to regulations. I'm a one man band with big ambitions, I am limited in areas and need help from time to time to move forward. If members are not 'more willing' to help then fine, don't approach my thread and add to the obstacles I already face. Steer me in the right direction and help bring the level of the inexperienced like, myself, up to standards. All I want to do is fix the customers immersion, if an individual is not willing to help then side step my thread because one way or another I will fix it.

I’m going to be helpful for once. Don’t rely on auto ranging, set the range yourself when you want a critical reading.

For an immersion heater or any resistive load, roughly work out the resistance value before the test. Dave gave you that with V[SUP]2[/SUP]/P. With a rough figure to work on set the range on your meter to match. Don’t be surprised if the reading is a few % out, all elements are different, but you’ll have a ball park value to look for.

Back to being a rotten sod, you work the resistance out.

You’ll remember these figures after doing the tests a few times, just as you’ll store many figures.

You’ll not get a definitive answer from any of us. It isn’t the way to learn.

 

[Geordie Spark]

I’m going to be helpful for once. Don’t rely on auto ranging, set the range yourself when you want a critical reading.

For an immersion heater or any resistive load, roughly work out the resistance value before the test. Dave gave you that with V[SUP]2[/SUP]/P. With a rough figure to work on set the range on your meter to match. Don’t be surprised if the reading is a few % out, all elements are different, but you’ll have a ball park value to look for.

Back to being a rotten sod, you work the resistance out.

You’ll remember these figures after doing the tests a few times, just as you’ll store many figures.

You’ll not get a definitive answer from any of us. It isn’t the way to learn.

I don't believe I just read that!

YOU being "helpful"??!!!!

Pass me the smelling salts somebody - I've come over all dizzy! :confused5::dizzy2:

( just off for a lie down in a darkened room. Normal service will be resumed as soon as possible )

 

[telectrix]

I've come over all dizzy!


​bet that made dizzy happy!

 

[Marvo]

But he's only got P and those formulas only use V, I and R. You must have got the wrong formula!

Is April the first hanging around a bit longer this year?

For gods sake, don’t confuse him with [SUP]2[/SUP]’s

I think he's simply got too many gigawatts in his flux capacitor.

3000 watts is 300 gigawatts isn't it? Or is it 0.3 kilowatts? I get confused!

There's other posts from other members as well but I hit the maximum number of quotes allowed.

Taking the pi55 out of members is just going to end up eliciting a hostile reaction. If this happens you're going to find yourselves in the net when it comes to infractions being handed out. If you've nothing constructive to add then rather don't say anything.

...I tested for continuity between live an neutral, I can't remember the reading but I did get continuity, then I tested for continuity between live and earth and then between neutral and earth and didn't get a reading.

Prime Design, you're really not doing yourself any favours. I appreciate you're lacking in experience and attempting to learn but posting a thread when you haven't got the basic test results of the circuit to hand is not going to encourage people to give constructive help.

I didn't check the cut out in the stat, is that the same as the reset button?

If you don't have a handle on the components in the machine or appliance and their function and method of operation then it's imperative you do the homework before you dive in and start testing and faultfinding. If not then firstly you're going to run yourself around in circles because you can't localise a fault on a system if you're not familiar with its components and their function. Secondly there's a chance you could inadvertently leave it in an unsafe condition.

I didn't IR the elements
I'd expect a zero value when doing continuity

Again, lack of basic test results.

A zero reading would indicate a dead short when doing IR

An insulation resistance test reading of any value isn't an indication of a dead short, it's an indication of the insulation value.

Dave Sparks what is the purpose of this forum? I'm on here because I need help,

One of the purposes of the forum is a platform for people to expand their knowledge in general but it isn't there to give people step by step advice on how to do specific jobs that they're halfway through.

Go back to the immersion heater and start again by identifying its components and understanding their functions and how they're wired together and if necessary make a wiring sketch. Separate the individual components and perform appropriate tests on each one and record the results. There's a good chance the doing this alone will highlight where the problem is but if not then come back with all the info and post it in a new thread so people can give focused advice rather than blind and ambiguous guesswork.