Immersion timers keep failing

[Subby]

Hi all .
Have been to change an immersion timer for a Santon premier to210e invented cylinder.
This cylinder has a 3kw immersion element (240v)
I have fitted two different timers to replace the original but they have both failed after a few days of operating.
After a few days u no longer get 240v at the switched live terminal in the timer when the timer is calling for heat. This happened to both the timers I fitted (both 16A load rating) one mechanical from the electric merchants, one lap digital one from screwfix.
Why are the timers failing? The element works fine when I link out the timer. Thanks in advance.

 

[Deleted member 9648]

Probably because they are crap.

 

[Subby]

Thanks for reading my question . What would cause these crap timers to fail in this way? The electrical merchant assured me the one he sold me was the best quality one he had (T104-c)

 

[Octopus]

Loose connections?

 

[marc8]

have you checked the supply from fused spur / double pole switch make sure no loose connections ect? same with immersion have you IR tested the element & made sure connections not burnt out & secure?

 

[westward10]

What was wrong with the original, same problem?

 

[Dave OCD]

Some of the timers out there which are supposed to be rated at 3kW or higher aren't great. For years I've only used the Timeguard [Formerly Smiths?] version on Immersion Heaters, a bit old school but simple for the user and reliable in my experience.

 

[Deleted member 9648]

I cant see loose connections causing the internals on the timers to fail, you'd see evidence of that with charred connections.
It's part of life now going back and changing rubbish gear, possibly several times. I had a run of timeguard timers which failed resulting in 3 return visits for FA. Also had a number of 105va LV trannies fail on one particular downlight. 4 return visits and the last one has now been in for 3 years and still going.

 

[Subby]

There were no loose connections and I believe there was the same problem with the original

 

[Subby]

The immersion heater works fine with the supply straight from the fused spur

 

[marc8]

I cant see loose connections causing the internals on the timers to fail, you'd see evidence of that with charred connections.
It's part of life now going back and changing rubbish gear, possibly several times. I had a run of timeguard timers which failed resulting in 3 return visits for FA. Also had a number of 105va LV trannies fail on one particular downlight. 4 return visits and the last one has now been in for 3 years and still going.

not the internals of the timer, the supply to the timer if loose could be causing more current draw through the unit. just a thought

 

[westward10]

Test the element including a load test.

 

[Andy-1960]

Have you clamped the heater to see what current is being drawn?

 

[mattg4321]

I've had problems with the T104 timers in the past. Won't fit them now. LAP stuff is terrible so I'm not surprised that failed.

I normally use 24hr / 7 Day Immersion Heater Timers - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Timeguard/Timers_Wired/index.html for cheap analogue timers when needed. Had very few failures.

 

[Octopus]

^^ wot he said.

 

[7029 dave]

Horstmann I used found them good quality.

 

[sparkdog]

Maybe you could fit a contactor.

 

[freddo]

Test the element including a load test.

Yea do this, had one once that was all split open and part of the element was touching the metal sheath so it was drawing more current than it should, but nothing excessive, around 15.5A IIRC no RCD on circuit. That one ----ed the timer which was the reason for the callout.
Any time I do any work on an immersion heater I always carry out an insulation resistance test, current test with clamp meter and earth fault loop impedance test.

 

[Subby]

Thanks. I know it seems that the timers I bought were of low quality but it seems too much of a Co incidence that 3 have gone in the space of a couple of weeks.
Will carry out the tests you mentioned thanks

 

[telectrix]

if your water has a high calcium carbonate content (limescale)be a good idea to fit a stainless element.