Induction or Ceramic hob

[Steviecuk]

Hopefully you've actually got 6mm2 and this will be better to handle the proposed change.

Thanks. To be honest, now that I think about it, only really having done stuff with 2.5 and 1.5 T&E in the past, I would said it was more like triple the thickness of normal 2.5 rather than just double so I reckon it might be 6mm. I will check when the oven is pulled out the carcus next.
Thanks for the form too. I will go through it tonight and have a look.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Thanks for the form too. I will go through it tonight and have a look.

The form is a certificate for the work that you/whoever has done complies with BS7671. To be able to fill the form in you would need
1. to know what the requirements of BS7671 are
and
2. Have a set of calibrated test instruments that can undertake all of the tests.

I'm guessing that you might not have either of these!

However, doing the work you describe, in your own kitchen, is not notifiable to anybody. Just get on with it, safely./

 

[Steviecuk]

Just get on with it, safely./

I was hoping for this. Thank you.

 

[Steviecuk]

I have just removed the cooker switch plate and found that there is already two sets of wires coming out of it. Is this likely (I will check for definite) that one goes to the oven (obviously) but that the other one goes to the fused spur that the hob was hard wired into (currently used on the gas hob for spark ignitor)? Personally (and I'm not a spark) but if I was and doing the original install, I would probably have wired it this way in case joe public decided to just wire up an electric job to the spur like I'm asking about in the future as a safety precaution? Or is this common and the second wire normally goes somewhere else?

 

[Steviecuk]

Scrap that last question, just tested and there is continuity between the cooker switch and the fused spur so it looks like its all ok. Now before I do anything, would it be acceptable to just get rid of the 13a fused spur and put in a normal junction box and hard wire the new hob to that?

 

[ruston]

ps, only downside of an electric hob is that you can't cook on it in a power cut. So I bought a camping gas burner for £12 for use as a backup.

I had one too , I used to carry one when I was working in the sticks to get a decent cup of tea, hot snacks , etc.
Any ---- can rough it lol.

 

[ruston]

Scrap that last question, just tested and there is continuity between the cooker switch and the fused spur so it looks like its all ok. Now before I do anything, would it be acceptable to just get rid of the 13a fused spur and put in a normal junction box and hard wire the new hob to that?

Put in what is shown and suggested by Richard in post 5.

 

[Steviecuk]

Put in what is shown and suggested by Richard in post 5.

So just to be 100% clear, cut a hole above the socket switch, take the second wire out of the existing cooker switch and fit it inline with the splitter in post 5 with the cable still wired to the switch? That way the splitting is done external to the switch.

I'm not questioning you as I don't know myself, but why is it better to do it that way than to just leave the two cables coming directly out of the switch?

 

[ruston]

Do it as shown in the pic . One wire from the outlet to the hob and the other one to the oven .
Looking at your pic the wires are suitable , testing will confirm this.
It is a neater job than just having the cables coming out of the cooker switch; if that is what you are asking.

 

[Rpa07]

I had one too , I used to carry one when I was working in the sticks to get a decent cup of tea, hot snacks , etc.
Any ---- can rough it lol.

All the chippies I've met so far all have one on their hi top vans, I can imagine them whittling a rudimentary shack for their lunch times. Strange bunch, chippies!

 

[Steviecuk]

Hi Rpa, I don't know if I was describing it well enough. At the moment there is one common going into the cooker switch, then there is two load cables coming out, one to the oven and one to a fused spur. ALL wires hidden behind the wall.

My options from what I can see are...

A) Leave the cooker switch as it is with the two load cables splitting at the point of the cooker switch and just replace the fused spur with a junction box so that I can wire the flex from the hob into.

_______ COOKIER SWITCH _________ OVEN
................................l_____________ JUNCTION BOX _____ HOB


OR

B) Take the fused spur cable out of the back of the cooker switch, splice the OVEN lead that is still coming out of the switch and put the splitter in as per post 5, and then run the cables to the oven and hob respectively.

_______ COOKIER SWITCH _____ SPLITTER ____ OVEN
....................................................l_____________ JUNCTION BOX _____ HOB

 

[Rpa07]

Yes, as you do have the two feeds coming from the cooker switch, which is your isolation, you can put single cable outlets for the two separate appliances. Do you know the size of the feed into the cooker switch and the size of the two out from the switch. If they are substantial enough, in this case 4mm to 6 mm as was mentioned earlier (post #15) then that'll make your life easier.

 

[Taylortwocities]

B is better.

Also, make sure that the cables that you use are 6mm2.

 

[telectrix]

to me it looks like a case of just changing the hob socket for a 45A cooker outlet, leaving al the rest as is. just a quick check of tightness of connections. with moving them, they occasionally need a tweak.

 

[Risteard]

I would have a gas hob over a ceramic/induction hob. I have an induction hob at home and cant stand it.

I love my induction hob. I replaced the gas hob after the gas tank froze solid a number of times in the bad winters. (Mains gas wasn't available until more recently and still isn't that common.) In my opinion the induction hob is every bit as controllable as gas and you can heat a pan of water in no time with boost.