Insulation added after second fixing! | on ElectriciansForums

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Hi everyone.
I need a little advice please. Several months ago I first fixed and second fixed a timber frame loft conversion ( open plan living area and kitchen) for a friend /client. I haven't signed it off yet as I was waiting to install I new CU for him and for him to fit the kitchen. I fitted a kitchen ring final in 2.5mm, socket radial 2.5mm, 2x 6mm hob/oven supplies, a radial, and 2 lighting circuits in 1mm. And smoke detector.1mm. At the time it was simply kingspan with cables through timbers mostly not touching the insulation I used Reference method 102 for calculations. I have however returned to connect up an electric skylight and noticed that every cavity including the 18 inch floor space has been packed with wool insulation changing the reference method to 103. As we know a ring final should not be installed when using ref meth 103 and the radial 2.5m current carrying capacity will be reduced to 13.5A, the 6mm cables to 23.5A. The walls have been plastered and the tongue and grove flooring down and glued. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to remedy this situation? Many thanks in advance.
Si
 
All you can do is derate the circuit breakers providing that the connected loads will not then exceed the rating of the circuit breaker.

It sounds like you've put plenty of thought into designing the installation which is great to hear :)
 
I feel the pain on this one - lots of thought went in and they stuffed it up (almost literally) for you.
The other problem is that this is a loft conversion, and building regs will have been inspecting it. So this isn't really one to bend the rules too much on.
One creative thought - the merits of which can be critiqued!
If you change the first and last socket on the kitchen ring to a 13A FCU, split the ring in the middle, and feed from two 16A breakers on the basis of downstream overload protection..... then if the loads are neatly divided you get the max 26A of design current out of what is there then.
 
Hi everyone.
I need a little advice please. Several months ago I first fixed and second fixed a timber frame loft conversion ( open plan living area and kitchen) for a friend /client. I haven't signed it off yet as I was waiting to install I new CU for him and for him to fit the kitchen. I fitted a kitchen ring final in 2.5mm, socket radial 2.5mm, 2x 6mm hob/oven supplies, a radial, and 2 lighting circuits in 1mm. And smoke detector.1mm. At the time it was simply kingspan with cables through timbers mostly not touching the insulation I used Reference method 102 for calculations. I have however returned to connect up an electric skylight and noticed that every cavity including the 18 inch floor space has been packed with wool insulation changing the reference method to 103. As we know a ring final should not be installed when using ref meth 103 and the radial 2.5m current carrying capacity will be reduced to 13.5A, the 6mm cables to 23.5A. The walls have been plastered and the tongue and grove flooring down and glued. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to remedy this situation? Many thanks in advance.
Si
Were you aware of work undertaken whilst you were first fixing, if son down to you to sort the problem, I THINK.
 
Hi everyone.
I need a little advice please. Several months ago I first fixed and second fixed a timber frame loft conversion ( open plan living area and kitchen) for a friend /client. I haven't signed it off yet as I was waiting to install I new CU for him and for him to fit the kitchen. I fitted a kitchen ring final in 2.5mm, socket radial 2.5mm, 2x 6mm hob/oven supplies, a radial, and 2 lighting circuits in 1mm. And smoke detector.1mm. At the time it was simply kingspan with cables through timbers mostly not touching the insulation I used Reference method 102 for calculations. I have however returned to connect up an electric skylight and noticed that every cavity including the 18 inch floor space has been packed with wool insulation changing the reference method to 103. As we know a ring final should not be installed when using ref meth 103 and the radial 2.5m current carrying capacity will be reduced to 13.5A, the 6mm cables to 23.5A. The walls have been plastered and the tongue and grove flooring down and glued. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to remedy this situation? Many thanks in advance.
Si
Advice for what its worth study the entire spec for the building before you start any work.
 
Thanks. We discussed insulation . The home owner added it after my work was done but as hes a friend i feel obliged to sort it.
I'd say he's the one obliged to sort it out. Being a friend, it should be easier to get the point over to him........just how he's cocked your work up and how it needs to be put right. Good luck.
 
Thanks. We discussed insulation . The home owner added it after my work was done but as hes a friend i feel obliged to sort it.
Insulation companies are doing exactly the same in thousands of homes up and down the country. In reality no one is usually around to determine what the effects are on cable insulation. There is no obligation on the insulation company to have any assessment carried out on the potential implications. It's a funny old world
 
There are hundreds of thousands of properties in the UK where the installation method has gone from surface to fully enclosed in insulation, dating from when the government started offering loft insulation top ups from 4" to 10". Normally only affects immersion heater and electric shower supplies in houses, but, in bungalows, overloads the socket and cooker circuits as well.
 
If you change the first and last socket on the kitchen ring to a 13A FCU, split the ring in the middle, and feed from two 16A breakers on the basis of downstream overload protection..... then if the loads are neatly divided you get the max 26A of design current out of what is there then.
Simpler just to keep it as an RFC on a 20A RCBO, etc. After all methods 100/102 have 2.5mm as 21A, while method 103 has it at 13.5A so:

Max MCB = 32A RFC * 13.5/21 = 20.6A

That way you get better use of the RFC and don't have to know in advance where it should be split on the basis of loads. My own flat has the RFC on 20A for historical reasons and never had an issue with it in terms of total loading. (I think when it was designed in the 70s the MICC sub-mains had too high a Ze for 30A rewirable fuse so to use 20A instead, and as I have no idea exactly where the cables go I kept the 20A rating just in case it was a hidden method 103 somewhere...)
 

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