Internet in Garage - Powerline Issues

[LHensh]

I have bought a TP Link Home Plug kit to try and get internet in my garage.

The kit works fine in the house but unfortunately I get no connection in the garage.

The garage is on its own circuit, however from what I have read online this shouldn't cause any issues.

Could it be the fuse box in the garage (see photo attached) that is causing the issue? If so how easily can these be replaced/upgraded?

Is there anything else that could be causing me to not get any connection in the garage?

 

[pc1966]

The screened cable is only really useful if you can connect the screen at one (or both) ends to ground. For most applications (all plastic sockets, etc) the unscreened type is fine.

As above, you can either fix the cable to wall sockets or a patch-panel, and then use short cables to the switch/router, etc. Or do the simplest way and just make one long cable with plugs at the end! Max length for a single run of copper Ethernet is typically 100m, but that should be plenty for you.

Here is an example of a good crimp tool for the plugs, and the related plugs that have cable trimmed after insertion (far easier to do):

Ideal RJ45 FT-45 Feed-Thru Crimp Tool 5 1/2" (140mm) - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Simple, compact and highly effective lightweight tool which crimps and trims in one step. Ratchet-free mechanical design requires less force, enabling one-handed crimping. Ideal for frequent users. The single crimp cavity for RJ45 / 8-position connectors can be used...

www.screwfix.com

Ideal RJ45 8P/8C Feed-Thru Modular Plugs 25 Pack - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Open-end connectors where conductor order can be verified prior to crimping. Can be pushed or pulled into the connector to ensure that the twisted pairs are as close to the pin contacts as possible and that the jacket is seated beyond the primary strain relief for a...

www.screwfix.com

Given you can get push-down tools cheaper, you might decide to put in some plastic back-boxes and wall mounting RJ45 sockets instead. For example:

C.K Automatic Punch Down Tool - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Automatically seats and trims excess wires during punch down action. Suitable for a wide range of terminal blocks. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

Philex Cat 6 1 Port RJ45 Ethernet Socket White - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Cat 6 network modular kit for installing single RJ45 networking outlets in the home or office. Knockouts on 4 sides for cable entry. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

 

[baldelectrician]

One thing that is often missed- keep your old routers as they usually have a WAN connection on them

I run armoured cat 6 cables when I do garages etc

 

[pc1966]

I run armoured cat 6 cables when I do garages etc

Armoured is ideal for that!

In proper (and hopefully mostly dry) duct, even along with SWA power cable, you can often get away with the simple outdoor style of cable (as the SWA's armour is an earthed barrier between the two), but if part of a planned significant bit of work then spending the extra on SWA network cable is worth doing.

Potentially even looking at putting in fibre if longer distance and/or a lot of use planned, as switches with matching SFP are not so shockingly expensive these days. However, I would need to buy pre-assembled fibre or pay to get someone in to do that step as terminating fibre is not an easy job even for someone who does a lot of specialised RF connectors normally.

The OP has not said how he plans on routing the cable between the buildings. One thing to avoid are sharp bends/kinks in the cable as it can degrade the performance and possibly even permanently damages it so hopefully they have a plan where bends are ideally no sharper than around 2cm radius (CAT-5e) to 2.8cm radius (CAT-6A).

If they plan on running it overhead they will need to attach it to some sort of guy rope/wire with something like UV rated cable ties (but not too tight) as that cable, like many cables, is not strong enough to be self-supporting over any significant distance.

 

[LHensh]

Given you can get push-down tools cheaper, you might decide to put in some plastic back-boxes and wall mounting RJ45 sockets instead. For example:

C.K Automatic Punch Down Tool - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Automatically seats and trims excess wires during punch down action. Suitable for a wide range of terminal blocks. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

Philex Cat 6 1 Port RJ45 Ethernet Socket White - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Cat 6 network modular kit for installing single RJ45 networking outlets in the home or office. Knockouts on 4 sides for cable entry. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

If I were to terminate the cable in one of these back boxes and then from that ran a standard cat6 cable to an access point, would I see any drop in speed by having the additional cable?

 

[pc1966]

If I were to terminate the cable in one of these back boxes and then from that ran a standard cat6 cable to an access point, would I see any drop in speed by having the additional cable?

Done correctly, no.

You should get full gigabit speed (assuming related equipment has that capacity) as long as total length is no more than about 100m, and there are only a couple of connections (with related changes in cable impedance) along the way.

 

[LHensh]

Done correctly, no.

You should get full gigabit speed (assuming related equipment has that capacity) as long as total length is no more than about 100m, and there are only a couple of connections (with related changes in cable impedance) along the way.

Great thanks.

I'm assuming it wouldn't make a difference if one end of the cable is connected to a modular plug (connected direct to router) and the other end to a faceplate? Or would they need to be the same?

 

[Spoon]

Great thanks.

I'm assuming it wouldn't make a difference if one end of the cable is connected to a modular plug (connected direct to router) and the other end to a faceplate? Or would they need to be the same?

You can have one end a modular plug and the other end connected to a faceplate.
If connecting to a faceplate make sure the twisted pairs are twisted as close to the connections as possible.