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Texecom manual clearly states how to default factory settings, with 2 methods.

Tamper faults need to be located, 1 with cables in still terminated link out bell tamper. if clears its the bell tamper switch. 2 link out global tamper if clears link out each device one at a time till fault is found. 90 % of faults are bell tamper switches
 
Is this tamper issue sorted now? Ive fitted 4 of these in my past houses and have another sat here to go in current house. The only time ive had a tamper issue was on the bell box wall reed switch. I ended up looping it out, probably a faulty switch.


I cant remember the symptoms (showing tamper etc) now but on my 2nd house after fitting the alarm it would not stop going off. I called Honeywell and they talked me through some testing with a multimeter and it turned out my brand new panel was faulty!
 
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Is this tamper issue sorted now? Ive fitted 4 of these in my past houses and have another sat here to go in current house. The only time ive had a tamper issue was on the bell box wall reed switch. I ended up looping it out, probably a faulty switch.


I cant remember the symptoms (showing tamper etc) now but on my 2nd house after fitting the alarm it would not stop going off. I called Honeywell and they talked me through some testing with a multimeter and it turned out my brand new panel was faulty!
all sorted- I packed out behind the ext bell box tamp switch and also re-fixed the keypad patress as I think it may have twisted slightly as the front didnt quite sit back perfectly on it- so between the 2 of them laid the fault!
 
all sorted- I packed out behind the ext bell box tamp switch and also re-fixed the keypad patress as I think it may have twisted slightly as the front didnt quite sit back perfectly on it- so between the 2 of them laid the fault!
sorted then, a simple fix. alarms are not rocket science. a quick prod with a multimeter finds most problems.
 
Years ago when we used to use alarms with global tamper, I'd always use a continuous connector strip and wire the tampers in zone order, if there was ever a zone tamper fault you could quickly run along the strip with a voltmeter, when 5V was measured you could see what tamper was open without disconnecting anything. EOL wiring is much easier now, you just look at the screen and it tells you...

Had one only last week and it took seconds to locate the problem zone, it turned out to be a deliberately cut cable to a PIR.
 

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