Is there a protective cover for the 'BACK' of a dry lining box?

[HappyHippyDad]

Hello all..

I have been asked by a customer to fit a recessed socket in the kitchen. The socket will be located on the side of a cupboard (no other viable options). I have given them options of nice looking wooden surface boxes but they are adamant they want it recessed.

I want to cover the back of the dry lining box with something as it will be accessible once the cupboard is opened and I think the box is designed to be hidden in a cavity.

I could easily make a wooden box thats fits over it inside the cupboard and screws into place (still an hours work) but I wondered if there was an actual product for this or if anyone has any better ideas for making it safe?

Cheers..

 

[davesparks]

How thick is the chipboard?

I've done this many times in Island units where there is the cupboard side + a decorative end panel giving a total thickness of 1", which means you can get a 1" metal back box in there with it flush to the inside of the cupboard.

If you feel it is necessary this can easily be covered with a thin bit of ply or a blank plate etc

 

[Guest77]

Why are you so set against putting a socket in a cupboard, surely this happens all the time, and they just use standard accessories which aren't fireproof?

I'm confused why this is such an issue when it's only a variation on a standard surface mounted setup, or have I misunderstood something the the OP and the replies?

Okay joking aside mate, I have no problem with a socket in a cupboard, but think about a drylining box in the side with the wires entering the back and saucepans getting chucked in it? a bit different from a fixed socket on a non breakable box fixed securely inside, thats what I am trying to get at.

 

[davesparks]

O good point, but it could be sealed with some fire-proof mastic.

That's making a mountain out of a molehill!

Flush the box in to the cupboard would be much easier and cheaper!

 

[davesparks]

Okay joking aside mate, I have no problem with a socket in a cupboard, but think about a drylining box in the side with the wires entering the back and saucepans getting chucked in it? a bit different from a fixed socket on a non breakable box fixed securely inside, thats what I am trying to get at.

Cables run horizontally to the back of the cupboard where they drop down the gap behind the cupboard, with a bit of PVC tube inside the cupboard to protect the from knocks.
The socket will almost certainly be near the top of the cupboard so out of harms way anyway

 

[Guest77]

How thick is the chipboard?

I've done this many times in Island units where there is the cupboard side + a decorative end panel giving a total thickness of 1", which means you can get a 1" metal back box in there with it flush to the inside of the cupboard.

If you feel it is necessary this can easily be covered with a thin bit of ply or a blank plate etc

That would work yes, a proper metal box fitted in the side with a thicker board.

 

[Guest77]

Cables run horizontally to the back of the cupboard where they drop down the gap behind the cupboard, with a bit of PVC tube inside the cupboard to protect the from knocks.
The socket will almost certainly be near the top of the cupboard so out of harms way anyway

Yup okay that would also work, prefer a metal box than a dryliner in this case though.

 

[polo1]

What about the MK boxes designed for going into skirting boards, heavier gauge of plastic than a standard dry lining box? Known as a flange box.

 

[VoltzElectrical]

Okay joking aside mate, I have no problem with a socket in a cupboard, but think about a drylining box in the side with the wires entering the back and saucepans getting chucked in it? a bit different from a fixed socket on a non breakable box fixed securely inside, thats what I am trying to get at.

Right, I see where you are coming from now. If you had explained your concerns earlier on I would have understood.

I'm going to withdraw from this thread now as not having seen the job, I don't feel I have anything more to add. The original question has been sort of answered, it's up to the designer now to come up with a solution that offers sufficient mechanical protection.

Voltz.

 

[colshaws]

Have done this a few times, single socket only, position the socket as far back in the cupboards side as possible using as much as the service void as possible and run cabling in the service void, fit a new hardboard back inside the cupboard covering the drylinning box and any exposed cabling, This way no unsightly box, no chance of future damage and only lose about 20mm depth off the back of cupboard.

 

[Guest77]

Right, I see where you are coming from now. If you had explained your concerns earlier on I would have understood.

I'm going to withdraw from this thread now as not having seen the job, I don't feel I have anything more to add. The original question has been sort of answered, it's up to the designer now to come up with a solution that offers sufficient mechanical protection.

Voltz.

Valid point, fair doos.

 

[davesparks]

Yup okay that would also work, prefer a metal box than a dryliner in this case though.

See my earlier comment about a metal box sitting flush in a cupboard side+ decor end panel.

If you are doing this in a kitchen as it is being fitted you get the kitchen fitter to put packets between cupboard and end panel, which creates a nice void for the cables and back box.

 

[Geordie Spark]

What Tel said.

I think he means the surface patress goes one side of the chipboard, the socket front goes on the other side of the chipboard.

The hole cut in the chipboard is slightly undersized so as to allow it to be trapped between the socket and back box.

I think that is what he means, and it's a really good idea.

Shouldn't have said that ... this forum's only just big enough for Tel's head as it is.

 

[telectrix]

Grrrrrrr.....