island in kitchen

[driverman]

As some of you guys know my week end project still on the go. Turns out family owner of house now requires an island worktop /cupboards in the kitchen. In the island 1 x oven and 1 x hob (both electric) and LED lights in kick board. I'm wiring 2 X cooker circuits. I know an induction hob will be installed but don't know the loading. I propose to install 2 x 45A DP switches above the worktop on main wall as per norm. Appliances will be with the 2m rule (if in fact it that rule still exist). My question is, what is the best method / practice to get the cooker cable from switch to island via u/g. Underfloor heating be installed, overall depth of floor is 175mm incl insulation which has not been installed as yet. I was thinking of 6mm 6242Y cable enclosed in some pvc flexible ducting (ploy duct or similar) .The LED lights same way but from a sw/spur.

 

[driverman]

I'm doing a kitchen on thurs and fri this week, has an island too.

He has channelled out a slot about 6" wide and 3" deep, Its going to have pipes in one compartment and a few cables in the other, they will be spaced apart so I would imagine it will be fine.

Property I'm working in, has Block & Slab (is that correct term) Basically solid concrete beams with blocks inserted between them. I'd better not chop the concrete beams, the owner might be a tad upset.

 

[Engineer54]

There are means of providing a safe complying electrical installation for just about every building situation encountered. Sometimes you'll need to think outside the box as they say, but i have yet to find myself in a position of being stumped and unable to find a suitable solution to a site based problem.

Bringing in an electrical supply for a kitchen island with a wet underfloor heating system must have been encountered time and time again throughout the land, so shouldn't be too much of a problem to solve between the relative trades on site....

 

[PEG]

Agreed,the closest spacing i have ever seen,between pipework on an U/F heating system,still leaves room for a cable of sufficient size to power an oil rig! If the floor is Bison block and beam,or similar,as it sounds,provision for entry points is relatively easily achieved BEFORE screeding. Afterwards,breaking out,or coring can bring serious problems. I attended a job with a pal who had built a barn conversion extension,and used block and beam for the lounge and kitchen. The plumbers had core drilled (Hilti diamond rig) for an island sink unit.Months later,the island had cracks around it,and a big crack had appeared around the window lintel 3 meters away. I broke out the air brick to get a look in the void,as only 300mm space. They had core drilled through the middle of a beam,this had fractured and dropped,which explained the movement in the island,but because of its' length,it had levered up the inner course of blockwork where it sat,and lifted it to point where cracks were evident in the bedroom! This was yet another occasion where we got to find out the total and utter waste of time,that the NHBC scheme is...hang on...a scheme not working?...sounds familiar...